71-73 Swag

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Mike from Maryland with a worn down 73
It's been a long while since I last logged in so I thought I'd re-introduce myself. I'm Mike, 24, living in central Maryland. I've got a neglected 1973 coupe with a 302. It's been sitting idle for way too long and I want to restore it. It just seems theres so many things wrong with it, I have absolutely no idea where to begin. The few automotive friends I had all moved away in the last year, so I was hoping you guys could give me some on advice on where to start. The good new is it turns on and drives, but iit's sluggish and rough. The suspension and steering is crap. The engine leaks oil like a sieve. I had a guy do paint and body work years ago and he did a shoddy job. With the help of a friend I rebuilt the transmission four years ago and that's about the only thing that's working as it should. Thanks for your help in advanced. I'm planning on joining the local Mustang club but in the meantime, I'd love to hear from any of you all.

-Mike W.

[Image: 11013577_10153203901288850_2319150977818393447_n.jpg]
Welcome Mike ️ Regards Lars DK73 Denmark Northern Part of Europe

Sendt fra min F8331 med Tapatalk

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73whistling
Welcome from France.
You'll find here lot of nice guys who can help you in your restoration projet.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
Welcome back from Colorado

Welcome back from Iowa.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, 750 CFM double pumper, Holley Street Dominator intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
Howdy from Phoenix. I would start with a compression test on the engine and if it has decent and consistent compression on all cyls then I would do a tune up. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor to start. If you are running old school points I would convert to electronic (lots of options). But I would go ahead and slap one more set of points in before I did just to get a good baseline. Also go ahead an replace the PCV valve, they are cheap. Once you have the ignition replaced then check for vacuum leaks on any hoses. THEN you can consider messing with the carb. Depending on how long it sat and how dry the carb got it might be gunked up a bit or have some leaking seals but get the ignition stuff done first.

The paint job doesn't look bad in the picture so next step would be suspension. The rear springs are pretty inexpensive and easy to replace. A front end replacement is a bit more complicated but something any shade tree mechanic can handle. Do the front suspension and check or replace the rag joint before replacing/rebuilding the steering box.

Depending on your plans for the car you can go with more original front suspension parts or upgrade. There are several vendors and kits that replace most everything. One upgrade I always recommend is to go with aftermarket strut rods that include a Hiem joint. The factory strut rods are the worst part of an otherwise okay factory front suspension.

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
Welcome from TriCities WA.

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

Welcome! I like how your car looks :-)
(04-08-2017, 01:57 PM)Sadly, it looks like this will be the first repair. Happened this afternoon. The bumper broke off. Its got me reconsidering just how bad the frame is and if this car is worth fixing Wrote: [Image: 17858895_10155167468348850_765901634_o.jpg]

[Image: 17838389_10155167468293850_788611447_o.jpg]

free photo website hosting
Hey Mike,

Welcome back!!

I can give you my opinion on where to start.  I like to have my car running and safe to drive while I'm doing other work on  it - when practical.

So for me, unless there are structural issues - I'd work the engine, brakes, steering, electrical until they are operating safely.  Suspension would be next.

Interior, paint and the like would follow up.

My 73 Sports Roof car ran like crap when I first got it, stuck valve and then been a push rod...so I sent the heads out for an overhaul all but it needed floor panels, important for structure so I handled those before driving it any further.  It drove fine...until it didn't...developing a bottom end knock.

Worked on engine bay, interior while the engine was out.



Tucson, Az
1973 SportsRoof
351C bored .040
Crank .020  and Stock cam
Flattop pistons
Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE
Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

[Image: NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg]
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