• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Looking to upgade factory center gauges.
#1
I just picked up a factory center gauge cluster complete. My car does not have gauges, just idiot lights, but I would like to find small 1 1/2" oil, volts and temp gauges to fit behind the front panel so they look somewhat authentic. I don't want to wreck the originals, but make a fitment to mount the new gauges. I have seen some 1 1/2" gauges on E-bay, but not sure if they will work for me. I wouldn't mind running a mechanical oil gauge. Alternatively, if I could just find a volt gauge to replace the Amp gauge without damaging the pod, I might look at that as well. I do NOT intend to spend big bucks on this as it may not be practical in the long run. I do not want to bypass the idiot lights either if possible, so this is more of an experiment at this stage.
Anyone got any ideas without going into a 10 page post??
Thanks in advance,
Geoff.
  Reply
#2
I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

Bosch voltmeter in ammeter's place:
[Image: attachment.php?aid=42454]

[Image: attachment.php?aid=43080]

Hope this helps.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
  Reply
#3
I am doing a similar upgrade, but mounting my gauges from the front with 2 1/16" gauges. One thing I can help out with is keeping the idiot lights as I plan to do the same. I have not figured up all of the thread sizes yet but you will have to remove the idiot light sending units and install a nipple and T into each opening then reinstall the idiot light sending unit in one outlet of the T and the new sending unit in the other outlet. Conversely on the water temp side I am looking into using the opening for the temp vac switch for one of the sensors to eliminate the T at the front of the block, I'm just not positive on getting an accurate reading from that position based on the T-Stat position. Also since I am doing all after market gauges with electric sending units (just something about a tube full of oil inside my car makes me nervous) I am building a harness for the gauges so if I need to remove at some point I can just unplug it.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#4
Mister 4x4;289953 Wrote:I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

Bosch voltmeter in ammeter's place:
[Image: attachment.php?aid=42454]

[Image: attachment.php?aid=43080]

Hope this helps.

That looks fantastic. I searched for some time but was unable to find the actual gauge housing so I had to go the front mount route.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#5
Mister 4x4;289953 Wrote:I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

Hope this helps.

Wow Eric, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Looks good and still somewhat original. The set I picked up is in VGC but does need a repaint. Other than that, I think this will work out great.
Thanks for the speedy reply,
Geoff.
  Reply
#6
73pony;289955 Wrote:
Mister 4x4;289953 Wrote:I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

That looks fantastic. I searched for some time but was unable to find the actual gauge housing so I had to go the front mount route.

Jason, I literally got lucky. An ad was posted on Kijiji for a complete set of gauges, tach and speedometer, center consul and the wiring harness for $***, dirt cheap so I was fortunate to grab it all. I guess even a blind dog gets a bone sometimes!!
There is another ad for center gauges on there right now, but the dreamer wants $500 !!!!
  Reply
#7
73pony;289954 Wrote:I am doing a similar upgrade, but mounting my gauges from the front with 2 1/16" gauges. One thing I can help out with is keeping the idiot lights as I plan to do the same. I have not figured up all of the thread sizes yet but you will have to remove the idiot light sending units and install a nipple and T into each opening then reinstall the idiot light sending unit in one outlet of the T and the new sending unit in the other outlet. Conversely on the water temp side I am looking into using the opening for the temp vac switch for one of the sensors to eliminate the T at the front of the block, I'm just not positive on getting an accurate reading from that position based on the T-Stat position. Also since I am doing all after market gauges with electric sending units (just something about a tube full of oil inside my car makes me nervous) I am building a harness for the gauges so if I need to remove at some point I can just unplug it.

Thanks Jason, that info will be of great help. I wasn't sure if I could, or how to even do it. I have a friend with a Mach 1 with both gauges and idiot lights and he swears they are factory, but I don't think so, no way. I do know his car had 73 parts added to it at some point, so I think it was changed, just don't know which way around.
  Reply
#8
Mister 4x4;289953 Wrote:I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

Hope this helps.

Do you by any chance have the part # for the Volt gauge? I looked on Summit Racing, but all I saw was 2 or 2 1/16th" gauges, nothing smaller. The one you show looks to be similar in size to the Ford ones.
Can you get back to me on that either here or a PM.
Thanks,
Geoff.
  Reply
#9
Glad you like it. thumb

There's a thread floating around on exactly how to do it - Here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-amps-...t-in-gauge

Also - since you have the idiot lights, you might consider getting an RCCI conversion tach to replace the lights with something more functional. It'll keep the idiot lights in the circuit, but with a working tachometer, instead of just the blank face... which won't be as noticeable that it's a non-gauge equipped car.

Mine was originally a 'clock/speedo' car, and RCCI converts the clock to a tach as well, which plugs right back into the printed circuit and functions accordingly. I also did that at the same time I swapped the center gauge voltmeter, then installed new gauge lenses and LED bulbs. Couldn't be happier.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=42328]

[Image: attachment.php?aid=42455]

[Image: attachment.php?aid=43078]

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
  Reply
#10
Mister 4x4;289968 Wrote:Glad you like it. thumb

There's a thread floating around on exactly how to do it - Here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-amps-...t-in-gauge

Also - since you have the idiot lights, you might consider getting an RCCI conversion tach to replace the lights with something more functional. It'll keep the idiot lights in the circuit, but with a working tachometer, instead of just the blank face... which won't be as noticeable that it's a non-gauge equipped car.

Mine was originally a 'clock/speedo' car, and RCCI converts the clock to a tach as well, which plugs right back into the printed circuit and functions accordingly. I also did that at the same time I swapped the center gauge voltmeter, then installed new gauge lenses and LED bulbs. Couldn't be happier.

Again my thanks. I do have the RCCI conversion, been in for a season now and I love it. It has the idiot lights in it and they don't even show till the key is turned. I'd suggest ANYONE with lights and no tach, buy one of these units.
I'll check the link soon when I have some time and get back to you.
Geoff.
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Factory tach and center gauges without changing harness? TheDude 16 840 01-07-2019, 09:28 PM
Last Post: midlife
  Resistor wire to factory Tach ninasteel 3 249 01-01-2019, 02:55 PM
Last Post: ninasteel
  Center Gauges jpaz 5 356 12-29-2018, 09:26 PM
Last Post: jpaz
  New Gauges won't allow car to start 73Grande/Mach1 6 1,026 12-27-2018, 12:28 PM
Last Post: B229218
runninpony 3 Gauges Bulb Socket NOT A T5 3 333 08-13-2018, 08:37 AM
Last Post: midlife
  Tach/gauges conversion 73429mach 21 1,936 01-26-2018, 06:27 PM
Last Post: 73429mach
  Gauges fail and not mpbsr 9 652 01-16-2018, 06:04 AM
Last Post: NOT A T5
  Do fuel gauges fail in this manner? Flatback72 8 1,185 01-14-2018, 11:18 PM
Last Post: Flatback72



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)