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I think I just blew up my A/C
#11
(07-02-2019, 03:37 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: Today I went for a high performance drive during lunch break. It was hot out so I had the A/C on. While accelerating down the highway at some point I lost A/C. A few miles down it started to feel hot inside and could hear a noise from the hood. The noise went away after I turned the A/C off so definitely something was wrong. I just had accelerated to about 6,500 rpms so I had the feeling that I had overrevved the compressor. I guess I didn't think about it before. Before I had only gone to about 6,300 rpms. Once I got home I could see the mess. Oil everywhere, the high pressure hose burst, and the compression nut of the low pressure fitting was completely off. I believe that the system over pressurized and broke. The fact that the coupling nut of the fitting was off makes me think the pressure went pretty high. It was not that it unscrewed itself because that should have released the pressure and should not have caused the hose to burst. The coupling nut is aluminum so I assume that enough pressure expanded it to push it past the threads. I feel dumb now for not having thought about the RPMs of the compressor. My compressor is a York and now reading the spec it says 6,000 rpm  Shootself Angry . On top of that I probably had overfilled the system with refrigerant. My question now, do you think the compressor is done? Am I looking at a new compressor besides the hose? What else should I be worried about? Maybe it is time to upgrade to a whole new system from Classic Auto Air or similar? Can one of these be revved up to 6,500 rpm?

These pictures shows the burst hose. I had already screwed the low pressure fitting nut back in. As you can see the burst is coincidentally very close to the steering fluid radiator. This radiator is attached to the compressor so there shouldn't be independent movement between them, but I wonder if the hose could have moved and touched the radiator and caused it to burst, but unlikely due to how close it was to the fitting. Also, it could simply be that it was the hottest spot on the hose.

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what is copper steel wool coming from fitting Huh
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#12
(07-04-2019, 09:03 AM)B229218 Wrote: what is copper steel wool coming from fitting Huh

I dont think so but i can look at it more carefully once I am back. It may be the reinforcement of the hose.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#13
(07-04-2019, 09:02 AM)B229218 Wrote: You CANNOT use r134 with older compressors, they are not rated for higher pressure that the newer freon requires. I went through same issue years back on 1977 460/york style r134 combo. put a sanden unit on or spend$$$ and convert back to r12.
This is a newer York compressor for R134

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[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#14
(07-03-2019, 01:35 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: that classic auto air system is great. I love the video from autoediits. I like the electronic valves instead of vacuum controlled.

Does this system gets fresh air from the outside or not? I see there is a block off plate.

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[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#15
(07-04-2019, 09:02 AM)B229218 Wrote: You CANNOT use r134 with older compressors, they are not rated for higher pressure that the newer freon requires. I went through same issue years back on 1977 460/york style r134 combo. put a sanden unit on or spend$$$ and convert back to r12.

Hmmm. That's not what i have heard or seen...
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#16
(07-04-2019, 02:00 PM)7173Vert Wrote:
(07-04-2019, 09:02 AM)B229218 Wrote: You CAN use r134 with older compressors,however  they are not rated for higher pressure that the newer freon requires. I went through same issue years back on 1977 460/york style r134 combo. put a sanden unit on or spend$$$ and convert back to r12. The old piston works, eat. do not like higher head pressures for long. That is what blew my converted system out back in 2004. ur results may vary of course.

Hmmm. That's not what i have heard or seen...
Well, from what I have read/been told by a/c  mechanics/installers, as well from outfits like old air products, ect., is the old compressors use  pistons, the newer sanderns rotary. rotary is better suited for rpm, and is designed for higher head pressure. R 132 is not as efficient a heat exchanger as R 12 was, consequentially R 132 requires 20-30% higher system pressure to operate well, this is where piston compressors start to fail, esp. when it is very hotter outside.
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#17
(07-04-2019, 07:46 AM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: You don't have to disassemble much if you will pull the glove box, the dash cap and the passenger seat everything else can accessed without much difficulty. You will need to take apart the center stack, but that is easy
Does the A/C kit come with a heater core or do you reuse the current? If reusing I guess it is a good time to get a new one just in case.

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[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#18
The one I have used and the one I am installing on a 56 Ford F 100 both utilize their own heater core built into the unit. https://www.oldairproducts.com/

Currently about 2/3 of the way through the install. The hoses have to be cut to length and crimped and I have a little more wiring and duct work to complete. Nice unit with all electric controls.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#19
(07-08-2019, 09:14 AM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: The one I have used and the one I am installing on a 56 Ford F 100 both utilize their own heater core built into the unit. https://www.oldairproducts.com/

Currently about 2/3 of the way through the install. The hoses have to be cut to length and crimped and I have a little more wiring and duct work to complete. Nice unit with all electric controls.
For the one in the Mustang, do you have to remove the old ducts in lieu of the flexible ducts in the kit?
Also, i see there is a plate to seal the cowl intake opening. So where does it take the fresh air from? Or it doesnt?


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[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#20
It doesn't, which is why I decided to not install one, instead refurbishing my heater box and new core. Living in the northwest means fewer hot days, and it's not my daily driver. If I were to move back to Las Vegas I would kick myself for not having installed one, fresh air or not Smile



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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