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Intake Manifold Valley Pan Installation
#1
Got the heads on and now its time to do the Intake Manifold Valley Pan Installation. Question: when I read the shop manual for installing the intake manifold gasket it reads "apply non hardening sealer at the four junction points of the seals and cylinder heads". It doesn't say anything about applying any sealer around the ports. Howerver, the fel pro gasket valley pan instructions states this: Apply a thin coat of sealer around the intake ports on the top side of the gasket. Now apply a 1/8 inch bead of silicone sealer around each water port on the gasket. So do you apply sealer or not? thanks in advance.
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#2
There are many thoughts on the turkey basket. I intend on installing mine. The directions are horrible aren't they?!?!?!

My builder told me to use a feeler gage between the manifold and the head to assure I did not have any space. Otherwise, oil may by sucked by one or more of the intakes and burned out the tail.

From:

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum...05990.html

Daniel Jones
Gearhead
posted 01-31-2002 03:38 PM
If you're using the turkey pan, apply a thin layer
of the black Permatex around the ports of the pan. Allow the Permatex to
get tacky before installing. Using long guide on the 4 center (the
vertical ones) will help guide the manifold into place.


Also from this post:
The pan protects the oil from splashing on the hot exhaust crossover port.
Use it unless you've blocked off the port or have an intake without a
crossover passage (Holley Strip Dominator, for one).
The rubber intake manifold gasket end seals can be troublesome, especially if the heads and/or intake have been milled. Many builders toss the rubber seals and just lay down a bead of RTV but I don't like that as I've seen too many engines with RTV bits clogging up pushrod holes and oil pick ups. I prefer to buy or make my own end seals from cork. I peen the block rails with a punch so the gasket won't squeeze out while it's being torqued down.
BTW, this also works well on valve cover gaskets. Use Permatex 300 (the
black stuf I thinkit's called Permatex Aviaton Form-a-Gasket now) or a
contact cement to hold the gaskets in place. Don't use RTV except in the
corners of the end rails and even there I prefer using the red/brown
(hardeneing) Permatex.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#3
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-intak...t-question

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-intak...old-gasket
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#4
You can use both FelPro gaskets and the turkey pan. Just trim the turkey pay so it doesn't contact the gaskets or the ends, leave a couple of tabs on each side that will line up with the manifold bolts, then drill a couple of holes in the low points on the turkey pan to drain any oil out. For added insulation you can spray a couple of coats of white ceramic engine paint on the bottom of the intake manifold.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
Take a look at it from this direction for a moment. Hot oil on a fingertip is quite painful quickly due to the heat transfer and the fact that oil "holds" heat. On the cast iron manifolds heat was not disipated quickly due to the type of metal. Aluminum disapates heat very quickly at the top air exposed side. on the bottom without the pan it will hold the oils heat and tranfer it to the top. The last turkey pan I used had a spot where oil obviousley layed and the oil was fried to the pan as dry as toast. We used the ceramic paint on the bottom as well (Great idea Don C) and the insulating properties of it work great. I personally didn't have fuel issues but we were running a can cooler while racing anyway but not using it when daily driving.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#6
Don C;68033 Wrote:You can use both FelPro gaskets and the turkey pan. Just trim the turkey pay so it doesn't contact the gaskets or the ends, leave a couple of tabs on each side that will line up with the manifold bolts, then drill a couple of holes in the low points on the turkey pan to drain any oil out.

The felpro gaskets with the turkey pan are pretty thin. Are you sure we should use them?

Any chance you could cut and paste what the turkey should look like when we are done cutting?

[Image: fel-ms96010_w.jpg]

Don C;68033 Wrote:For added insulation you can spray a couple of coats of white ceramic engine paint on the bottom of the intake manifold.

I can't get paint to stick on solid steel, sanded with 80 grit sand paper, wiped with a tack cloth, wiped with paint thinner, primed with filler primer, sanded with 400 grit sandpaper and painted with engine enamel. How am I going to get paint to stick to that turkey pan?

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#7
Wolverine;68098 Wrote:
Don C;68033 Wrote:You can use both FelPro gaskets and the turkey pan. Just trim the turkey pay so it doesn't contact the gaskets or the ends, leave a couple of tabs on each side that will line up with the manifold bolts, then drill a couple of holes in the low points on the turkey pan to drain any oil out.

The felpro gaskets with the turkey pan are pretty thin. Are you sure we should use them?

We used Felpro with the turkey pan and had no issues on my '71
M-code. Be sure and check the torque of the bolts after you have
run the engine for a few hours. We found mine had loosened up
a bit.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#8
I would install everything per Fel Pro's instructions. I'm not understanding the reason for paint if you're using the pan.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#9
The paint instead of the pan. On alumimum intakes.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#10
Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly. That is a reason it corrodes slowly. It is also why paint won't stick to it very well. I don't want paint falling off of the underside of my intake into the engine valley. There are zinc chromate etching primers, but I don't know of any heat resistant etching primers.

I am using a turkey pan for the moment, but when I rebuild my short block, I will not use one as there are no heat crossovers and it is of too little value to justify the potential leaks. What I do intend to do is deburr and polish the underside off my manifold to a nice shiny finish.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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