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MIG Welding - Go for it OR Leave it to the Pros
#31
Not bad. keep up the good work. But if that's sheetmetal, you want to practice doing spot welds, not continuous beads.  On sheetmetal you will end up just blowing through it. Get some metal a little bit thicker, and make sure you get it clean clean!  Then practice running beads.  You don't want to just run your torch in a straight line down the seam of the buttjoint. The weld puddle will want to hump in the middle as it cools. You want to whip your arc onto each piece as you weld. Make a U shape with your arc onto each side of the seam with the seam being the middle of your U. Also you want to push your puddle with a mig welder not drag it. With a mig welder you will have to move fairly fast compared to stick welding. Keep practicing and keep posting up questions and pics. Took me years to get really good at it. I have been teaching my son since he was 6. He's 10 now and is getting pretty good. I even had him help weld up grandpas trailer last summer. Just remember practice practice practice!!

[Image: phone_pics_614.jpg]

[Image: phone_pics_613.jpg]

[Image: phone_pics_615.jpg]

Some other projects.
[Image: phone_pics_425.jpg]

[Image: phone_pics_488.jpg]

[Image: phone_pics_490.jpg]


Next project he wants to weld!!  He gathered up parts I had laying around.

[Image: phone_pics_494.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#32
Hope you didn't need them parts.....
  Reply
#33
[quote pid='313881' dateline='1517579016']

Next project he wants to weld!!  He gathered up parts I had laying around.

[Image: phone_pics_494.jpg]
[/quote]

Haha...Nice!  There is a guy here in Sarasota, FL who lost his job during the real estate crash and he started his own business called Tube Dudes.  He's made a killing basically welding and painting these metal tube dudes (mailbox holders, sign holders,etc).  Also this project your son wants to do is pretty cool.  I've seen stuff like that on sale in stores and it's not cheap!  Tell him to keep up the good work.

OK...so with mig welding you want to push huh?  I was definitely pulling...  So if I'm welding a body panel I would just do quick spot welds all the way around?  Would I then go back and do continuous bead welds to close it up or just leave it and use some sort of panel adhesive everywhere else?
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#34
What gauge would you recommend I use for body panel patches? Also how about for the fender apron section?
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#35
(02-02-2018, 11:11 AM)ITMike5.0 Wrote: [quote pid='313881' dateline='1517579016']

Next project he wants to weld!!  He gathered up parts I had laying around.

[Image: phone_pics_494.jpg]

Haha...Nice!  There is a guy here in Sarasota, FL who lost his job during the real estate crash and he started his own business called Tube Dudes.  He's made a killing basically welding and painting these metal tube dudes (mailbox holders, sign holders,etc).  Also this project your son wants to do is pretty cool.  I've seen stuff like that on sale in stores and it's not cheap!  Tell him to keep up the good work.

OK...so with mig welding you want to push huh?  I was definitely pulling...  So if I'm welding a body panel I would just do quick spot welds all the way around?  Would I then go back and do continuous bead welds to close it up or just leave it and use some sort of panel adhesive everywhere else?
[/quote]


Definitely push when welding a continuous bead.  For sheetmetal, you do a tack, move several inches do another tack, moveseveral inches do another tack. you keep repeating this process all over the panel until it is completely filled in with weld. Yes it takes a lot of time! But if you try to do toom any tacks in one spot or too close together you can easily warp a panel.
Heres a quarter panel I was welding.
Tacked in place
[Image: phone_pics_143.jpg]

Keep tacking till it looks like this
[Image: phone_pics_144.jpg]

photo host sites

Then grind flush..... but move around a lot with the grinder to avoid warpage. Also good idea to cool the area with a wet rag as you tack and grind.

[Image: phone_pics_145.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#36
OK, so tack weld all the way around until it looks continuous. I see you did the tail panel too. Are those sheet metal screws just holding it in place until you do those welds all the way around? For that panel you did spot welds correct?
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#37
(02-02-2018, 11:56 AM)ITMike5.0 Wrote: OK, so tack weld all the way around until it looks continuous.  I see you did the tail panel too.  Are those sheet metal screws just holding it in place until you do those welds all the way around?  For that panel you did spot welds correct?

Yep you got it.  I use self tapping sheetmeteal screws to hold everything in place. Also use a combination of small c clamps, vise grip c clamps, magnets, ect. You don't want to tack it at all until you are 100% happy with where it is.  Sheetmetal screws make it easy to adjust and move before tacking.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
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