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Mustang Build - Take Two!
#21
OMS;281034 Wrote:I tried to answer your PM's but the site keeps saying you have PM's locked out?
Don

Sorry about that, Ithink I found and changed the setting.
[Image: Stang1.jpg]
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#22
Here are some pictures after a visit to the frame machine. This should help make panel changing a whole lot easier.
[Image: P_20161211_131051.jpg]
[Image: P_20161211_131241.jpg]
[Image: P_20161211_131232.jpg]
[Image: P_20161211_131041_1.jpg]
[Image: Stang1.jpg]
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#23
That will be some of the best dollars you spend on your restore. So many do not get the platform right and then nothing fits right and the panels get the blame. Yes some are not so good but I have seen factory panels put on a twisted chassis that could not be made right. Shims do not always make something fit and nothing to shim in the rear.
Great start

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#24
[Image: MSW.png]
Latest acquisition. Used Miller spot welder.
[Image: Stang1.jpg]
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#25
Oh, s@&t's about to get serious! Big Grin
[Image: 1z21rv4.png]

Mike

"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." Tongue

Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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#26
luxstang;287615 Wrote:Oh, s@&t's about to get serious! Big Grin

Talking with the body shop that did the work for me on the frame machine, they use panel adhesive AND spot weld the quarter to the roof. So, that is what I am going to try doing. Best of both worlds. Hopefully the unit still packs a punch. I generally stay away from buying used electric devices but I didn't want to fork over the around $700 on a new one or go the Harbor Freight route which would have cost $170.
[Image: Stang1.jpg]
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#27
computercarguy;287718 Wrote:
luxstang;287615 Wrote:Oh, s@&t's about to get serious! Big Grin

Talking with the body shop that did the work for me on the frame machine, they use panel adhesive AND spot weld the quarter to the roof. So, that is what I am going to try doing. Best of both worlds. Hopefully the unit still packs a punch. I generally stay away from buying used electric devices but I didn't want to fork over the around $700 on a new one or go the Harbor Freight route which would have cost $170.

I have one of those Miller welders. It is actually illegal to use them in N.C. for body repair has to be mig welded. I did weld all the front panels on my 20th. ann mustang with one and then the X wrecked it again. When on the frame machine pulling not a weld broke. You need to do many test welds. It is dependent on how long you hold the trigger. Not long enough and the weld is nothing, too long and you melt it away. I warn you those arms get very hot so be careful. As the copper heats up the resistance changes so let it cool a lot. Clean all the paint and rust off where welding and do samples to get your trigger time right. It should pull a nugget out of the two pieces actually leave a hole from the weld when you tear them apart. That is why they do not allow you to do for repair in body shop you do not have the control they had during production. Even then bad welds get out. I worked in a stamping plant that did automotive stampings and welded assemblies so I am familiar.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#28
Thank you. Great information.
[Image: Stang1.jpg]
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#29
So thinking ahead. I like the BOSS paint scheme but instead of the BOSS 351 decals I was thinking of 351 FORD. Thoughts?
[Image: 351-Mustang.png]
[Image: Stang1.jpg]
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#30
Maybe if you straighten out the "F" and make the "R" match the "B" more?  Like this:


.png   CCGLogo1.png (Size: 29.45 KB / Downloads: 41)

To replace the "BOSS 351" decal on the trunk, maybe just put "MUSTANG" in the same open-style font as the BOSS letters.

Just a thought.
Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.jpg]

See my Frankenstang Album on FB.
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