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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)
#21
Here is a picture of the factory drain hole location for a/c.
[Image: ix89hMfwSNDjj8qAP7z4WQZ-zwGAkmyNrTtCxkTA...31-h293-no]
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#22
tony-muscle;240188 Wrote:Okay, so I am back working in the car. The subframe and floors on the driver's side are all welded in and just needing paint. Next is doing the passenger's side floors.

Today I spent some time working on the dash so I have a few questions:

1. In the radio bay, at the top on the back there are two flap looking things (see arrows in 1st picture below). What are these for? Mine are slightly bent, but, do the originals look like that?

2. The prong that connects to the dashboard gauges (tach, gas, speed) in pin 7 has two wires (right side of prong in 2nd picture). On mine one wire is disconnected. Where would this one go?

3. The 3rd picture shows the drain hose from the evaporator. My A/C is not factory. Where those this hose typically exits the car? In mine, as you can see in the picture, it exits on the right side. Note on the left side of the picture that there is a hole in the floor right under the hose, which almost looks that it should drain there. Is that hole supposed to be there? Right now is just open.

Let's talk about the two wires on the dash cluster connector (pin 7). One of the wires is a resistor wire: a single thread of nichrome wire. It's very hard to crimp a pin around a single wire strand, so Ford decided (very cleverly, in fact) to crimp another standard copper wire along with the resistor wire so that there are numerous threads that get crimped together. So where does that other wire go to? Nowhere! It isn't used for anything except strength at the crimp itself! Amazing, eh? Just leave the wire alone. If you are still uncomfortable, wrap some electrical tape around it. Ford actually buried it in the taped wire bundle.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
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#23
midlife;240260 Wrote:
tony-muscle;240188 Wrote:Okay, so I am back working in the car. The subframe and floors on the driver's side are all welded in and just needing paint. Next is doing the passenger's side floors.

Today I spent some time working on the dash so I have a few questions:

1. In the radio bay, at the top on the back there are two flap looking things (see arrows in 1st picture below). What are these for? Mine are slightly bent, but, do the originals look like that?

2. The prong that connects to the dashboard gauges (tach, gas, speed) in pin 7 has two wires (right side of prong in 2nd picture). On mine one wire is disconnected. Where would this one go?

3. The 3rd picture shows the drain hose from the evaporator. My A/C is not factory. Where those this hose typically exits the car? In mine, as you can see in the picture, it exits on the right side. Note on the left side of the picture that there is a hole in the floor right under the hose, which almost looks that it should drain there. Is that hole supposed to be there? Right now is just open.

Let's talk about the two wires on the dash cluster connector (pin 7). One of the wires is a resistor wire: a single thread of nichrome wire. It's very hard to crimp a pin around a single wire strand, so Ford decided (very cleverly, in fact) to crimp another standard copper wire along with the resistor wire so that there are numerous threads that get crimped together. So where does that other wire go to? Nowhere! It isn't used for anything except strength at the crimp itself! Amazing, eh? Just leave the wire alone. If you are still uncomfortable, wrap some electrical tape around it. Ford actually buried it in the taped wire bundle.

Thank you... that's actually interesting and non-sense from Ford's part. I was scratching my head like what the heck.....




computercarguy;240200 Wrote:Here is a picture of the factory drain hole location for a/c.
[Image: ix89hMfwSNDjj8qAP7z4WQZ-zwGAkmyNrTtCxkTA...31-h293-no]
Thanks for this picture. So in my case the hole that is just under the evaporator drain plug is the one that should be used. I will see if I plug the one in the right now that I am redoing the floor. However, I have another question. Does the hose go from the evaporator through this hole to where? I assume this hole exits on top of the transmission, so how far down does it go? Does anyone have pictures of the actual hose? Since the hose may be in contact with the transmission I then assume the hose has to be high temperature.

Edit: Actually, looking at my picture. The hole near the evaporator is more over the tunnel than yours. I guess I should weld both holes and drill a new one. Can someone give me dimensions so I can properly locate this hole?

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#24
The hose has a little 'S' shape to it and sticks out about an inch underneath. It goes through a grommet in the floor and has a metal plug with a hole in it to let the water through but keep the critters out.

Here is a picture I found at west coast classic cougars' website
[Image: 100022670_(6)-1028.jpg]
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#25
(08-26-2015, 08:35 PM)computercarguy Wrote: The hose has a little 'S' shape to it and sticks out about an inch underneath. It goes through a grommet in the floor and has a metal plug with a hole in it to let the water through but keep the critters out.

Here is a picture I found at west coast classic cougars'

Thanks... I see it is available from various suppliers. I think the best is that i get one and then mark where the hole should go. I will weld the other two holes.


1971 M-code Mach 1

Any takers in regards to my question about the flap looking things in the stereo bay. They are more like plastic molded rectangles. Please see picture.

1971 M-code Mach 1

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#26
I believe they are just wiring harness guards. They were not present in my car

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#27
I keep seeing these wires at the rear of my engine by the transmission and two of these connectors are open. There is nothing connected. One is green and one is black. Any ideas what these are for? See pictures. As a reference the picture is taken from under the car and you can see the transmission's kickdown.
These cars have so many open connectors that sometimes I don't know if they are meant that way or if I have something missing.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#28
Did a compression test today. I performed the test with the engine cold and with the carb's butterfly closed. Now that I come up to the computer I am reading the test should be done with the engine warm and butterfly open. I don't know what the difference would be. Well, in any case, I got 140 psi in all cylinders except one at 135 and another at 145 psi. Compression level reached within 5 strokes.

I also spent sometime under the car checking the engine casting numbers. It took me about an hour until I decided to loosen the starter. Once I moved the starter s little I was able to see the last number.
The casting # is: D0AE-L
And the date code, which I had already reported is: 0L17 (Nov.17, 1970)
So even though the block's s/n does not seem to match, at least the block casting matches my "M" code from December 1970.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#29
I am on the last stretch of replacing the floor pans. More details to come soon in my floor thread.

However, I have a few question regarding gaps around windows and tail sheetmetal. I am posting pictures since it is easier to see than explain. My main question is if these gaps are from factory or indicate that some work was done to the car. What can I do to fix the gaps around the windows? Do you caulk it Smile I may even have some surface rust at the bottom of the window channel. I guess I don't want too much of a gap here so to avoid water sitting in there.

Pictures:
1. Tail, by trunk
2. Windshield (upper corner_
3. Quarter panel window
4. Rear window (upper corner)


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
               

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#30
The first pic by the tail looks like there may have been some mud work in there??

The rest of the pics look just like my car. I have a few gaps around those areas too...... not sure if they are suppose to be there but just wanted to let you know you are not alone! Wink

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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