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Ideas Where To Buy Engine Block?
#31
(01-12-2020, 12:59 AM)icejawa Wrote: Still looking
Patience Grasshopper!

All good parts will come in their time.  I have been collecting parts for 20 plus years.  When desperate you can pay premium for the same part that is free or $20 at the next swap meet circuit.  We all do it.  When the shop gets too crowded or we get restoration burnout, we let those shop corner anchors go just to see the floor again.

Good luck.  Keep searching the forums and think outside the box.  Mustang forums, boss forums, West Coast Classic Cougar, truck forums, Mercury forums, Pantera forums, Torino forums.

I was looking for a reverse lockout rod fro the original Hurst shifter for years.  I saw Ebay prices hit $300+, then one day I found a bead blasted original unit that I ended up winning for $50.

Keep your eyes peeled and keep asking.
kcmash
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#32
I agree with patience. It took me a year to find one within a 4-hour driving distance. I just wanted a block and was not interested in the date code. I lucked out and got a standard bore '72 Q code 4-bolt engine.

Even when you do find the correct date code block it still won't have the correct partial VIN.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#33
Just saw on Facebook DOAE Clevelands for $400.

Some Guy named Robert Martin Clevelands Forever 351C.net.  I can find it on my phone but not on the PC.

kcmash

https://www.facebook.com/groups/26376874...887927685/
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#34
havent seen any yet, figured i would keep checking here too
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#35
(03-08-2020, 08:45 PM)icejawa Wrote: havent seen any yet, figured i would keep checking here too

The "Clevelands Forever" Facebook group has a lot of members claiming to have a lot of blocks. You should try joining and asking in that group.

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#36
I was added to that group today, a few people have messaged me. Since my car was "actually built" on Oct 1970, according to the Marti report, would I need a block from 1970?
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#37
(03-11-2020, 10:44 PM)icejawa Wrote: I was added to that group today, a few people have messaged me. Since my car was "actually built" on Oct 1970, according to the Marti report, would I need a block from 1970?

Yes, anything from Sept 1970 to about two weeks prior to your actual build date would work.


[+] 1 user Likes Hemikiller's post
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#38
(03-12-2020, 12:23 PM)Hemikiller Wrote:
(03-11-2020, 10:44 PM)icejawa Wrote: I was added to that group today, a few people have messaged me. Since my car was "actually built" on Oct 1970, according to the Marti report, would I need a block from 1970?

Yes, anything from Sept 1970 to about two weeks prior to your actual build date would work.
+1 if you want to say that the engine is "period correct." Otherwise, it doesn't matter. My car doesn't have the original engine but it is still considered period correct because the engine casting date is about a month before the car's build date.

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
[+] 1 user Likes tony-muscle's post
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#39
Are the 351C 2V and 4V engines the same except for the heads and intake? If I remember correctly they're both 2 bolt mains
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#40
Nope. Many of the 4v blocks have 4 bolt mains. My original 72 4v engine has 4 bolt mains. The 2 bolt main blocks can be machined to be 4 bolt. I would think that the 2v engines had 2 bolt mains, but not sure. They may be both like the 4v motors.

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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