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master engine rebuild kit?
#1
Hey all,
Another noob question here. Just trying to get some direction before i start spending money.

I have a 429 block, pistons, crank, and D0VE heads... all taken apart. Came with a 73 Mustang i am trying to put together. (also have a c6 for it)

I don't have a ton of cash, and am leaning on NOT putting a big block in this car to save money and just going with a 351.

My question is this, if i took the block to a machine shop to have it cleaned/inspected/milled etc (which i found one that can do the block for 255+parts.. the block looks REALLY REALLY good as is) could i as a trade tree mechanic with a garage and a engine stand order something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Engine-Re...1018198263

and put it together? I know that's sort of a subjective question, but have semi decent mechanic skill just never rebuilt a engine before. Is there work that the engine shop would do that i am not going to be able to due to lack of very expensive tools? I don't mind taking my time, reading, and being stupid careful with it but I need to be realistic as i cant spend tons of cash needlessly.

Thanks for any advice.
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#2
in short yes, I would be careful about the brands of parts a kit like that has in it. There is a how to rebuild your big block ford book that you need to buy. I cannot remember the author right now. $255 for a cleaning and boring the block is no too bad, but what about the heads? Do they need valves, you will need to match springs to cam, valve guides, valve job and such can get pricy but nothing you would not need to do to a small block too. If the machine shop assembles the heads for you the only real special tool you will need is a torque wrench and piston ring compressor which can be rented. The last thing is are you going to balance the rotating assembly, I would recommend it, I pay about 150 for a balancing plus Mallory if they got to add weight.
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#3
If i go this route, I am going to have the heads worked, not gonna do those myself and have yet to price that out. I don't think it should be too expensive but not sure

I will look for that book if i do it. Just trying to decide if its something i can handle or not.

Thanks.
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#4
I bought a master rebuild kit from Summit for a 351w I rebuilt for an f100 I'm building. I had never built an engine before either. I bought a book and went for it.
The engine shop charged me $500 to degrease, pressure test and bore and hone the block. They also pressed in the new cam bearings and put the new pistons on the rods for me. They needed the new pistons to fit them.

When it came to the heads they charges another $500 to manga flux and machine the heads, new valve guides, 8 new intake valves.

Assembly was simple. If it wasn't for shitty points in the distributor it would have fired right up. Rebuilding an engine was definitely one of those " I can't believe I did that" moments. Go for it, it's a great feeling when it starts up and runs.

A dial indicator would be helpful to check crank end play but it can be done with feeler gauges.

[Image: engine4-6-102.jpg]

J[Image: california2012157_zps1555141f.jpg]

[Image: california2012158_zpsfcdd5397.jpg]

Rick Bombard
1971 Grabber Green Mach 1 351C 4V
2013 Race Red California Special Convertible
1973 Medium Copper Metallic Convertible 302 4V     SOLD
1953 F-100 project

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#5
As always the answer is, it depends. What are you expecting from the engine? A calm cruiser or something more? If more, how much more? There are a lot of seemingly little things that can contribute to a mediocre to poor outcome. For example, there are 3 different block deck heights for a 429 10.300, 10.310, and 10.322. Which one do you have and which piston comes with the kit? This can significantly change compression the ratio and the engine's resistance to detonation (affects octane requirement). The compression ratio also affects cam selection. Errors in timing sets, crank keyways, and cam pin location can advance or retard the cam and negative impact performance. A mismatch of rings to cylinder wall finish, or improperly installed rings, can create a "Mosquito Killer". The list is long and my typing skills are terrible so, I'll stop now. The best advice I can give you is start asking every gear head you can find what machine shop they use and what results they have experienced. Pay a little more if need be to get the best available in your area. The machine work, and proper selection of parts, makes or breaks the build. Get the machine shop to help you select parts. Lot of 429/460 builds on this site, www.460Ford.com. You may get some helpful insights. Remember it is a forum and some members are more knowledgeable than others. "Trust but verify" Chuck
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#6
I never thought I'd be able to rebuild my engine but I did. I disassembled it, cleaned it up nice and spiffy, and then had the machine shop do a "short block" job on it (they did the machining, assembled the pistons, put in the crank, cam, cam bearings and crank bearings, installed the timing chain and oil pan, etc.). It cost me a little less than $1000 in labor. I picked it up and did the rest to get it together. Click on the "My Wiki" below for more info.

I always get a good feeling thinking about that accomplishment.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#7
73vertproject;198223 Wrote:I always get a good feeling thinking about that accomplishment.

It's nice when you can say I DID IT when someone asks who did your engine or who did your body work and paint.

It's not like when Dennis Gage asks a car owner about his car on TV and the owner says WE did this or WE did that. What he's saying is " I paid some guy to...."

Rick Bombard
1971 Grabber Green Mach 1 351C 4V
2013 Race Red California Special Convertible
1973 Medium Copper Metallic Convertible 302 4V     SOLD
1953 F-100 project

  Reply
#8
I say go for it. If your not in a hurry or rush just take your time, ask questions and research. Honestly if you go the 302/351w route they're about the cheapest/easiest engine to put together.

I'm only 26 years old and only machine work I've had done was milled the heads and a port polish with valve job. Only reason for the latter was because the owner went to school with me grandfather and did it as a surprise/gift/special to send his condolences when he found out he passed away.

Ideally you'd want to have the block checked too but I measured everything carefully and was pretty convinced it was ok as the engine wasn't blown it just had worn valve seals and a little blow by.

Get a good manual off eBay with all the step by step instructions and torque requirements. Make sure you have a good torque wrench, I would not rent one as who knows who else has used it and dropped it (knocking the calibration off).

It seems daunting but the pushrod V8 is a very, very simple and reliable design.

You keep mentioning you don't have a lot of money to spend on it and that's fine. Don't let hearing people on internet that have spent tens of thousands on their project sway you off. If you have it, go for it. If not the figure another way.
I have less than 2,500 in my total project including purchase price.
When I started
[Image: d5773c41663d5e239b3485b70a830f59.jpg]
Where I'm at now
[Image: f859134aa0f91633eb223be09f5d2388.jpg]

Been ongoing 3 years now I think. The key is to do things in stages. Don't get in over your head to quick. Search the classifieds here, craigslist, eBay, etc. honestly if it wasn't for this site and the members here I would have turned away a long time ago and sure as heck would still be twiddling my thumbs on what to do about this or that.

Actually I've had a ton of fun building this car with a little cash as possible. It's like an added challenge to me. Plus I've done everything from replacing metal to painting all by myself and when it's done there will be no better feeling.

Got a little long winded with my post but you seem to have a similar goal as I with your project. A reliable driver classic mustang that's awesome but won't make you refinance your mortgage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#9
"It's nice when you can say I DID IT when someone asks who did your engine or who did your body work and paint." - 71mach351

In this bolt-on, checkbook, world, it's way better than nice, it's defining.

I've always done everything, and it just kills me and makes me giddy when those questions start coming. "Who did your engine? I did. ~gets raised eyebrows~ "Where did you get the tranny? I built it. ~eyebrows flatten~ "Did you paint it?" Yup, did the bodywork too, no bondo. ~eyebrows wrinkle, frown forms~ "Did you do the interior too?" yup, the wiring was a b****. ~sound of receding footsteps can be heard~ so many over the years have all but called me a liar. It's awesome.

Anyway, you CAN do it. the work is easy, it's the learning curve that takes patience. It's not magic. It's nuts and bolts. Anything one man made another can fix. Just find the resources.

I'm done with this soapbox, anyone need it?
  Reply
#10
1972MustangSVH;198235 Wrote:"It's nice when you can say I DID IT when someone asks who did your engine or who did your body work and paint." - 71mach351

In this bolt-on, checkbook, world, it's way better than nice, it's defining.

Anyway, you CAN do it. the work is easy, it's the learning curve that takes patience. It's not magic. It's nuts and bolts. Anything one man made another can fix. Just find the resources.

I'm done with this soapbox, anyone need it?

I'll chime in again by saying it's worth it, but will take perseverance. If you get bogged down like I did come back here for some inspiration. This group will keep you motivated!!!

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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