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Ignition switch problem
#1
The spring that makes the key return to "run" after "start" won't return. It just stays in "start" position (and cranks the starter) unless I turn the key to "run" manually. It's on the 1971. Could be coincidence but it began having this problem after it got cold here (like 35 degrees,,,, ok cool for you snow guysWink). Maybe something's binding up or need some kind of lube?? Any ideas appreciated.

1971 Mach1
351C-4v
C6 is history-->>now TKO-500
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#2
1971mach1;106779 Wrote:The spring that makes the key return to "run" after "start" won't return. It just stays in "start" position (and cranks the starter) unless I turn the key to "run" manually. It's on the 1971. Could be coincidence but it began having this problem after it got cold here (like 35 degrees,,,, ok cool for you snow guysWink). Maybe something's binding up or need some kind of lube?? Any ideas appreciated.

Sounds like it mite need took apart and lubed...Dirt and stuff over time getting in there and mixing with the old lube and turning into a little bit of glue..Could be part of the issue or all of it...Or you could get a can of that dry lube i think and spray in there...Grafite or whatever...our local postoffice has to do it alot on our old lock..lol...Im sure some one will be along with the right product or good idea...I never had to by it yet...But i think it needs a dry lube of some kind...That is think Wink
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#3
The return spring is inside of the ign switch

Remove the plastic column cover to access the linkage rod
You can pop the rod out so you can move the switch rod and key assy
by hand to see which is tight

ALSO check the lock out rod - have had them cause binding before too, if they are not in the correct spot.

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#4
Could also be the reverse lockout rod is binding under the stearing column.
Happened to me. Mine did not stick as you descibe but the starter would
randomly engage when I was not touching the key. Assuming you have
that mechanism.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#5
And it's OMS by a nose! but they are both correct!

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#6
marks73;106814 Wrote:And it's OMS by a nose! but they are both correct!

Brings up another issue. What is the purpose of the rod
and what cars came with it? I have been told it was a
rare option.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#7
goodnigh;106844 Wrote:
marks73;106814 Wrote:And it's OMS by a nose! but they are both correct!

Brings up another issue. What is the purpose of the rod
and what cars came with it? I have been told it was a
rare option.

mike

Mike the lock out rod came on every 71-3

Although it is called a lock out rod by most guys, it is a safety devise
The main purpose for it is so you can kill the ignition while driving
[ emergency / throttle sticks ] and not lock the steering wheel.

On 3 and 4 speed cars you need to put trans in reverse to remove the key
On auto trans cars , needs to be in park.

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#8
Thanks guys.
I put a small heater inside the passenger compartment for about an hour to see if it was related to the cold weather.
It works normal, so cold IS making it malfunction. Maybe the spring doesn't work when it's cold??

1971 Mach1
351C-4v
C6 is history-->>now TKO-500
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#9
Or the lube is gumming up due to the cold?

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#10
The lube would be in the key cylinder, am I right?
The key works fine when it's cold in all positions, except the spring doesn't return it to "run" after i release it from the "start" position.

1971 Mach1
351C-4v
C6 is history-->>now TKO-500
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