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Intake valley pan, reuse it???
Even link bar lifters should have clearance, judging by Tony's photos.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
the stock cleveland t stat system is definitely a big problem in some cases and can in fact cause an engine to run hotter than it otherwise would if the "hat" on the t stat is not properly sealing on the bypass plate. you can buy t stats with custom made hats and you can also buy custom made bypass plates for the stock systems. this is the most reliable system as far as stock is concerned. another alternative is to change the system to a windsor type t stat and modified block off plate or aftermarket one. the only potential issue with this type of system is that under some circumstances, it can cause stock heads to crack, but this is incredibly rare.

Here's some photos and pricing on the custom t stat and plate.

(12-15-2018, 11:58 AM)scgamecock Wrote: I pulled the cast iron intake manifold off and am replacing it with an edelbrock intake.  I have noticed that the replacement intake gasket sets do not come with a new lifter valley pan.  Do I reuse the one that was on it?  Do I reuse the pan at all???  The reason I ask whether or not to use the pan is because I have watched several 351c tear down videos and some engines did not have this pan on it when they pulled the stock intakes.

So use it or lose it??  
If I use it do I buy a new one or clean and reuse the one that is in there?

Under no circumstance should anyone EVER re-use the "turkey-pan" style intake gasket. When using this style of intake gasket, always use a new one.
     Now...….some people will tell you to chuck the original style gasket and use aftermarket fibre style gaskets......telling you not to use the steel "bathtub' or "turkey pan" Either will seal and do the job. let me repeat that....EITHER style will work. Sometimes the pan style has interference issues with aftermarket roller rockers, in which case, obviously, you won't use the turkey pan. I assemble every engine that leaves the racing engine shop where I work, and have worked for many years. I have used the stock "turkey pan" on stock iron intakes ( factory used them) , and I've used the "turkey pan" on aluminum intakes with equally successfull results. I don't really ever use the rubber valley endseals as they are too prone to slip out and leak. I prefer to use the Permatex RTV in a 6" caulking gun tube called "The Right Stuff"and have never had a problem sealing the ends. On a steel pan intake, I use a thin layer of Gasgacinch on both sides of the intake ports for good measure, though I can't be sure the factory did, and it sealed for them.
     If you've only ever worked on your 351C, you would be unaware that engines such as the 350/400/425/455 Olds used a steel "turkey pan" gasket from the factory and they work fine, yes, even with an aluminum intake manifold ( the W-30 Olds 455 came factory with an aluminum intake, as did the W-31 Olds 350 ). The Olds engines even have water crossovers to seal, and there are no problems. Further, the big block Dodge/Plymouth/ Chrysler big blocks like the 383s and 440s also used a steel "turkey pan" style intake gasket from the factory. And so did AMC on their V8 intakes, again, having a water crossover to seal as well. NONE of these engines have had any issues with the steel pan style intake gasket. Come to think of it, didn't Ford use a "turkey pan" from the factory on the Boss 351 with an aluminum manifold? I've not had an original to dissemble and find out, but Ford may very well have used the same steel gasket as they used on the 4V head engines. I wonder if the factory parts book doesn't call out the same part number for the bathtub intake gasket?
     The factory style "turkey pan" will also keep hot oil off of the bottom of your intake to boot.
     So, if you feel better using a Mr. Gasket or Fel-Pro racing style paper intake gasket, and it works for you, do it. If you want to use the steel embossed intake pan, do it.
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