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Intake Manifold gasket
#1
Hello there, I ordered a set of intake gaskets for my new aluminum Edelbrock manifold, (351 C) however the store sent me a pair of exhaust gasketsHuh anyway, I really want to be able to start the car this weekend, can I make a set of gaskets from gasket sheet stock? If so is there a proper tyype of gasket stock? I am guessing so. I know I have to use RTV silicone on the ends, so maybe I could make my own gaskets! Where I live everything has to be ordered in which takes a week to get here and I have a long weekend! Enjoy your holiday everybody.
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#2
I guess you could make your own gaskets.
I like the Edebrock gasket (s)cinch in the red can with a brush.
Most 351C guys use silicone instead of the cork or rubber end seals in the "valley pan" area.
Is the motor a 4v or 2v? If its a 2v could you use some 351m-400m gaskets from them(easier to find?)
Keep in mind most have a block off plate of steel for the exhaust cross over (stock style choke) on the pass. side head.
I like the MR. Gasket brand, and with the red silicone ring around the intake port. You don’t want to have any leaks !
Make sure to skip the metal valley pan and don't over torque the intake bolts.
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#3
Need to know..Is it a 351 4v or 2 v? they both take diffrent gaskets... I wouldnt use any gasket maker...I never had any luck with that stuff...lol.Specialy where the intake meets the head..you need a good gasket there....Cleveland manifolds love to leak up front and the back...First time i did mine..It leaked like crazy...The gap on the front and back is pretty big..Even with the gaskets..I would be quite generous with the RTV silicone only on front and back...with the felpro gaskets its not needed where they meet the head......First time i used slippy rubber gaskets upfront and a bit of silicone and failed......but the cork gaskets that felpro sent me stayed in place better than the rubber ones ..that like to slip if you dont glue them in place...felpro cork ones have sticky tape on the bottom and fill the gap better than rubber ones...usualy im not a fan of cork gaskets over all...But ill use them every time on the front of mine from now on..lol


http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/1228/1...tId=746656 this is the gaskets i orderd for mine..I like felpro over all...and only 19 bucks..Its not worth take the chance on doing it cheaper than that...lol
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#4
hyena429;63449 Wrote:Need to know..Is it a 351 4v or 2 v? they both take diffrent gaskets... I wouldnt use any gasket maker...I never had any luck with that stuff...lol.Specialy where the intake meets the head..you need a good gasket there....Cleveland manifolds love to leak up front and the back...First time i did mine..It leaked like crazy...The gap on the front and back is pretty big..Even with the gaskets..I would be quite generous with the RTV silicone only on front and back...with the felpro gaskets its not needed where they meet the head......First time i used slippy rubber gaskets upfront and a bit of silicone and failed......but the cork gaskets that felpro sent me stayed in place better than the rubber ones ..that like to slip if you dont glue them in place...felpro cork ones have sticky tape on the bottom and fill the gap better than rubber ones...usualy im not a fan of cork gaskets over all...But ill use them every time on the front of mine from now on..lol

It was a 2v and still has the 2v heads with an aluminum Edelbrock manifold



http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/1228/1...tId=746656 this is the gaskets i orderd for mine..I like felpro over all...and only 19 bucks..Its not worth take the chance on doing it cheaper than that...lol

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#5
In a pinch you would probably be better off with no gasket and just using gasket maker on both the block and the manifold. 20 years ago that was all the rage and everyone was preaching about how great it was. I never bought into it, always had great success with Felpro and Permatex 2B sealant. If it was something skitchy, I'd use 3-M gorilla snot with the Fel pro gasket.
But if I was 2 weeks out on parts and needed to get my car runing, I would get the block super clean, then wipe it down with some alcohol or solvent. After it dries for a few minutes, put a bead of gasket maker on the block, then a bead in the same spot on the manifold. iI may help to put a light bead on the block, then lightly set the manifold on and then pull it off. That way the silicon while mark the exact spot on the manifold.
Re-apply the light bead on the block and on the manifold and then let it sit out for about 20 minutes. Then install together. Criss cross inside out tighten the manifold and wipe off any excessive bleed out. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! You have no gasket and an aluminum manifold on a steel block, so you could easily snap that manifold. I would tighten snug, but I wouldn't torque it down.
I wouldn't keep this as a permenant fix, but like I said, if I were 2 weeks away from parts, and needed my car running, I would order the correct gaskets, do this and then when I got the gaskets, tear it down, clean it up and do it the right way.





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#6
shellbuyer;63452 Wrote:[quote=hyena429;63449]


It was a 2v and still has the 2v heads with an aluminum Edelbrock manifold

http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/1240/1...tId=746656 These are the jaspers you need then...With that aluminum elderbrock manifold you dont really need the turkey pan on it...Its just not needed..I had a long talk with their techs about it...And like they said..It was just for the crossover...which your new manifold covers it up...Not needed...If it was the factory stock one...I would say use the turkey pan...Some do anyways thou....but those gaskets will get you down the road...Same ones im using for my cleveland...and only 19 bucks.
guys72Mach1;63453 Wrote:In a pinch you would probably be better off with no gasket and just using gasket maker on both the block and the manifold. 20 years ago that was all the rage and everyone was preaching about how great it was. I never bought into it, always had great success with Felpro and Permatex 2B sealant. If it was something skitchy, I'd use 3-M gorilla snot with the Fel pro gasket.
But if I was 2 weeks out on parts and needed to get my car runing, I would get the block super clean, then wipe it down with some alcohol or solvent. After it dries for a few minutes, put a bead of gasket maker on the block, then a bead in the same spot on the manifold. iI may help to put a light bead on the block, then lightly set the manifold on and then pull it off. That way the silicon while mark the exact spot on the manifold.
Re-apply the light bead on the block and on the manifold and then let it sit out for about 20 minutes. Then install together. Criss cross inside out tighten the manifold and wipe off any excessive bleed out. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! You have no gasket and an aluminum manifold on a steel block, so you could easily snap that manifold. I would tighten snug, but I wouldn't torque it down.
I wouldn't keep this as a permenant fix, but like I said, if I were 2 weeks away from parts, and needed my car running, I would order the correct gaskets, do this and then when I got the gaskets, tear it down, clean it up and do it the right way.

{thumbs up}
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#7
One thing you need to remember, you're putting an aluminum manifold on an iron head. They have completely different heat expansion characteristics/rates. So whatever you use has to provide for some slip. If you make the gaskets I would use something like the gasket cinch or some other contact type gasket sealer on the head side and a thin coat of silicone sealer on the manifold side.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
Don C;63459 Wrote:One thing you need to remember, you're putting an aluminum manifold on an iron head. They have completely different heat expansion characteristics/rates. So whatever you use has to provide for some slip. If you make the gaskets I would use something like the gasket cinch or some other contact type gasket sealer on the head side and a thin coat of silicone sealer on the manifold side.

Thank you guys for all the input, I decided to wait and get a set of gaskets.
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#9
shellbuyer;63466 Wrote:Thank you guys for all the input, I decided to wait and get a set of gaskets.

I think that is the best thing to do. Smart thinking!!

Doc

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#10
Here in America, you can get an MRI within 2 hours of a doctors note...ask me how I know!!!

But, if you want a gasket for a 351C you have to wait 2 weeks!!!

Screw Obama care...I want Cleveland care.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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