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idler arm
#1
Just got my idler arm from Mustangs unlimited..Raybestos K 8165 and I have 2 questions:
#1 the part that bolts to the frame has a slight curve in it just above the arm....does this matter? My old one was straight.
#2 Where do the 2 metal washers and rubber washer go. They are the same diameter as the stud in the drag link.
I did some research and K 8165 is the correct part number, but this new one is slightly different.
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#2
#1 Doesn't matter
#2 It sounds like it is a bit different than OEM. OEM has integral rubber on top and bottom of Idler arm at the center (drag) link pin. Washer on top of idler arm, over pin, then castle nut and cotter pin.

Sorry, not much help. Chuck
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#3
That is the same one that I used on my car...had to grind down a little where it fit against the frame rail in order for it to sit flush. Other than that works fine.

c9zx;192041 Wrote:#1 Doesn't matter
#2 It sounds like it is a bit different than OEM. OEM has integral rubber on top and bottom of Idler arm at the center (drag) link pin. Washer on top of idler arm, over pin, then castle nut and cotter pin.

Sorry, not much help. Chuck

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
  Reply
#4
jeff8877;192044 Wrote:That is the same one that I used on my car...had to grind down a little where it fit against the frame rail in order for it to sit flush. Other than that works fine.

c9zx;192041 Wrote:#1 Doesn't matter
#2 It sounds like it is a bit different than OEM. OEM has integral rubber on top and bottom of Idler arm at the center (drag) link pin. Washer on top of idler arm, over pin, then castle nut and cotter pin.

Sorry, not much help. Chuck
Mine will sit flush without grinding anything, but the holes are a hair off. If I insert one bolt through the frame and onto the arm and try to insert the other bolt, it won't go. The hole needs to be a little better aligned. The old arm was "modified" by slightly enlarging the top hole on the arm bracket. Since the metal on the arm bracket is very thick, and I don't have access to a drill press, would slightly opening one set of holes on the frame be advisable? I have searched for info on this subject and did see a cjponyparts thread where it said some drilling may be necessary to align the holes. Also still wanting to know what order the 2 metal and one sponge washer go on the arm.......Huh
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#5
Danno;192595 Wrote:
jeff8877;192044 Wrote:That is the same one that I used on my car...had to grind down a little where it fit against the frame rail in order for it to sit flush. Other than that works fine.

c9zx;192041 Wrote:#1 Doesn't matter
#2 It sounds like it is a bit different than OEM. OEM has integral rubber on top and bottom of Idler arm at the center (drag) link pin. Washer on top of idler arm, over pin, then castle nut and cotter pin.

Sorry, not much help. Chuck
Mine will sit flush without grinding anything, but the holes are a hair off. If I insert one bolt through the frame and onto the arm and try to insert the other bolt, it won't go. The hole needs to be a little better aligned. The old arm was "modified" by slightly enlarging the top hole on the arm bracket. Since the metal on the arm bracket is very thick, and I don't have access to a drill press, would slightly opening one set of holes on the frame be advisable? I have searched for info on this subject and did see a cjponyparts thread where it said some drilling may be necessary to align the holes. Also still wanting to know what order the 2 metal and one sponge washer go on the arm.......Huh

I would not mess with the holes in the frame. Either get busy with a small round file on the idler arm or send it back and find a local source for the arm so you can compare it to the original. Chuck
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#6
c9zx;192659 Wrote:I would not mess with the holes in the frame. Either get busy with a small round file on the idler arm or send it back and find a local source for the arm so you can compare it to the original. Chuck

+1
  Reply
#7
c9zx;192659 Wrote:
Danno;192595 Wrote:
jeff8877;192044 Wrote:That is the same one that I used on my car...had to grind down a little where it fit against the frame rail in order for it to sit flush. Other than that works fine.
Mine will sit flush without grinding anything, but the holes are a hair off. If I insert one bolt through the frame and onto the arm and try to insert the other bolt, it won't go. The hole needs to be a little better aligned. The old arm was "modified" by slightly enlarging the top hole on the arm bracket. Since the metal on the arm bracket is very thick, and I don't have access to a drill press, would slightly opening one set of holes on the frame be advisable? I have searched for info on this subject and did see a cjponyparts thread where it said some drilling may be necessary to align the holes. Also still wanting to know what order the 2 metal and one sponge washer go on the arm.......Huh

I would not mess with the holes in the frame. Either get busy with a small round file on the idler arm or send it back and find a local source for the arm so you can compare it to the original. Chuck
Thanks, I will not touch the frame holes. I gave the arm to a buddy to see if he could "modify" one of the holes so it would fit. Worst case scenario is I will have to re-order the arm because it got effed up during the "modification" process.
  Reply
#8
Danno;192859 Wrote:
c9zx;192659 Wrote:
Danno;192595 Wrote:Mine will sit flush without grinding anything, but the holes are a hair off. If I insert one bolt through the frame and onto the arm and try to insert the other bolt, it won't go. The hole needs to be a little better aligned. The old arm was "modified" by slightly enlarging the top hole on the arm bracket. Since the metal on the arm bracket is very thick, and I don't have access to a drill press, would slightly opening one set of holes on the frame be advisable? I have searched for info on this subject and did see a cjponyparts thread where it said some drilling may be necessary to align the holes. Also still wanting to know what order the 2 metal and one sponge washer go on the arm.......Huh

I would not mess with the holes in the frame. Either get busy with a small round file on the idler arm or send it back and find a local source for the arm so you can compare it to the original. Chuck
Thanks, I will not touch the frame holes. I gave the arm to a buddy to see if he could "modify" one of the holes so it would fit. Worst case scenario is I will have to re-order the arm because it got effed up during the "modification" process.

It will work fine unless your friend goes overboard. Chuck
  Reply
#9
The arm I ordered from West Coast Classic Cougar was a direct bolt on. No mods needed.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.
  Reply
#10
Totalled;192888 Wrote:The arm I ordered from West Coast Classic Cougar was a direct bolt on. No mods needed.
They are out of stock on this part per their web page. I will wait to see how the "modification" turns out.................thanks
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