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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)
I cut it out of a 73 parts car I had. It cleaned up well after sand blasting.


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- Mike
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mach71351c;287614 Wrote:I cut it out of a 73 parts car I had. It cleaned up well after sand blasting.

Nicethumb. I need one!


        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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Mach71351c, did you do the cowl install from above or below? I'm repairing a leaky, but not rusted through, cowl vent on my ranchero.

Tony, sorry about the brief hijack.
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basstrix;287618 Wrote:Mach71351c, did you do the cowl install from above or below? I'm repairing a leaky, but not rusted through, cowl vent on my ranchero.

Tony, sorry about the brief hijack.

The baffle was rusted so I cut it out and installed the replacement from the bottom.


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- Mike
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Thanks, I'll have to reconsider my current plan of attack.
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mach71351c;287621 Wrote:
basstrix;287618 Wrote:Mach71351c, did you do the cowl install from above or below? I'm repairing a leaky, but not rusted through, cowl vent on my ranchero.

Tony, sorry about the brief hijack.

The baffle was rusted so I cut it out and installed the replacement from the bottom.

Clever. So technically speaking, one can fix a rusty cowl hat from inside the car without removing the upper cowl half, right? Cut the hat and rusty surroundings and then glue/weld a replacement piece all from inside the car. One could use seam sealer on the outer edge of the replacement piece to seal the seam on the exterior side. This will simplify things a lot. Never thought about it.


        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
tony-muscle;287652 Wrote:
mach71351c;287621 Wrote:
basstrix;287618 Wrote:Mach71351c, did you do the cowl install from above or below? I'm repairing a leaky, but not rusted through, cowl vent on my ranchero.

Tony, sorry about the brief hijack.

The baffle was rusted so I cut it out and installed the replacement from the bottom.

Clever. So technically speaking, one can fix a rusty cowl hat from inside the car without removing the upper cowl half, right? Cut the hat and rusty surroundings and then glue/weld a replacement piece all from inside the car. One could use seam sealer on the outer edge of the replacement piece to seal the seam on the exterior side. This will simplify things a lot. Never thought about it.

That's a pretty good idea if the rust is not too bad! Way better than a wet floor.
Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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That's the situation with my ranchero. It leaks from between the stovepipe and lower flange and I can't find any rust. The current plan is to use a plastic stovepipe sold in those kits they offer. Remove the lower flange (with studs), cut the stovepipe out, clean up the metal and coat with rust bullet, then sandwich the plastic stovepipe between the cowl and lower flange. Attach the lower flange with stainless flathead screws.

Tony, I thought of welding in a patch from below but was concerned about what might happen on the upper surface of the cowl after welding. I think it would burn the coating off and leave bare metal. The adhesive solves that problem.
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basstrix;287696 Wrote:Tony, I thought of welding in a patch from below but was concerned about what might happen on the upper surface of the cowl after welding. I think it would burn the coating off and leave bare metal. The adhesive solves that problem.
You are correct. You could recoat the upper surface of the cowl towards the middle (left) of the car through the upper cowl openings, but not the areas towards the outside of the car (right side).


        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
I am currently working on fixing rust issues in the trunk and inner fenders. As I ready to paint the trunk area I am curious on how the trunk side of the tail light panel it's supposed to look from factory - this is a hard picture to find since it has to be taken from inside the trunk. By no means I am performing a rotisserie restoration, but I would like to approximate as close within my capabilities. After repairs, grinding, cleaning, prepping, I am covering the trunk floor with Rust Bullet, beadliner coating and trunk paint, but I don't know how the inside of the tail light panel is painted, how the center support of the panel is painted and how the lock bracket is painted. Also, if someone has a picture of the trunk seal groove (without seal) where it meets the inside of the trunk it would be appreciated.
Another question, I have seen some tail light panels painted black, was this an option, or just customization?


        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply


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