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Idler Arm Rebuild, pressing in bushings, Is this OK?
So I got new MOOG bushings from Rock Auto to rebuild my stock Idler Arm. 
The part numbers actually came from HEMIKILLER.

The MOOG #K8094 replacement bushing is noticeably larger than the stock bushing I pressed out of the Idler Arm.
The stock bushing measures 1.14 in diameter while the new MOOG bushing measures 1.18.

I was afraid of starting the process and getting a bushing stuck half way in or something.

My dads machinist friend says that this size difference is not that big a deal and that the bushing will pull in and compress.
[Image: 20191104-175430.jpg]

Any thoughts?
.040 interference is an awful lot to me but my experience is from aircraft. Maybe someone here can shed more light on this but I would not try to press that in.

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.
1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air
1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air
1987 Bronco II
2014 F150 Supercrew
freeze the bushing, boil the arm.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
[+] 1 user Likes Jeff73Mach1's post
Jeff73Mach1 Wrote:freeze the bushing, boil the arm.

it will press right in.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
They sure didn't press right in, like say the front bushing on my leaf springs.
It stripped threaded rod trying to press it in.  No way in the vise.  Bent my vise handle with the aluminum pipe I put on it for leverage.
Took it down to the local auto repair guy and he pressed them in for $30.

Quick comment that I guess I never realized.  I never realized that, like the bushing on the right, when the center has all the little teeth on it that dig into the washer,
it is actually spinning the metal sleeve within the rubber.  The sleeve is tight to the washer and nut.

The bushing on the left however, just has the shaft going thru it.  The metal shaft on this side is spinning inside the metal sleeve.

How tight should this nut on the left be?  I assume tighten it down until you can't spin the shaft, then back it off a little. (followed by a tack[Image: 20191107-143958.jpg] weld on the nut)
The rubber protruding from both ends of the left bushing actually grabs the washer and makes the washer rotate under the nut.
This seems like it's going to be a lot of wear on the washer spinning under the nut?!
Use two washers

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
(11-08-2019, 02:01 PM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: Use two washers
Duh...that'll do it...thanks
(11-08-2019, 06:03 PM)andy72 Wrote:
(11-08-2019, 02:01 PM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: Use two washers
Duh...that'll do it...thanks
Both washers spin.  I'm gonna drill it and cotter pin the nut.
That way I can snug it up in the future as the rubber bushing ends compress and wear.
My two cents worth. There is now way you ever have .040" press fit on anything...... 
A solid dowel pin of 5/8" will only have .0001" - .0002" press fit. I could see maybe .003" press fit on that thin wall bushing with rubber in it. Even roll pins only have .001" press and they can collapse. 
Heating and freezing the parts only changes maybe .001" - .002" which is nothing. If the original is .040" smaller and it was a press fit the new one has to be incorrect.
It is the wrong bushing in my opinion. 
I would back up and start over.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Earlier, I just skimmed through this, not really taking much notice, but after re-reading it and David's reply, I would definitely agree with David that something is obviously wrong size wise. Even if the intent was to create more compression on the rubber inner barrel, .040" or 1mm is way off as far as interference fits are concerned. Normally .001" on a pin for instance, needs a press to push it in. .002" is a tight fit. I'm surprised the casting did not crack in this case. 
Is this a case of " Oh well, good enough, make it fit!" 

 I learn something new every day!
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