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Is it worth saving
#1
Well I found this 72 Q code in rough shape needs everything rails are junk cowl is gone,pans junk rear rails rough.It was a complete car the guy ripped it apart and found out how bad it was,the only good thing is a numbers matching motor originally a lime green color car automatic


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#2
Only you can answer that question..... by the way you've described the car even if you're going to be doing all the work yourself you'll dump a ton of money into it.

If you plan on having someone else restore it...sky could be the limit.

[Image: 1_14_01_12_10_54_29.png]

Ken

73 Convertible 302-4v-3spd yellow /white int

08 Bullitt 4.6-5 spd black/black int


All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy
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#3
I'ts a lot of work ( and money ) , to make her brandnew again.
It's up to you if you have the time and money to finish this project.

I would buy one in better shape , or a donor sportsroof without the tranny and engine.

John

[Image: hvrju1.png]
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#4
motor still turn over? ..if not..jerk the heads off and drop the pan and make sure it isnt all busted up ....i like the color it was...but wow...just from the one picture..looks like its been threw hell...poor old girl....but i seen worse mustangs come back too life!! <~one good thing..doesnt look like anyone cutt a sun roof in it.lol
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#5
just to give you an idea, I have over 10 grand in my 72 Q and it was new from windshield back. I'd say invest in a solid car and use the Q code parts on it.
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#6
As a couple of folks have said and/or inferred, it is going to take a large outlay of capital and interest.

I would say, however, that there were only 8, 677 (2,596 4-speeds and 6,081 C6s) Q-coded fastbacks made in 1972.

BT

Do the RIGHT thing.
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#7
yes after looking at it pretty good today I think the shell is ready for the great stable in the sky.I will have to find a solid doner and use all the parts off this one.I am very interested in seeing this color on a car in person.I just couldn't pass it up for a 1000 and I found out it has a tilt column Bonus.I have to finish the grabber blue car first its getting closer got her running just a bunch of assembly left.
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#8
Depends on what you want to do with it. Do you want to make it drivable, plus pretty or a full scale Concours job? My car was drivable but not pretty. We did some minor suspension and engine work and mostly replaced the interior. Next is body and paint job. My Mustang is also fairly rare so I decide to fix it up without breaking the bank. We use Concours correct parts when we can simply because they tend to work better. Go figure. One problem we found was when you replace part of the interior, say the carpet, the seats don't look right. We do the work ourselves, not easy on a daily driver, but saves money and it is a lot of fun.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#9
Well... from where i am, that car can, should and would be repaired without thinking it twice but if it is so busted, then you can think of alternatives that can lead you to a safest end...

I dont know much about what mach1 code is better than other but forgetting that, if you have a car mostly complete with a good factory option combo and what´s bad is the shell, then use it, but with another shell...

Luchy we are, in our era mustangs, all shells are identical so you always can purchase a good sportsroof (they are tended to value more each day but if your shell is destroyed, then a 7, 8K sportsroof is going to be cheaper than fixing yours anyway) and start from there... using the most solid shell, accident free you can get and thinking you´re restoring the mach1 with a donnor body...

First of all, if i were you, i´ll check twice about the vin you´ve red is positive, the car vin... I notice the passengers door appears to be changed, so can be the drivers door where the door tag is... Also, ive seen in Ebay, some fellas that sells the upper instrument panel metal sheet (the one that has the other visible vin) and they sell this part with a mach 1 VIN on it...

Scott knows better than i do, but there´s another sport in the cowl where the vin is stamped actually in the body, making it very difficult to change... I think it is readable from the inside better than from the engine bay and it is located behind the heater, in the center of the fron cowl, just above the transmission tunnel...

Well... hope it helps someway!



Damián Cool

[Image: 120x45bk1ani.gif]
Vote For 7173Mustangs.Com Every Day!
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#10
Stangit72,

What was the original color code !??

John

[Image: hvrju1.png]
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