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Mustang II Suspension
#1
As I mentioned in my intro, we are installing a Coyote 5.0 in our ’72 Mustang. My dad picked up the Mustang II suspension from Rod & Custom Motorsports Friday on his way to PA. The pictures below represent 3 days of work.

Saturday I used a plasma cutter to cut out the towers, cross member, and eventually the fender aprons. The kit has been pretty straightforward except for repositioning the frame rail on the drivers side. The kit was lacking details so we had to refer to a web site doing a similar build.

Sunday was spent working on the frame rails. The tops of the frame under the shock towers were rusty and had to be repaired.

Once the frame rails were boxed, positioned in the correct location, and level on Monday we were able to weld in the new Coyote cross member and upper control arm / coil over mount.

I spent time today repairing the firewall (Not shown). Hopefully by the end of the week the new fender aprons, doors, and fenders will be installed. Only part of the rear coil over suspension was ready Friday – Pictures to come.

Tools required:
Plasma cutter (Rented)
Mig Welder
Hand Tools
Cut off wheel
Grinder
Clamps
Level(s)


Question: I’m looking to smooth out the front passenger side fender apron (Remove indentation for battery tray). If I do so, I will be forced to eliminate the smaller oval hole in the radiator support. What is this used for? The front end hasn’t been together in years – I assume it’s for battery cooling?? Huh


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Mike
Lancaster, PA
72 Fastback, Restomod
65 Coupe, Restomod

Follow my build on Facebook @ 1972 Mustang Coyote Fastback
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#2
Looks great...keep the updates coming
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#3
Beautiful work!

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#4
Very cool.
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#5
The outer oval is nearly blocked by the headlight body support that uses the welded nut above and below the oval hole. Be sure to leave them intact. I believe the larger hole satisfied the battery cooling.
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#6
updates?
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#7
Progress has been slow the last couple months between work, car shows, and yard work. The coyote 5.0 and TKO600 is in. The engine mounts needed to be moved forward 1” to correctly locate the trans on the Modern Drive Line cross member. Moving it forward earlier would have prevented us from having to locate the master cylinder 1” outward (Originally hit the valve cover). Sad The Ron Davis radiator is in as well as the condenser, AC/Heater box, fly by wire gas pedal, computer, hydraulic clutch, and MDL pedal. March corrected their pulley design to accommodate the 2013 5.0 water pump changes so I’m good to go.

In the works:
- Ordered Long tube headers, x-pipe, and spin tech mufflers. Working on installing the emergency brake cable so I can take it down and have exhaust pipes bent to clear the rear coil overs.
- Ready to test fit the Dakota Digital gauges – They use Cat 5 wires to plug into the computer. If pictures are unclear, it’s because the plastic covers are still on. Very cool setup, we are starting to think this is the first set made.
- Started install rear wildwood disc brakes
- My Dad will be up July 15th – He wants it painted by July 31st, we will see. Wink
- Need to look into air cleaners with mass air sensors – It needs to be 2-3” shorter than a 2013 5.0
- The radiator needs to go back for a quick update. The 5.0 design requires a steam port be added (New info from Ford/Ron Davis – Lessons learned)

Note to future installers: The stock radiator hoses work perfect in our cars. Stock 5.0 heater hoses enter the firewall in the center. Not a problem for use since we used a custom AC/Heater box. We choose to run AC lines in the passenger fender to keep the engine bay clean.


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Mike
Lancaster, PA
72 Fastback, Restomod
65 Coupe, Restomod

Follow my build on Facebook @ 1972 Mustang Coyote Fastback
  Reply
#8
Looking pretty phenomenal there!!!
  Reply
#9
Hey Gayle Force, that is looking great! Keep the updates coming. I'm planning to go with the RC Motorsports Mustang II front end, but will stick with the 351C block. I've got a move coming up in October and I don't know how far along I'll be at that point. I know it won't be running, so I'll be dragging it back to eastern Tennessee, near where I got it.

Keep up the good work!

Ron
Rusty, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.
Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.
El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.
Bubba, my 1994 F150, daily driver
Formerly, a 1973 Ford Mustang Coupe - a work in progress, then a car-b-qued banana.
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#10
Can't wait to see this when it's done
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