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Moog upper control arm
#1
Has anyone on experienced this? I'm part way into the drudgery task of replacing front suspension on '71 Mach 1. I purchased the Moog RK621369 Upper Control Arm Assembly, and the bolts that fit into the chassis (engine bay) are too short to thread a nut onto. Bolts in my old upper control arm were longer, but I cannot interchange the bolts because they're pressed in. Moog says this is the right part. Dangit, I'm stuck. Any advice from the good 71/73 people here?
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#2
Just get replacement bolts. I believe they simply slide out of the tubular cross-piece. We had to do that on a friend's 66 Mustang to get the caster/camber correct. We never did find out why the standard length bolts did not work.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#3
Do these need to be grade 8 ? Even if not, I'd probably use Grade 8, can't be that much more expensive.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#4
(06-09-2018, 06:48 PM)midlife Wrote: Just get replacement bolts.  I believe they simply slide out of the tubular cross-piece. We had to do that on a friend's 66 Mustang to get the caster/camber correct.  We never did find out why the standard length bolts did not work.
How'd you get the bolts out? these are pressed in, and I fear damaging the control arm if I use the BIG hammer on them.
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#5
If they are swedged, use a hammer on the threaded in and put the head side inside a socket, much like removing a u-joint from a yoke.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#6
(06-09-2018, 08:43 PM)midlife Wrote: If they are swedged, use a hammer on the threaded in and put the head side inside a socket, much like removing a u-joint from a yoke.

yep, wasn't as difficult as I made it out in my head to be.  Got the upper in. . . now wrestling with the coil spring! such fun!.  thx for the tips.
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#7
i know your pain.. i did a complete susp on my '66 fairlane yrs ago.. spring on pass side dropped right in... the drivers side was manufactured by the devil.. took an hour and extra hands.
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#8
You should be using a coil spring compressor to put the springs in. DO NOT use air wrench to run the compressor bolt up and down can cause big issues. Your local parts supplier should have them to borrow. It is not difficult at all if you have the right tools.
It is odd that they went to a much shorter bolt for no reason.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#9
(06-10-2018, 10:08 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: You should be using a coil spring compressor to put the springs in. DO NOT use air wrench to run the compressor bolt up and down can cause big issues. Your local parts supplier should have them to borrow. It is not difficult at all if you have the right tools.
It is odd that they went to a much shorter bolt for no reason.
David

yep, thanks. I borrowed a coil spring compressor from Adv Auto to remove - still scary. But, I've found getting the spring seated on the perch to be less than accommodating. I'm on my third pass at it - and I've only tackled the driver's side so far. Definitely testing my patience though. Thx
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#10
(06-10-2018, 11:26 AM)Phisto Wrote:
(06-10-2018, 10:08 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: You should be using a coil spring compressor to put the springs in. DO NOT use air wrench to run the compressor bolt up and down can cause big issues. Your local parts supplier should have them to borrow. It is not difficult at all if you have the right tools.
It is odd that they went to a much shorter bolt for no reason.
David

yep, thanks. I borrowed a coil spring compressor from Adv Auto to remove - still scary. But, I've found getting the spring seated on the perch to be less than accommodating. I'm on my third pass at it - and I've only tackled the driver's side so far. Definitely testing my patience though. Thx

Funny how I always found it safer to leave the coil spring alone and let the shock keep it in place.  I remove the upper spindle connection at the ball joint and drop the spindle out of the way.  Remove the 2 spring perch bolts and the two shock tower nuts and the upper arm will slide out/.  Yes.  It is supposedly safer to use the spring compressor but this has always worked for me
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