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Intake sucking air and not in a good way!
#1
Finally figured out why I'm getting a bad backfire and have a loud whistling sound.  The intake is leaking really bad.  I found it by spraying brake clean around the edges.  I guess I should have used the turkey pan after all and not just those thin gaskets.  I have a set of thick performance felpro gaskets this time.  I guess this was self inflicted. 

The new performance gaskets did not come with a turkey pan so I assume that I don't use one with these thicker gaskets.

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
Just use the regular gaskets on the heads and a BIG thick bead of silicone at the front and rear. No turkey pan. Torque down to spec. Let it sit overnight for silicone to set up. then run it. I used edelbrock gaskets on mine last time.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
[+] 1 user Likes turtle5353's post
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#3
Not sure guys.

Ford had tons of resources and tons of development dollars to figure out that the turkey pan was the right call for the 4V intake.  I always use a turkey pan, and I have never had an intake leak problem.  

Swim at your own risk.....

kcmash
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#4
I disagree on the "silicone" or RTV. Buy a tube of "The Right Stuff". It isn't cheap, but it will last and if you sell the car, it won't come back to bite you.
Just my opinion.

I learn something new every day!
[+] 2 users Like Stanglover's post
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#5
(03-22-2019, 08:55 AM)Stanglover Wrote: I disagree on the "silicone" or RTV. Buy a tube of "The Right Stuff". It isn't cheap, but it will last and if you sell the car, it won't come back to bite you.
Just my opinion.

I actually bought this stuff for this next gasket replace.

thumb

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#6
Before you swap the gasket out, retorque the intake in the factory pattern. I had a couple loosen up on me over the years when using performance aftermarket gaskets.


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#7
+1, on using Right Stuff. Like most I had been using regular RTV, but not liking it. The parts, like a differential cover, that I took apart had a red silicone-like sealer that was denser and stuck a lot better than RTV sealer. I finally asked a guy I knew at the parts counter at the local Ford dealer what is was. He brought out a tube of Ford Ultra Silicone sealer. I don't remember what the price was, but it made me take a deep breath before I bought it. Kind of like the first tube of silicone spark plug grease I bought, Ford was the only place I could find it. Finally they came out with Right Stuff, it was much cheaper and the same as the Ford sealer. The prices are comparable now. Ford has several different ones, now, for different applications, just easier to get Right Stuff at a parts store than mess around with a parts counter person at Ford, or to wait for it to come from Amazon.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
(03-22-2019, 10:58 AM)scgamecock Wrote:
(03-22-2019, 08:55 AM)Stanglover Wrote: I disagree on the "silicone" or RTV. Buy a tube of "The Right Stuff". It isn't cheap, but it will last and if you sell the car, it won't come back to bite you.
Just my opinion.

I actually bought this stuff for this next gasket replace.

thumb

thumb
Actually, today I noticed a new (to me) product from Permatex. I don't remember the exact name, but it is a black RTV gasket maker that is supposed be more resistant to oil and temp variation. But I still think I'd use the Right Stuff as it's proven.
Don't you just hate it when you have to go back and do the job again! Been there.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#9
(03-22-2019, 02:31 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(03-22-2019, 10:58 AM)scgamecock Wrote:
(03-22-2019, 08:55 AM)Stanglover Wrote: I disagree on the "silicone" or RTV. Buy a tube of "The Right Stuff". It isn't cheap, but it will last and if you sell the car, it won't come back to bite you.
Just my opinion.

I actually bought this stuff for this next gasket replace.

thumb

thumb
Actually, today I noticed a new (to me) product from Permatex. I don't remember the exact name, but it is a black RTV gasket maker that is supposed be more resistant to oil and temp variation. But I still think I'd use the Right Stuff as it's proven.
Don't you just hate it when you have to go back and do the job again! Been there.
Geoff.

I said silicone in my original post just as a generic term. I apologize for any confusion. But I do use the black RTV gasket maker or the Ford Perma-gasket. Both work very well and are oil and gas resistant.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#10
+Many to The Right Stuff. Practice on how to make a thick bead. You can put the manifold in place beforehand to get an idea of the gap. The gap was more than what i expected and the first time i did this a few years ago i didnt do a good job. The second time it looked beautiful and sealed great. I kept the turkey pan and cut it so the runners seal against the gasket. A few people here have done the same and there are a few pictures around, there is one in my threas but i dont have access right now.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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