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Megasquirt 2 v3 on 351c
#1
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
Pg 1-3 planning, mild setup and talk.
Pg 4 Pictures, POST 34 http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-megas...1#pid26741 Contains detailed setup and tuning info.








I've spent my summer researching and saving/ spending money on this project. I have a 73 mach 1 with a 351c, and it's been sitting since I picked up my crossfire as a daily. The crossfire does everything better than my mustang, its faster, handles better, is safer, more reliable, better on gas etc. I figured its about time to do something about that and started getting a taste for turbos. I realized a blow-through carb wouldn't cut it for my application, because I would like to be able to daily drive the car and drive through NYC to Englishtown, race and drive home. Megasquirt is probably the cheapest way to go injected, but there is alot of learning involved, which I love about it. Enough with the BS though Tongue..

So far I bought the DIY MS2 kit from Glen's Garage with a wiring harness, stim, Coolant Liquid Temp (CLT) sensor w/ pigtail, Inlet Air Temp (IAT) sensor with pigtail and relay board. (~$500). I bought a prototyping board from radio shack (Blank circuit board to make circuits with) and a bunch of resistors to practice with (~$5). Once I felt comfortable soldering I put together the main board following most of the instructions Wink. After fixing my mistakes, I started hoarding parts.

Current Setup:

-MS2 V3 w/ mostly assembled harness and relay board.
-8 Bosch / Ford design 3 low impedance injectors. (Bosch PN 0280155715 Ford PN F50-E85A)
-GM style CLT and IAT
-MSD ready to run distributor and 6A box.

Megasquirt will use the orange wire off the distributor to sense engine position. The Hall Effect circuit is used on MS using the points (no coil connection) circuit. MS will control the ignition via the white wire on the MSD box. A standard MSD with the purple and green wires uses the VR circuit in megasquirt.

-2000 Northstar throttle body with throttle linkage removed and re-welded to allow the cable to pull from the back. (Same as LS1 TB but backwards for FWD) It may not make sense, but the junkyard had one for $75 complete with TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IAC (Idle Air Control) solenoid and it is 74mm stock.
-Universal injector harnesses and bungs
-Weiand X-celerator single plane (PN 7516) Machined using a CNC mill.
Can be done on a vertical mill (Bridgeport). A large block of aluminum was used under the manifold in order to clamp it down to the bed of the mill. The block was tapped in 2 places in order to thread in studs. The studs were used to hold down an aluminum bar across the top of the manifold.
-36" 1/2" Universal fuel rail cut in half and CNC machined. We made a program in Mastercam to cut pockets for the injectors. The spacing of the injector bungs on the manifold is identical to that of the rail.
-Edelbrock TB to 4150 intake elbow (PN 3848).
-Edelbrock adapter plate (PN 2737)
-Bosch "044" fuel pump (300 lph)(PN 0580 254 044)
-Aeromotive -6 return and boost reference style fuel pressure regulator. (PN 13109)
-Aeromotive -10 100 micron fuel filter before the pump
- -8 Russell fuel filter after the pump (PN 650103)
-New fuel tank and straps to weld a sump (Comp Engineering 4041 1/2" NPT outets) and -6 fitting for the return line.
-15' of -8 pushlock hose (feed) and 15' -6 (return) using all black fittings Smile.
-AEM wideband o2 gauge/ controller (PN 30-4100)
-Electric fan controlled by MS' FIDLE pin and relay
-Dell Latitude D610 from eBay, nice cheap computer that I bought just for tuning but I'm getting alot of use out of. It was $250 shipped as a refurb from Blair Technologies Group.
-Mr Gasket fuel pump block off plate (1517)
I still need a couple things but thats the bulk of it. There's no point in sharing what I paid for some of the stuff because I got it at a discounted rate from the store where I work, I don't know what they retail for Wink. I will get it running NA first then eventually move on to a turbo setup when I'm comfortable tuning the car.
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#2
Do you ever check out the F.A.S.T System????????
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#3
(07-30-2010, 06:28 PM)MachSport72 Wrote: Do you ever check out the F.A.S.T System????????

It's nice but it is alot of money, and not really what I was looking for. Their SBC 550hp kit retails for $3800 which is the cheapest one. They don't make a setup for a cleveland anyway. I spent about $1400 so far and I have alot more than the FAST kit comes with. If I went TBI, I would have saved about $350 My fuel system should be good for the same power, if not more. MS has alot more options as far as tuning and adding things down the road. I like the fact that I need a laptop to tune it. I wanted to learn more about the stuff moreso than bolt something on and go. Also I'm what they call thick-headed lol.
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#4
if you want more hp all I did was put a cam in it. stock heads {4v closed chamber } stock intake,pistons and floater connecting rods quick fuel q series 750 cfm carb and a petronix ignition system .i will be at at least 450 hp on pump gas .put an air gap intake and you are over 500. Of course if gas mileage is an issue then it is a different story,but as far as power goes you can get a 351c to some serious power with some basic parts.get a set of AFD heads and you won't believe the improvement. they claim you can get 680 hp out of the box.

{i know. Maybe a bit of an exaggeration there } but these heads are the best you can get for a Cleavland.Check them out .here is the link.

http://www.ausfordparts.com/afd4v.html
Eric


[Image: a58hgh.jpg]
DRIVE IT DON'T STORE IT!
  Reply
#5
(07-30-2010, 07:14 PM)72fastback Wrote: if you want more hp all I did was put a cam in it. stock heads {4v closed chamber } stock intake,pistons and floater connecting rods quick fuel q series 750 cfm carb and a petronix ignition system .i will be at at least 450 hp on pump gas .put an air gap intake and you are over 500. Of course if gas mileage is an issue then it is a different story,but as far as power goes you can get a 351c to some serious power with some basic parts.get a set of AFD heads and you won't believe the improvement. they claim you can get 680 hp out of the box.

{i know. Maybe a bit of an exaggeration there } but these heads are the best you can get for a Cleavland.Check them out .here is the link.

http://www.ausfordparts.com/afd4v.html

I've been looking into aluminum heads, AFD's are nice.. But heads and a cam would probably make 400 or so with my current setup getting 8 or so mpg. I want to do a turbo setup because it is very streetable and is adjustable. 8-10 psi should make 500-600 hp while getting 20+ mpg under normal driving conditions. 800-1000 would be feasible but not with my current budget.
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#6
well like like i said in the last post if mpg are important but I live in canada so I only drive my car for a short time compared to you guy's in the states .So I don't really care what it will cost me .I like the cam setups because they sound bad-ass and I get the hp I need . I am pretty much new to the whole muscle /pony car thing this being my first one at 38 years old. So I am trying to keep it old school I guess hahaha. Good luck with your project maybe in a few years when I'm sick of paying for gas I will come back to this thread Big Grin
Eric


[Image: a58hgh.jpg]
DRIVE IT DON'T STORE IT!
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#7
damn len.. you and your discounted speed shop rates. car sounds like its actually gonna be pretty cool... when are you trying to get it done by?
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#8
(07-30-2010, 10:00 PM)72fastback Wrote: well like like i said in the last post if mpg are important but I live in canada so I only drive my car for a short time compared to you guy's in the states .So I don't really care what it will cost me .I like the cam setups because they sound bad-ass and I get the hp I need . I am pretty much new to the whole muscle /pony car thing this being my first one at 38 years old. So I am trying to keep it old school I guess hahaha. Good luck with your project maybe in a few years when I'm sick of paying for gas I will come back to this thread Big Grin

Hey man, different strokes for different folks lol.. I love the sound of a huge cam and loud exhaust but the sound of a turbo v8 makes my pants slightly tighter. It could just be that I want my mach 1 to sound like a jet Smile.

71 stang Wrote:damn len.. you and your discounted speed shop rates. car sounds like its actually gonna be pretty cool... when are you trying to get it done by?

Yeah, I put it under executioner's racing lol. If all goes well, which I'm 90% sure it won't, it should be running injected by September. I'm really just waiting on the intake manifold and fuel rail machine work then I can put it together. I really just need some fittings and small stuff which I'll pick up when I work tommorow. I'll start getting the turbo stuff over the next year or so.
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#9
Well I drove the car out of the garage for the 1st time in a year.. It's not fuel injected yet, I'm still waiting till school starts for the manifold. The car should be together in the first couple weeks of August.

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#10
PROGRESS!!!! Big GrinBig GrinBig GrinBig GrinBig GrinBig GrinTongue

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Machining the manifold and rails was easy, all you need is a CNC machineCool

Luckily my uncle has a machine shop and was kind enough to let me waste his time making car parts Smile. We used a machined block of aluminum to rest the manifold on, then tapped the block for 2 studs so we can ultimately bolt the manifold to the alum. block. We made sure the manifold was straight using a dial indicator along the machined surface that mates to the head. Once the manifold was secured to the bed of the CNC the rest was easy.

We cut a 3/4" hole in each intake runner by centering a 3/4" end mill on each runner and recording the X-values (linear distance in Left and Right direction) between each one while keeping the Y values the same (Up and Down Direction). When it came to do the other side of the manifold, we centered the mill on the 1st runner then just used the previous X-values to ensure the spacing between each port would be the same.

To make the rails, we made a CNC program using Mastercam which cut 0.530" holes in the fuel rail using the same X-values as the manifold so there are no alignment problems when it's time to put everything together.

Now I just need the bungs welded in Smile
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