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many questions / problems
#1
About 4 months ago I bought a 73 mustang that had a carb fire 6 years ago Confused I stripped the rotted interior out and found minimal rust Smile untill I worked the trunk open ( the non destructive way) and found it like swiss cheese. I have about 40 square feet of sheet steel #8 thickness could I just reskin the trunk pan simply with this since I am not building a show stopper it is for my enjoyment. or is that more work then it is worth .


Next up ... or dropped is the fuel tank. I removed the filler neck and shone a light down in and all I saw was black gritty junk and the smell of 6+ year old varnish its not even close to saveable


and now the wires ...they are gone for the most part exept for about 2 feet of it that I am restringing one by onebut i am at a dead end for wire color codes in a simple format.



any help or tips on getting this beast running again ?

more pics


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[Image: 2cossj6.png]
97 F150: wrecked, 96 Dodge 4x4: blown motor / donated to the base
88 Suburban 4x4 355 cid 8 inch lift: sold, 95 Celica 5 speed : sold
68 F750 391 cid : sold,  96 F350 7.3 diesel dually : sold
86 Chevy 1500 305 cid c1500: sold, 73 Mustang mach 1 466 cid 5 speed : under construction
89 F350 4x4 cummins swap : sold, 64 Dodge d600: gone
00 Excursion: traded, 72 Mustang mach 1 302: scrapped
73 Mustang coupe: scrapped, 73 ranchero gt
06 Honda crf 450x : sold, 04 Honda vtx 1800
88 Bronco xlt lariat: sold, 76 Charger: traded
95 F350 4x4: sold , 91 Crown Victoria 302: sold
02 Dakota: traded, 96 f250 powerstroke: parts truck
87 f700, 98 e350 powerstroke: sold
03 land rover: traded, 95 f350 dually: part out
95 f350 dually: traded, 94 f150 4x4: traded
97 f250: sold, 76 Maverick 302: sold
91 240sx rb25: sold, 86 firebird: sold
86 Trans Am: sold, 88 westernstar: sold
89 dodge d350: sold, 2000 Dakota 4x4: sold  
84 f350 3+3: sold, 90 bronco: partout
67 catalina, 64 chevy c60
64 jeep j200, 74 corvette stingray
79 Lincoln mark V, 2013 f350: goldilocks
  Reply
#2
Believe me when I say I've seen worse. First the trunk. This floorpan holds your rear frame rails from moving in and out. Your going to want to inspect it carefully as well as the rear of the frame rails where your springs attatch. These body styles are notorious for the rails and floor rotting together and allow the springs to literally come up through the trunk!
As for the fuel tank. REPLACE IT! For the cost of a new one vs. time to clean and reseal your old one, your piece of mind way ahead.
Wiring. Before you start string all of that red wire all through the car (which will make troubleshooting down the road a magor PITA, Get with Midlife. He's a vendor on this sight and has helped many members here with all kinds of wiring issues. Hope this helps and good luck!
Almost forgot: I do have a couple of extra engine side harnesses yhat I have no idea of the wire condition. But if you need a core harness for Midlife your welcome to it.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
  Reply
#3
On the " rotted " interior
I have seen many guys toss out these things thinking they will buy all new.
Save the seat for cores, seat tracks and plastic parts
Door panel woodgrain and stainless trim parts
All the plastic trim
A lot is not made for 71-3's and some is hard to find.

As for making the trunk floor with flat stock
Original is not flat, it has recesses and raised area for mounting various parts
Clearance for the gas tank filler pipe and vapor housing.
Angles so gas tank braces mount the tank at proper angle

Agree with Mark replace the tank

Also get Mark to sell you the extra front bumper he has
Don

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

VISIT US ON THE WEB AT
http://www.ohiomustang.com

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
  Reply
#4
Welcome! It looks like you picked up a nicely optioned 73. I agree, get a new gas tank instead of trying to repair the current one.

Save everything. Plastic Ziplock baggies work great to the small stuff.

There is a wiring diagram for our cars under the DATA menu at the top of the page.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
#5
@ oms, I like your sight and have bought things from you in the past from your ebay store and have been pleased by them I gutted the carpet only because when I was vacuming it out the shop vac was pulling it apart. All the other molding and hard bits I kept to repurpose and put back in.

[Image: 2cossj6.png]
97 F150: wrecked, 96 Dodge 4x4: blown motor / donated to the base
88 Suburban 4x4 355 cid 8 inch lift: sold, 95 Celica 5 speed : sold
68 F750 391 cid : sold,  96 F350 7.3 diesel dually : sold
86 Chevy 1500 305 cid c1500: sold, 73 Mustang mach 1 466 cid 5 speed : under construction
89 F350 4x4 cummins swap : sold, 64 Dodge d600: gone
00 Excursion: traded, 72 Mustang mach 1 302: scrapped
73 Mustang coupe: scrapped, 73 ranchero gt
06 Honda crf 450x : sold, 04 Honda vtx 1800
88 Bronco xlt lariat: sold, 76 Charger: traded
95 F350 4x4: sold , 91 Crown Victoria 302: sold
02 Dakota: traded, 96 f250 powerstroke: parts truck
87 f700, 98 e350 powerstroke: sold
03 land rover: traded, 95 f350 dually: part out
95 f350 dually: traded, 94 f150 4x4: traded
97 f250: sold, 76 Maverick 302: sold
91 240sx rb25: sold, 86 firebird: sold
86 Trans Am: sold, 88 westernstar: sold
89 dodge d350: sold, 2000 Dakota 4x4: sold  
84 f350 3+3: sold, 90 bronco: partout
67 catalina, 64 chevy c60
64 jeep j200, 74 corvette stingray
79 Lincoln mark V, 2013 f350: goldilocks
  Reply
#6
i would change the tank and fuel lines as well as the fuel pump, and vapor system if you decide to keep it. you do not want to start up the car and have grit from somewhere else in the fuel system stick the float in the carb and cause another fire.


I had to start my interior from scratch, bare shell. it took about 3 years to source all the parts i needed. DON AT OMS helped me a great deal in getting parts!

Also i got lucky during my restoration there was a upsurge in reproduction parts and every time a 71-73 repop interior part came on the market i snapped it up.
Some of the parts were just limited run and are off the market again and its only been like 7 years.

before my project started i was told it was super easy to get interior parts for a mustang the assumption was oh its easy to get 65-68 parts so it must be just as easy to get 69-73 parts.

part of the problem is before 71 they used metal interior parts with paint, 71-73 they started to use plastic for the interior and not much of the original plastic survived.

Also you can't swap a lot of things between the body styles coupe parts don't fit the mach 1(sportback), and only late 72 and 73 are interchangeable due to safety changes.

that said if you have a will and a way you can get everything you need.

The repop dashboards panels are awesome just a slight difference between original some of the hardware you have to source to work on the repop parts, but i found everything in the nut and bolt sections of Lowe's there are these bind nuts that go on the passenger side around the glove box surround the studs on the repop are thinner then original so the original nuts won't work but lowes had a bunch of different sizes and i found one that worked.

there are even repops for the AC vents now.

the seat retractors are always broken and cracked so inspect them, took me a while to source a clean set.

obviously save the seat guts, and save the rear seat foam. the front seats you can get new foam for.
and save the Metal badges on the seat covers you will need to reuse them. save the front seat rear plastic clam shell covers also.
the side plastic covers for the hinges you can get reproduction, seat handle for the quick release you can get also if your originals are rusted.


OH i would save the original seat covers, because of the comfort weave inserts if yours are in good shape you could have them sewn into the new seat covers. original comfort weave is desirable.


The electrical harness, i had a chart somewhere that showed the color codes have to see if i still have it.
midlife can rebuild the harness, if you want to do it yourself, the best is find another harness that is wrecked, and then Splice sections together to recreate the original harness. I took my mach 1 72 harness and spliced it together with a 73 convertible harness many of the wires were the same color code, so i could match up the connections and splice in new connectors as well. you can do it took me 3 days of hard work i made solder connections and heat shrink tubing over repairs. i even cut the molded plastic holders and pushed the new wire into the holders and glued them back together. the whole harness was covered in wire tape so i hid all the new connections and when you look at it, the harness looks bran new. most expensive option would be to source a new harness, you have to make sure to match the options the car has to the new harness ford made many harnesses for each body style and options, so it can be very confusing. a couple years ago engine bay harnesses were over 300$ no idea what the current price is.
  Reply
#7
I can take care of your entire wiring system with the possible exception of a few accessories. Just send me what you have as cores, let me look through them to figure out what's repairable and what isn't, and I'll replace what can't be fixed, all with a 2 year warranty at very good prices. Go to http://midlife66.com/harnesses for more info.

The only "handling charges" are associated Ms. Bank of Midlife, my accountant. *G*
  Reply
#8
some more pics

The air valve leads to the rear shocks which cant be stock

Edit forgor wire pic


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
                       

[Image: 2cossj6.png]
97 F150: wrecked, 96 Dodge 4x4: blown motor / donated to the base
88 Suburban 4x4 355 cid 8 inch lift: sold, 95 Celica 5 speed : sold
68 F750 391 cid : sold,  96 F350 7.3 diesel dually : sold
86 Chevy 1500 305 cid c1500: sold, 73 Mustang mach 1 466 cid 5 speed : under construction
89 F350 4x4 cummins swap : sold, 64 Dodge d600: gone
00 Excursion: traded, 72 Mustang mach 1 302: scrapped
73 Mustang coupe: scrapped, 73 ranchero gt
06 Honda crf 450x : sold, 04 Honda vtx 1800
88 Bronco xlt lariat: sold, 76 Charger: traded
95 F350 4x4: sold , 91 Crown Victoria 302: sold
02 Dakota: traded, 96 f250 powerstroke: parts truck
87 f700, 98 e350 powerstroke: sold
03 land rover: traded, 95 f350 dually: part out
95 f350 dually: traded, 94 f150 4x4: traded
97 f250: sold, 76 Maverick 302: sold
91 240sx rb25: sold, 86 firebird: sold
86 Trans Am: sold, 88 westernstar: sold
89 dodge d350: sold, 2000 Dakota 4x4: sold  
84 f350 3+3: sold, 90 bronco: partout
67 catalina, 64 chevy c60
64 jeep j200, 74 corvette stingray
79 Lincoln mark V, 2013 f350: goldilocks
  Reply
#9
Dude - awhile back when you told me you'd bought your '73 and needed to get the wiring done, I was thinking that maybe you just had a little re-wiring to do and you'd be good to go. But it looks to me like yours is going to be almost as much of a project as mine has been (with the except that yours probably has less rust and you won't need to swap out the front clip).

I would save you the anguish of not knowing what to do next and say to always listen to these guys - they know what they're talking about and I couldn't have gotten as far along on mine as I have without their help. Don @ OMS will become one of your best friends - if by some small chance he doesn't have something, he'll find a way to get it to you or point you in the right direction.

One thing I will definitely advise - don't try to 'patch' the bad spots of the floor pans and trunk floor with the sheet metal you have. I would get the appropriate replacement sheet metal from OMS or NPD... your floor pans look almost as bad as mine were, and there was more damage in the 'sandwich' areas (such as above the torque boxes and close to the firewall). Even if you don't replace the entire floor pans or trunk pan, you should still get the entire replacement panels and use them as your patches - they'll at least fit in there without any question of what goes where or looking like a total hack job.

Good luck with it.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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