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Ignition switch problem
#11
OMS;106937 Wrote:
goodnigh;106844 Wrote:
marks73;106814 Wrote:And it's OMS by a nose! but they are both correct!

Brings up another issue. What is the purpose of the rod
and what cars came with it? I have been told it was a
rare option.

mike

Mike the lock out rod came on every 71-3

Although it is called a lock out rod by most guys, it is a safety devise
The main purpose for it is so you can kill the ignition while driving
[ emergency / throttle sticks ] and not lock the steering wheel.

On 3 and 4 speed cars you need to put trans in reverse to remove the key
On auto trans cars , needs to be in park.

How would a guy go about, say, hooking something like that up to something like an AOD swap, for instance? Is it something that could just be blown off, or is it something else I'm going to need to figure out?

(Sorry to steal the thread, 1971Mach1 - I promise I'll bring it right back Wink )

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#12
On the 5-speed swap I just removed the rod that went from the column to the trans. I've had no problems... yet Big Grin

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#13
1971mach1;107489 Wrote:The lube would be in the key cylinder, am I right?
The key works fine when it's cold in all positions, except the spring doesn't return it to "run" after i release it from the "start" position.
Thread back from the dead. Mine just started doing this as the weather got cold. Did you get this resolved and how? Can I avoid taking apart the column and get some cleaner in there and then graphite "lube" or take the thing apart?
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#14
[/quote]
Thread back from the dead. Mine just started doing this as the weather got cold. Did you get this resolved and how? Can I avoid taking apart the column and get some cleaner in there and then graphite "lube" or take the thing apart?
[/quote]

What would be the fun of not being able to take it apart? chili
Sorry, man! I couldn't resist.
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#15
Thread back from the dead. Mine just started doing this as the weather got cold. Did you get this resolved and how? Can I avoid taking apart the column and get some cleaner in there and then graphite "lube" or take the thing apart?
[/quote]

What would be the fun of not being able to take it apart? chili
Sorry, man! I couldn't resist.
[/quote]
It's funny. As I wrote that I knew that I would probably be taking it apart and thus learning more about the ignition system and steering column then I ever thought I would,
And, keeping Don in business when I break something therin and have to order a new part.
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#16
OMS;106782 Wrote:The return spring is inside of the ign switch

Remove the plastic column cover to access the linkage rod
You can pop the rod out so you can move the switch rod and key assy
by hand to see which is tight

ALSO check the lock out rod - have had them cause binding before too, if they are not in the correct spot.

The proper place for my lock out rod is in the scrap metal bin!

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#17
Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.

Scott Carpenter
Amsoil Authorized Dealer
www.scsynthetics.com
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#18
scarpent1;202503 Wrote:Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.
I'm thinking that this is exactly what someone did.
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#19
Twins;202505 Wrote:
scarpent1;202503 Wrote:Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.
I'm thinking that this is exactly what someone did.

Just picked up a 73 yesterday that has the same issue. Key not returning after starting. Did you get this resolved without taking apart the steering column?
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#20
Bdrennan;206530 Wrote:
Twins;202505 Wrote:
scarpent1;202503 Wrote:Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.
I'm thinking that this is exactly what someone did.

Just picked up a 73 yesterday that has the same issue. Key not returning after starting. Did you get this resolved without taking apart the steering column?
Sure did. Contact cleaner carefully sprayed in there. No WD40! DRy type lube and all seems to be well.
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