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Intro from Az
#1
Hey everyone, my name is Chris, I just recently got to start playing with my new toy, 1973 Mach1. Picked it up a few months ago for a steal but had to go through a bonded title process which the post office lost 3 times. Oh well it was worth it!

Not my first mustang or classic. I also own a 1969 F350 Crewcab long bed(from factory) and have owned 2-1970 mustang coupes, a 67 cougar and a 72 f250.  Haha My wife thinks I may have a problem.... OH WELL!

Any who, I don't get to see a lot of 71-73 mach's in Az, or atlas not looking in the right places. Would love to be able to see if theres routine shows or groups, aside from good guys and the pavilions. 

Goals for the car, wanting to make it a weekend warrior, lol, and maybe get a little squirely in autocross (yes I know its a boat, don't care). 

My mach is not road worthy yet. Since I just got it literally only vacuumed it out. Im debating on a few things as well. I believe it has the numbers match 351c, 2b carb 2v heads but, I can't see the engine code above the starter. 

So the dilemma, If it is numbers matching, do I play with it and get it running, (swapping intake and carb at minimum) or, SWAP!!! 302 or 351 out of late model fords and trash the refi and go sniper and store the original....

I am not partial to keeping it original, but I don't want to do anything that will drastically affect the value, or cannot be undone. example, not doing a mustang 2 fs swap. Although will upgrade the suspension from TCP. 
 
decisions decisions. 


Any who let me know thoughts!!!!
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#2
Welcome from Iowa.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


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#3
Welcome from North Carolina.
The casting numbers over the starter will not tell you much except what year it is. All blocks have the same casting number 2V or 4V Q code with 4 bolt mains same. You have to peek inside to see if 4 bolt.
The partial VIN# is stamped just below the head on the LH rear of the block and should match the VIN# of the car. Transmission also will have VIN# stamped on it.
It is looking like the tide is turning to resto mod cars being worth more than stock if done right.
What is the DSO code on the car? If original black it will be 6 digits and no color code on the door sticker.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#4
Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Build the 351 that’s in the car, if it’s good. You can change the heads if you want or do it how you like. 2v cars don’t really bring that much money anyway, so you don’t have to worry about that. But that 351 can be made to run very well! Looks like a great car to start with so have fun and good luck with whatever you decide on.

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#5
Welcome from northern California.

mike

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  Reply
#6
Welcome from Oregon.
Looks like you have a decent car to start with. Good luck with your car.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#7
Howdy from Mesa! I keep thinking we need to have a get together of the Phoenix area folks. Maybe when it get cooler. You've got some time to decide on what to do with it. Our cars don't go for big dollars, unless they are super rare, so have fun with it. Smile

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#8
(05-31-2019, 01:52 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: Welcome from North Carolina.
The casting numbers over the starter will not tell you much except what year it is. All blocks have the same casting number 2V or 4V Q code with 4 bolt mains same. You have to peek inside to see if 4 bolt.
The partial VIN# is stamped just below the head on the LH rear of the block and should match the VIN# of the car. Transmission also will have VIN# stamped on it.
It is looking like the tide is turning to resto mod cars being worth more than stock if done right.
What is the DSO code on the car? If original black it will be 6 digits and no color code on the door sticker.
Lost me with DSO number. Where is that located?
  Reply
#9
The DSO is the code number of the District where the dealership was located that sold your car when new. It is located on the bottom right of the door data plate on the driver's door of your car. The normal number is two digits. A special order car had six numbers in the DSO box, the first two are the district code and the last four are the special order number.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-ford...#pid347340



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#10
Welcome from San Diego.  It's your car and your money build what makes you happy. My only advise is keep it true to the breed. That will help the value.

- Mike
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