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Installing a new turn signal
#1
Hey guys,

The recent time I had with my car I spent on installing new turn signal hardware. Nice little project so far which I am documenting here:

http://vincentmustang.blogspot.nl/2017/0...art-1.html

The "Quick coupler" is so far the biggest PITA simply because I find there is nothing quick about it... 

I was wondering about a few things that others may have come across...

1) The wire (thick black strip) was initially inside the bracket, quite stuck. Anybody replaced it the same way or have you routed it outside?
2) If inside the bracket, was the bracket easy to remove? (without removing the dashpad) (There are actually 2 brackets I believe)
3) I bought a Scott Drake replica, I find the cable to be too short to reach exactly like the old one. Anybody else share this experience?

I'm talking about the brackets in the middle of this photo:

[Image: IMG_4359.JPG]

They are simply called bracket A and bracket B according to this image from Haynes:

[Image: IMG_4385.JPG]

I'd like to hear other people's adventures in this area :-)

Thanks,
Vincent.
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#2
I replaced mine last year. The wiring harness should be routed inside the bracket on the bottom or underneath the steering column. I had no problem with it being to short. I did loosen the steering column to help with replacing it, but you don't have to remove dash. Not sure what you mean by "quick coupler".
I'm not sure if the harness I got was a Scott Drake though.
run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#3
Oh sorry, "quick coupler" is the name for the electrical connector.

Did you just loosen some nuts or remove the brackets?
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#4
I just loosened it a bit.
run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#5
I replaced mine last year, the one thing I ran into, was which one to buy, I went with the most expensive one and feel it was worth it. fit like a glove. I dropped all those brackets, they fit together in a strange way, but made to be adjustable? Just go slow, it does make sense once you see how it all fits together, and yes the loom fit under the brackets. Good luck!!
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#6
I replaced mine recently, and the biggest issue I had was matching up the colors (being red-green color-blind made it a fun challenge).  I also went with a Scott Drake unit about a year ago - and it's only just now settled in to where I don't have to 'wiggle' the signal stalk to get the left signal light to stop flashing after it's clicked back into 'center' after completing a left turn (Man, that's annoying).

I found it was easier to simply drop the column by removing the 3 bolts holding the 'U-shaped' bracket up to the dash assembly ("Bracket B" in the illustration).  You have it apart this far, dropping the column will offer a lot of space.  You also might need to remove the bolts holding the column in-place at the firewall - I believe mine remain yet uninstalled (since I'm still working on things under the dash like my speedometer cable and some more LED lights).

I'm surprised to see the signal harness connector on the right-side of the column - mine is on the left-side, with the wiring draped over the top of the column.  I wonder if there are some other zip-ties or twisting-up of the harness preventing that wiring/connector from extending closer to the column.
Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]

See my Frankenstang Album on FB.
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#7
Eric, are you saying the Scott Drake wasn't working properly? I bought a Drake Undecided Why did you have to match up wires? Mine has the connector attached already.
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#8
Now I need to look again - mine came with a bunch of butt connectors and no plug.  Mine's also a tilt column, and it looks like yours might not be.  There's actually no way to stuff the connector through the tilt mechanism.

Nope - I got mine from NPD (since OMS doesn't have a '70-'72 tilt-column switch listed)... and mine's not a Scott Drake.  (just looked)

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/m...5-443.html

I had some minor issues with the wire colors while I was installing, partially because the sun was getting lower in the sky and visibility got worse as I went (along with my color vision issues).  I only got 3 of the wires wrong (all dealing with left-front, right-rear, and hazards).  Not to mention the difference in the shades of the new wires vs. the original factory wiring.

The turn signal issue is purely a quality control thing, IMHO.  The 'neutral zone' is so small between left and right turn on the switch, that if the switch doesn't make it to the absolute 'zero-center sweet spot,' one of the signal light sets will be flashing.  Like I said though, it's getting better with more use.  I wish I could just take the switch apart and make a very subtle adjustment to that particular section, but I'm sure I'd wind up destroying the whole thing and then I'd be out another $110. Wink

Hope that answers your questions.  thumb
Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]

See my Frankenstang Album on FB.
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#9
This is the one I got. My column is fixed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SM44F-Turn-Signa...VX&vxp=mtr
run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#10
Yes it does though I still wonder about the wire length. Maybe it will be better once I get it running through the column. I'll try to lower it. It's a straight column, no tilt.
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