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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)
#11
I just figured that the Pertronix III distributor may be a bit too tall for the Ram Air filter. However, after measurements I think I can raise the filter about one more inch, but will have to eliminate the seal between the filter and Ram Air plenum. This may give me enough clearance to fit the distributor. I can eventually find a custom flat seal or similar.
I am thinking of using one of these spacers to raise the carb: http://www.summitracing.com/search/produ...4294949625
Based on my first measurements the Pertronix III distributor is about 2.5" taller than the stock. The distributor should fit after raising the filter, but may have some space issues with the wiring/boots.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#12
Well, I ended up purchasing most of the items on the list this weekend taking advantage of some good offers and discounts.
My biggest unknown was with suspension items, so I opted to go with Moog's lower arm and upper ball joint. I decided to keep my upper arm and just replace the ball joint. I kind of like the idea of being able to replace the ball joint with just 3 bolts - the newer ones have the ball joint attached via rivets. I will remove the arm anyhow to check things and replace bushings.
This weekend's savings will go to purchase floor pans, which was an unexpected expense. When investigating the condition of the inside this weekend I found rusted pans. I started this thread about it:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-muscl...ans-advice
I ended up purchasing the Dynacorn floor panels.
Now, let the fun begin. I have a lot of work hours ahead of me this winter.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#13
An update. I did not work too much in the car during the holidays, but I am back. Accomplished to date:
-I am still spending most of my time fixing the rusted floors. Today I finally got the driver's side seat riser out. It has some rust so I will be repairing it instead of buying a new one and needing to trim it. More details here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-muscl...ice?page=6
-Also cut the rear floor panel out.
-Removed steering wheel, but won't install the new one until the floors are finished.
-Got the instrument panel down. Sending the tach, fuel, ammeter, oil and water temp gauges to Rocketman for tuning, modernizing and converting the amps to voltmeter (http://www.rccinnovations.com/)
-Got the steering pump out.

Next in the proximate agenda:
-Take steering gear out and send it together with the pump to Lee's for rebuild. Here I see the struggle will be dealing with the Pitman arm. I don't want to damage it specially as I disconnect it from the middle steering rod. I don't want to damage the rubber boot or bushing.
-Finish taking out driver's side floor.
-I won't deal with the passenger's side of the floor until I am not done with the driver's side.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#14
Looking forward to seeing some pictures when you start working on it again.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#15
Hi that's a good project! Regards DK73

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73whistling
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#16
Works keeps moving, but slow.
-Took out steering gear box and sent it to Lee with pump
-Took out all the steering links
-Got gauges back from RCCI.
-Ordered some led bulbs for the instruments and internal lighting from superbrightleds.com
-Still working on floor pans. Work is going real slow. It has been tricky to work on the driver's side pan, specially in the front area under the dash. It is cramped down there. I got all the spot welds out between the pan and the rocker panel, and between the firewall and panel. Even though I am replacing part of the firewall I wanted to be as neat as possible. I may leave a strip of original sheet metal at the bottom of the firewall. I could use this as additional support for the floor pan by spot welding to it. Or maybe not a good idea.... Next, I will finish cutting the firewall end and then get all the spot welds between subframe and floor.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#17
When I did my floor pans I did the same thing and left a small strip of the firewall across the front. I overlapped that about 1 inch and spot/rosette welded it about every 1 1/2". The rest of the pan I butt welded to look a little nicer from underneath. Once the lap joint on front firewall is done and seam sealed its hard to tell its not factory to the untrained eye.
Keep up the good work.....slow work is better than NO work!!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#18
Go Time;204056 Wrote:I've done the tin man sub frame connectors, I think I got them from Jegs because they were a bit cheaper and free shipping than direct from Tin Man.. Go figure. I like them because they look semi stock with the square tubing.

I am in the process of installing the Tin Man subframe connectors. I can't tell how far back I should install them. The instructions and video seem to talk about 4"-6" into the front subframe rail. I took this picture showing the approximate location but as you can see, it interferes with the plug on the rear subframe rail. I don't think I want to weld them there. If I move them forward then I will be over the torque box instead than over the rear subframe rail. Do you have any pictures or pointers of where yours are located?


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#19
tony-muscle;204989 Wrote:I just figured that the Pertronix III distributor may be a bit too tall for the Ram Air filter. However, after measurements I think I can raise the filter about one more inch, but will have to eliminate the seal between the filter and Ram Air plenum. This may give me enough clearance to fit the distributor. I can eventually find a custom flat seal or similar.
I am thinking of using one of these spacers to raise the carb: http://www.summitracing.com/search/produ...4294949625
Based on my first measurements the Pertronix III distributor is about 2.5" taller than the stock. The distributor should fit after raising the filter, but may have some space issues with the wiring/boots.

I went down that route. I really wanted that dizzy/coil combo.
I did have to do some custom work to make it fit with "Don's" ram air filter base. My suggestion is to use an aftermarket filter base or change dizzy. No way around it.

I can send you pictures of the setup.
(car is getting the aod upgrade at the moment but should have it back in a couple of weeks.)

[Image: Image3.png]
Jim
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#20
Okay, so I am back working in the car. The subframe and floors on the driver's side are all welded in and just needing paint. Next is doing the passenger's side floors.

Today I spent some time working on the dash so I have a few questions:

1. In the radio bay, at the top on the back there are two flap looking things (see arrows in 1st picture below). What are these for? Mine are slightly bent, but, do the originals look like that?

2. The prong that connects to the dashboard gauges (tach, gas, speed) in pin 7 has two wires (right side of prong in 2nd picture). On mine one wire is disconnected. Where would this one go?

3. The 3rd picture shows the drain hose from the evaporator. My A/C is not factory. Where those this hose typically exits the car? In mine, as you can see in the picture, it exits on the right side. Note on the left side of the picture that there is a hole in the floor right under the hose, which almost looks that it should drain there. Is that hole supposed to be there? Right now is just open.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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