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Lowering front end
#1
I plan to put on lowering springs today and want to know if the change on the fronts require an alignment?

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#2
rottenralph;187646 Wrote:I plan to put on lowering springs today and want to know if the change on the fronts require an alignment?

I don't know about the alignment, but it sounds like your back is doing much better. That's good news.

Ron
Rusty, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.
Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.
El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.
Bubba, my 1994 F150, daily driver
Formerly, a 1973 Ford Mustang Coupe - a work in progress, then a car-b-qued banana.
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#3
I would recommend aligning the wheels after changing the springs. The new springs can affect the camber adjustment. Better safe than sorry.

-Travis

- Travis



I'm an analog man in a digital world.
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#4
Thanks, that is what I thought.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#5
You´ll end up with too much positive camber that will need adjusting. At least I did.

[Image: 1z21rv4.png]

Mike

"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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#6
When the front comes down both camber and toe will change... caster may change slightly.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#7
Wrench 
rottenralph,

Plus 1 on forum response! I would definitely get an alignment due to the changing of the geometry of your front end. Since you should have a re-alignment, take a look at these alignment specs. from Opentracker Racing. They have both street and race specifications.


http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/tech/

mustang7173 Big Grin
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#8
mustang7173;187933 Wrote:rottenralph,

I would definitely get an alignment due to the changing of the geometry of your front end. Since you should have a re-alignment, take a look at these alignment specs. from Opentracker Racing. They have both street and race specifications.


http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/tech/

mustang7173
The specs seem reasonable to me. Chuck
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#9
I am considering lowering the front end of my 71 351. As it is done with the earlier models, do the upper control arms need to be lowered as well by drilling new mounting holes? I only plan to lower 1".

Thanks,
Peter

I found my answer at http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-lower...mod?page=1
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#10
yes you will need an alignment. the car will be drivable after the spring change.

one issue depending on your drop will be bump steer, if you find hitting a bump makes the car change lanes without you wanting to then you will need a bump steer eliminator kit, that drops the tie-rod ends below the knuckle about 2". after installing the bump steer kit you will need another alignment as the toe will be incorrect. what happens is ford designed the suspension to work in a range and when you lower the car 1-2" you kind of get into the range ford meant for the suspension to be compressed in but your using it for normal ride height so when you hit a bump it causes toe-out on the side of the suspension that is compressed. so you have lets say 1/8" toe in set, the left side hits a bump and goes to suddenly 1/8 toe out while the right side is still at 1/8" toe in, that is the same and turning the steering wheel suddenly to the left, so that is bad. the bump steer eliminator drops the tie rod down which mimicks the original angle without the drop and thus reduces this bump steer issue. i had this problem when i tried to run 1 degree negative camber to put more performance into the handling with a 1" 416lb spring drop. i bought the bump steer kit but then i changed to 0 camber and put more positive caster which reduced the bump steer issue so i never installed the bump steer kit and gave it away to a friend a couple of years ago.
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