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Issue with bearing retainer of Wilwood 140-11403 brake kit with drum e-brake
#11
(11-21-2019, 06:23 PM)Don C Wrote: Maybe buy some shim stock and cut out your own.
https://www.grainger.com/category/raw-ma...ters=attrs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005I58V0I/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
I thought about it, but I have never tried. Is that thickness easy to cut with a knife or scissors?

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#12
I would use stainless steel on those, which is probably a little hard for scissors. A hand or powered nibbler would probably be needed. I have a hand nibbler that works well for things like that, a little tedious and tiring, but on relatively small things like that they're not bad. Tin snips would work for the outside, but nibblers or a small cutoff wheel would be best on the inside. You could also use a narrow cold chisel to rough out the inside diameter.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#13
Good news. Thank you D0n. Since I had to pay a small order fee and shipping, I ended up buying several shim sizes from Huyett. The 2.912 x 2.598 fit great. Even though they have a slightly smaller ID, since I am cutting about 45 degrees of the shim to fit over the axle, they easily expand the 5 thou needed. I purchased the 0.023" and the 0.007" thick ones. Now I have to find the time to install the axles and test for backlash.
Here is the link for whoever has this issue in the future:
https://www.huyett.com/Search?searchtext...l=2.598%22

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#14
So I was installing the passenger side axle yesterday and I misread the shop manual as to tighten the axle bearing flange to 70 ft-lbs. As I was doing it I felt it was way too much. Today I have been searching around to find 35-40 ft-lbs. The maximum recommended for 3/8-24s is 35 ft-lbs for Grade 5 and 49 ft-lbs for Grade 8. I guess I should have trusted my instinct that something was wrong and stopped. I am glad my bolts didn't break. I will undo them and retighten them to 35-40 ft-lbs. Today while checking the manual I realized I looked at the wrong data. I feel like a moron Shootself Angry Chin.

[Image: Ford9-torque-spec.jpg]

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#15
You might want to replace those bolts. Even though they didn't break, the over-torqueing may have damaged the bolts, which could lead to failure due to live loads.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#16
(12-06-2019, 11:15 AM)Don C Wrote: You might want to replace those bolts. Even though they didn't break, the over-torqueing may have damaged the bolts, which could lead to failure due to live loads.

Good advice

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#17
Thank you guys. I removed the bolts and the threads are like new. I still got new lock nuts just in case. Nuts are softer than the bolts so they should get damaged first. My T-Bolts are Currie Grade 8 that i bought new last year.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#18
The section of the bolt that would be stressed is the portion between the head of the bolt and the nut. The strength of the nuts should match the bolt strength.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#19
(12-07-2019, 12:40 PM)Don C Wrote: The section of the bolt that would be stressed is the portion between the head of the bolt and the nut. The strength of the nuts should match the bolt strength.
You are correct about the strength being the same. It was a quick response with not much thought. I meant that the lock nuts are meant to get damaged slightly so they lock in place. I still don't know how this works but somehow that portion has to have less stiffness than the bolt thread. That said, the bolt is black and the nut is bare metal so it was easy to see there was no damage of the bolt threads. I also checked the neck. In my readings I found out that bolts are typically designed to break off before damaging the threads. Although I read this, I have seen damaged threads before breaking off the bolt.

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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