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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)
(04-26-2019, 02:00 PM)tony-muscle Wrote:
(04-26-2019, 12:54 PM)Don C Wrote: Don has all 4 in a set
http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_p...itemid=751

Perfect. One more project to the list. Hey, this is the first project in Page 12 of the list.

I am sure glad i didnt draw up a list. It would have made for daunting reading. Though once you reach that mid point theres a sense the finish line coming into view Wink

Steve
1971 Grandé
  Reply
For those readers that may have a Retrosound stereo. I installed mine a few years ago but I always had this nagging issue that I couldn't play USB music when the car was on. All pointed out to electronic interference so I didn't do much troubleshooting because I knew my spark plug wires were old. Fast forward two years and I finally replaced the wires with Accels's 8mm. The problem persisted so I just tried a simple test. Since the USB cable was long I had coiled it behind the radio. I uncoiled it and run it on the floor along the console away from any other wires. That simple solution did it. It was working with no problems. I then run it between the console and the carpet and it worked great. The key is not to run the USB cable next to any other wires. It was very close to the antenna wire so that may have been the culprit. As an added measure I clipped one of those ferrite RFI suppression filters to the USB cable. I also clipped one to the the positive wire to the radio. This is one more issue scratched off the list.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
(05-04-2019, 06:34 PM)Don C Wrote: Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.

Interesting point that you bring up here with the coil of excess wire. In this case it was a USB wire that I can't cut and patch. In other cases, if you didn't want to cut it, what would be the best way to deal with excess wire. I have couple places in the car where I have coiled excess wire and now I am thinking about it.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
Try to meander it around or make a larger loop, 10 or 12 inches in diameter. Don't wrap it around metal.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
(05-04-2019, 06:34 PM)Don C Wrote: Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.

In regards to the RFI filter and loss of bass, since the filter is in the USB cable which is passing a digital signal, it shouldn't affect sound quality, right?

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
That's a good point, and you're correct, it shouldn't.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
(08-25-2017, 12:54 AM)tony-muscle Wrote: Installed this back up camera:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M260I3Z/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: the link is not working anymore. The camera is an AUTOVOX T1400W

Good overall and easy installation. Did not have to drill a hole or cut any wires. The only issue is that the mirror vibrates more than I would prefer. I am working on trying to improve this issue.
Some may not like the look of the double mirror, but you can't really notice unless you look from the side. Most people won't even notice.

[Image: 20170823_232913.jpg]

[Image: 20170823_232933.jpg]

[Image: 20170823_233022.jpg]

Update on this Backup Camera. Since the backup camera mirror attaches to the current mirror it increases the weight by a good amount, which results in vibration and the mirror button coming off the windshield. I tried gluing the button with all kind of different products with no success. After the fourth time I decided it was time to move on Shootself . Now I am trying the same Auto-Vox camera but with its own mirror that glues to the windshield. It is the upgrade of the one I had installed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J863EI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was able to use the camera and wires already installed. I just replaced the transmitter with the new one and all is working well. Since it is lighter let's see if it will stay attached to the windshield and hopefully reduce the vibrations. 
I don't want to give up the idea of having the backup camera in the rearview mirror. I think it is practical and I have been using it all the time.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
So the project these past two weeks was to improve audio. I have a Retrosound Hermosa player, with a Retrosound dashpad speaker and 6x9 Kicker speakers in the back. The Kickers are great speakers but because I have a fold down rear seat I am using portable enclosures that are not that large, which doesn't take advantage of the Kicker's bass potential. The dashpad speaker is 4x6 and with zero bass. The sound in the front is terrible and to take advantage of the rears I have to raise the volume way too much to my like. I realized that I needed to add a subwoofer in the front. Didn't want to crowd the behind rear seat area much more than the two current speaker enclosures. I found that the only space I could see open in the front to fit a sub was on the passenger side's kick panel, tucked behind the kick panel and the vent box. The space is small and after searching through many options and sizes I decided on the Kenwood KSC-SW11. This is an enclosed self powered 5x8 sub. I was not expecting to have a huge boooom coming out of it, but just some good bass to fill what's lacking from the dashpad speakers. I didn't want to add door speakers either. It was a tight cramped fit, but it went well. The only mod was to customize the supplied mounting plate and drilling two holes for screws and one hole to get the wiring to the battery. The sub is well hidden. It am very impressed with the sound and power. I am using it with the sub volume at about 25-35% and fills the missing bass perfectly. I am very happy with the investment and fit.

Before putting on the panel:
[Image: 20190611-232037.jpg]


After the panel:
[Image: Inked20190611-232857-LI.jpg]

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
(12-14-2018, 01:16 AM)tony-muscle Wrote:
(12-13-2018, 03:13 PM)jeff8877 Wrote: Here you go...you will also need the special clips but they sell them now...

https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_musta...s-set.html

https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-radiator-air-deflector-used-with-26-wide-radiator.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=1o4&scid=scplp44-48391-1&sc_intid=44-48391-1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo8jgBRAVEiwAJUXKqNnVy0d1GRHq4BQ3S15ceOfLZo3u3gbqpkIQNBYdc_1YhTB7RPwVAxoCJLwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thank you. I found the old piece from my car. Since my radiator is thicker I needed to modify it. Now that gap at the top is taken care of. The next gap is at the vertical edges of the shroud.
I closed the vertical gaps between shroud and radiator with an ACDelco radiator seal, p/n 13269462. I had to cut it to fit and use some ingenuity to fasten it, but now the gap is mostly gone.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
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