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Install Engine, Transmission, and Headers
#11
The hardest part about installing headers is getting them into place, along with the gaskets, and getting the bolts started. I would leave the header bolts loose so you have some wiggle room with the headers, in case you need it. Not that hard to tighten them down after the engine is in (unless you're using Stage 8 fasteners). Lift up on the outlet end of the headers when tightening the bolts, may gain you 1/2+ inch of clearance.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#12
Thanks everyone! Engine and transmission are out now. Transmission will be getting rebuilt and then everything will go in.
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#13
Jack the back end up...……… Hmmm, why didn't I think of that! Oh well next time (I hope not!)
I put my 351C 4V in with the 4 speed attached. Didn't have the leveler, but I used a 1.5 ton low profile jack under the tailstock and lifted the trans while lowering the engine. Bit of a pita, but no real issues with two people.
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#14
One thing on any engine install that saves any grief later is to run the engine on a stand or dyno first. That lets you know there are no leaks, everything lines up and good to go.
How many of the million dollar shops do you see on TV they are in a crunch put the engine in and crap is running out everywhere and they can't get it started. I saw one of them go in I think three times before they got it right. Professionals, lol.
An engine run in stand is not expensive and sure saves a lot of headaches of putting engine and trans and everything in and then take it out again.
My friend that does restorations has one and always runs the engine before in the car. Timing set correct, cam and rings broke in nothing to do when in the car but go.
Check around someone might have one to rent or loan.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#15
(07-08-2018, 04:24 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: One thing on any engine install that saves any grief later is to run the engine on a stand or dyno first. That lets you know there are no leaks, everything lines up and good to go.
How many of the million dollar shops do you see on TV they are in a crunch put the engine in and crap is running out everywhere and they can't get it started. I saw one of them go in I think three times before they got it right. Professionals, lol.
An engine run in stand is not expensive and sure saves a lot of headaches of putting engine and trans and everything in and then take it out again.
My friend that does restorations has one and always runs the engine before in the car. Timing set correct, cam and rings broke in nothing to do when in the car but go.
Check around someone might have one to rent or loan.
David

 Good points David.
 In my case, the engine had been broke in on a test rig by the engine shop prior to me taking it home, so it was basically already set up.
 The point is this, if you have a shop build it, have them test it. If it blows, it's their dime. If you build it yourself, then it's your dime, so do it right as suggested.
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#16
It all went in with no problem. Just had to remive the tower braces. Unfortunately no one had a stand that I could rent. Thanks for the help!
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