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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)
Been following your build closely. Awesome job and a lot of neat ideas.
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(10-08-2018, 10:09 AM)tony-muscle Wrote:
(10-07-2018, 09:59 PM)OzCoupe72 Wrote: Interesting you mention the Saginaw style pump
My falcon engine actually came with one and is a factory fit from the very last of the Aussie Cleveland V8s from very late 1983
From memory it uses an earlier bracket but with a bunch of spacers
There is aftermarket set ups available such as this one -https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/af64-4009
A little expensive so will be interesting to see your mod set up

The aftermarket brackets are way overpriced. I ended up using the stock bracket with a couple mods. And yes, you need spacer bushings since the distance between pulley and pump are different.
In your Falcon, can you check which Saginaw pump part number is it? Do you have pictures of the bracket?
Yes they are, will get some photos and post tonight. From memory most Saginaw pumps can be used but will need to change the pulley and the hose connections could be different. My pump is same as 6 cylinder Falcon from same era Kelpro part no KPP107. Bracket was earlier type with spacers. If it helps this bracket may work and is not expensive plus some Aussies put the F series Saginaw pumps on their falcon - https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Power-S...nfo/12842/ - is for a Windsor so might not work?
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I'd love so much to see this beast in action.
Modern trans with this crazy power must really be fantastic.

Tony, you got to find a way to film it on a road and show us how this baby does!

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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(10-09-2018, 05:32 AM)Fabrice Wrote: I'd love so much to see this beast in action.
Modern trans with this crazy power must really be fantastic.

Tony, you got to find a way to film it on a road and show us how this baby does!

I am dealing with some distributor issues as explained in the parallel thread. Once I get my advance figured out I will drive it more. Weather has been terrible here with a lot of rain which doesn't help. I want to drive it as much as possible before the white stuff comes.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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Hi Tony
Not sure if it will help but have posted photos below of Saginaw pump 84DA 3A674A and bracket set up
The bracket could be the same as for earlier C2 pump
   
   
   
   
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(10-09-2018, 05:00 PM)OzCoupe72 Wrote: Hi Tony
Not sure if it will help but have posted photos below of Saginaw pump 84DA 3A674A and bracket set up
The bracket could be the same as for earlier C2 pump

Thanks. I just posted a thread explaining my Saginaw pump adventure:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-adap...ginaw-pump
The bracket solution in your picture uses the same two bolts of mine, but instead of an S bracket in the rear it uses a extension plate for the third bolt in the front

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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Tony,
Sounds like you have a beast for sure.
One concern I have is you said that when you ran the engine outside of the car you found some fine metal in the oil or filter. You also said you found more after engine was in the car and ran. You should never find metal in the oil or filter. If the oil galley, block crank oil holes and everything cleaned like for surgery there should be nothing in the oil. I was looking at a set of Molly coated rod bearings, shiny black, just pulled out of a Pontiac engine after running on strip for a while and not a single scratch on anything. This car turns over 165 mph in 1/4 mile so not loafing. Nothing ever in oil or filter either.
With the pistons and bearings installed how difficult was it to rotate the crankshaft? Did you prime the oil system with a drill motor before cranking over?
One year at Charlotte car show they had a contest for the NASCAR guys to assemble a 351 Cleveland. The two teams I watched I think had four to a team. The engine block was bare when they started heads were together. From start of assembly to a running engine was under 20 min. They had to do one check of oil clearance with plastic. You could for sure tell they had done it before.
If metal keeps showing up I believe I would pull the pan and look at bearings. Can you tell if it is bearing material or maybe casting from cam or lifters?
Want to see your timing tickets soon.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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(10-10-2018, 09:08 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: Tony,
Sounds like you have a beast for sure.
One concern I have is you said that when you ran the engine outside of the car you found some fine metal in the oil or filter. You also said you found more after engine was in the car and ran. You should never find metal in the oil or filter. If the oil galley, block crank oil holes and everything cleaned like for surgery there should be nothing in the oil. I was looking at a set of Molly coated rod bearings, shiny black, just pulled out of a Pontiac engine after running on strip for a while and not a single scratch on anything. This car turns over 165 mph in 1/4 mile so not loafing. Nothing ever in oil or filter either.
With the pistons and bearings installed how difficult was it to rotate the crankshaft? Did you prime the oil system with a drill motor before cranking over?
One year at Charlotte car show they had a contest for the NASCAR guys to assemble a 351 Cleveland. The two teams I watched I think had four to a team. The engine block was bare when they started heads were together. From start of assembly to a running engine was under 20 min. They had to do one check of oil clearance with plastic. You could for sure tell they had done it before.
If metal keeps showing up I believe I would pull the pan and look at bearings. Can you tell if it is bearing material or maybe casting from cam or lifters?
Want to see your timing tickets soon.
David, I will report after the next oil change. Most of the metal were fine particles that basically made the oil look like metallic paint, if that makes sense. I can't tell where they could be from. The few particles that had a size that allowed me to "feel" them did not look consistent with bearing material. I thought that fine metal particles was normal for a new engine. I primed the engine multiple times before starting outside the car and before starting in the car. I even checked couple of the cylinders with a borescope and all looks good. I pulled the distributor yesterday while dealing with the advance issue I had and the gear looks in good shape.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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You could also get an oil analysis done which will determine what metal particles are in the oil. For example if copper or nickel show up that could indicate bearings depending on their material composition. Not usually an expensive test where I'm from.
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