• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Idler arms. Anyone use a Rare Parts 20250
#1
[Image: IMG_1859.jpg]

Above is a picture of an OEM arm on top and mystery import on the bottom.

Anybody try the Rare Parts brand idler arm?

How about the Opentracker roller one?

I am not too crazy about the mystery import one I have.  One of the bushings seems like it is not pressed in all the way.  Looking at other repo ones online it seems like the bushing might be pressed in that's way by design.

I might try the Rare Parts one, or I might get new bushings for the stock one I have.


Thanks!
Peter
  Reply
#2
(03-05-2017, 08:07 PM)Bentworker Wrote: [url=https://ibb.co/nASCva][/url]

Above is a picture of an OEM arm on top and mystery import on the bottom.

Anybody try the Rare Parts brand idler arm?

How about the Opentracker roller one?

I am not too crazy about the mystery import one I have.  One of the bushings seems like it is not pressed in all the way.  Looking at other repo ones online it seems like the bushing might be pressed in that's way by design.

I might try the Rare Parts one, or I might get new bushings for the stock one I have.


Thanks!
Peter
 Peter,  this was posted on recently. I purchased one from NPD part #3355-1 pro grade. It is a good part geometrically, but the top hole needs to be slotted upward. This is noted with the instructions if I remember. Bit of PITA, but the idler works well and has grease nipples top and bottom. I believe it is US made, but not sure now of the brand.
Just as a suggestion.
Geoff.
  Reply
#3
I ordered up the 3355-1A from NPD. I'll post pictures once it shows up.
  Reply
#4
(03-06-2017, 11:00 PM)Bentworker Wrote: I ordered up the 3355-1A from NPD.  I'll post pictures once it shows up.

 3355-1A is for a 1970. It may be the wrong geometry for a 71-73. Also taking a second look at your picture, the one you say is OEM may not be. I think it's been changed before because the definitely original one I took off my 71 had no grease nipples at all, just rubber bushings. It was for a manual s/box and I was changing to P/S, but comparing the two, the fitment was the same. (I don't have an original P/S idler arm to compare, so you could well be right with your part.)
In a previous thread ( not sure how to locate it on here) we had gone through the geometry issue. Basically, a member was concerned because the old and new part didn't look  the same. It was explained that as long as the center lines of the 2 bushings were the same distance apart as the original and the angle was the same plus the top of the drag link bushing was at the same height relative to the center of the bottom bolt hole, it mattered not where the position of the bottom bushing was. in other words, the arm between the bushings was a different shape.
The 3355-1 Pro grade was exact relatively other than the shape of the arm and having to slot the top hole. Why it was not made correctly is beyond me unless it is also used on applications other than Ford. I don't think there was a manufacturer's name on it.
Anyway Peter, I hope that the part you ordered will work out. I'm curious if it will.
Geoff.
  Reply
#5
While most of the other unibody Fords used different arms for M/S and P/S, the 71-73 Mustang used the same idler arm for both applications. I don't recall seeing any of the OE Ford arms with grease fittings. The Ford part numbers (in order of supersession) are D1ZZ-3350-A, D1ZZ-3350-B, and in 1975 the final replacement D3ZZ-3355-A. A pink paint daub or stripe was the color ID.
I found the post Stanglover was referencing and he provides some excellent info concerning geometric angles and how the dip stick length is also needed for the correct part!    https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-idle...ion--25289

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
  Reply
#6
(03-07-2017, 11:38 AM)secluff Wrote: While most of the other unibody Fords used different arms for M/S and P/S, the 71-73 Mustang used the same idler arm for both applications. I don't recall seeing any of the OE Ford arms with grease fittings. The Ford part numbers (in order of supersession) are D1ZZ-3350-A, D1ZZ-3350-B, and in 1975 the final replacement D3ZZ-3355-A. A pink paint daub or stripe was the color ID.
I found the post Stanglover was referencing and he provides some excellent info concerning geometric angles and how the dip stick length is also needed for the correct part!    https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-idle...ion--25289

 Steve, thanks for finding that post. The part Roadwarrior is showing is incorrect as the relative height from the top of the drag link bushing is off by quite a bit. Slotting the bottom hole may not be the way go, but I don't have time right now to double check what part he had. I know the USA made part I have from NPD does match up exactly other than that damn top hole that does need to be slotted.
Too funny about that darn dipstick!! (but a reader would have to go back to that earlier post to get it)
Geoff. aka stanglover
  Reply
#7
I agree that the Moog idler arm appears to be incorrect. I looked it up on their website and it is the one they show.

Because the support end bushing/pivot is moved away from the bracket by the angle it is attached to it will change the steering geometry. The OEM bushing/pivot is in line with the bracket.

The ones shown by OMS, NPD, and NAPA (especially their Rare Parts line) all appear closer to the OEM style.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#8
(03-07-2017, 02:29 PM)Don C Wrote: I agree that the Moog idler arm appears to be incorrect. I looked it up on their website and it is the one they show.

Because the support end bushing/pivot is moved away from the bracket by the angle it is attached to it will change the steering geometry. The OEM bushing/pivot is in line with the bracket.

The ones shown by OMS, NPD, and NAPA (especially their Rare Parts line) all appear closer to the OEM style.

 I'm not sure who makes the NPD part ,#3355-1, but they do sell Rare Parts steering parts. I bought a new pitman arm and it is marked with the diamond shape logo and the R/P for Rare Parts. I guess a call to NPD would answer that question if someone had the desire to do so.
  Reply
#9
Hmmm. I have the moog one sitting in the basement. I will have to check it out tonight and compare to the original on the car.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#10
Aftermarket Roller idlers will no help center the steering from turns as oem was used for. Rollers idler may create bump steer problems
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
Wrench Total Control & Street or Track & Global West Strut Rod & Lower Control Arms mustang7173 36 9,081 03-28-2017, 01:19 PM
Last Post: 73pony
  suspension parts toastintx 4 617 02-06-2017, 09:26 PM
Last Post: toastintx
  New suspension and steering parts for '73 convertible JD79 7 775 01-30-2017, 09:48 AM
Last Post: JD79
  Idler arm Fitment issues 14jaskew 2 724 06-15-2016, 05:19 PM
Last Post: 14jaskew
  Roller Idler Arm TommyK 6 1,443 06-02-2016, 09:42 PM
Last Post: tony-muscle
  Idler Arm question Blmeis 19 3,276 04-08-2016, 08:42 AM
Last Post: basstrix
  control arms, etc.. woodsnake 6 1,172 03-06-2016, 02:28 AM
Last Post: woodsnake
  Roller idler arm/ bearing available? RacerX 4 983 02-14-2016, 05:06 PM
Last Post: droptop73



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)