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I need pics of the underside
#1
I am specifically looking for pictures of the underside of the car on a rotisserie.
I need to see how the brake lines and fuel lines run thru the tunnel to the rear.

I would love a shot like this, but with the brake lines still attached.

[Image: underside-on-rotisserie.jpg]

i KNOW I have seen pics like this on someones build thread, and I have been looking thru them the last 2 hours, but I cant find them.

Hopefully someone will have a better idea than me.

Thanks for the help!

Jim

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#2
Don't quote me on this, but I think the brake line routing can vary a bit depending...

I got new lines from Classic Tube, and was wondering why the hell the line for the rear brakes took a different route than the one that came off my 71'. They took the same path except for the last 18" or so of tube under the drivers side rear seat.

Someone on here with their baseball statistic like knowledge of mustangs will probably pipe up with an answer why the routing varied. The old line on my 71' was in the way of installing a drivers side muffler hanger. Who knows… maybe it was a dual / single exhaust thing, or maybe the goofy routing was an early 71' thing.


Good luck & I'm sure someone will chime in with some photos.
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#3
(01-01-2019, 07:53 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: I am specifically looking for pictures of the underside of the car on a rotisserie.
I need to see how the brake lines and fuel lines run thru the tunnel to the rear.

I would love a shot like this, but with the brake lines still attached.

[Image: underside-on-rotisserie.jpg]

i KNOW I have seen pics like this on someones build thread, and I have been looking thru them the last 2 hours, but I cant find them.

Hopefully someone will have a better idea than me.

Thanks for the help!

Jim

No full view pic of the underside, but this may help....

The two lines below are the brake andfuel vapor lines. The feul supply line ran along the rocker pinch weld.
[Image: 20160822-095916.jpg]
[Image: 20170308-081957.jpg]
[Image: 20160916-164129.jpg]


[Image: 20161130-133948.jpg]
You can see the feul line down the drivers side rocker and the brake and vapor lines down the tunnel and across the axel.
[Image: 1973-ford-mustang-rear-axle.jpg]

[Image: 1973-ford-mustang-undercarriage-1.jpg]

[Image: 090212-351.jpg]

[Image: 090212-352.jpg]

[Image: 1973-ford-mustang-frame-rail.jpg]
Drivers side fuel and brake lines.
[Image: 1973-ford-mustang-front-wheelwell-1.jpg]
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#4
Ok so looking at your first pic,.....

It looks to me like there are no clips holding the line till well after the transmission. Is that correct? I

My biggest concern was getting to those clips. The ones after that I have no problem getting to.


So far the Classic Tube lines have been damn near exactly correct. I got the Disc lines in Stainless. I just wish I had NOT gotten Stainless because regular brake tools will not put a flare in that tough stuff. I need to put a Different Fitting on the rear feeder line because my Wilwood Proportional valve has all 3/8" fitting on it and there are NO adapters for the 1/2" to 3/8" made. I have searched. If there are some they are well concealed on the internet.

I am going to have to figure something out on that tomorrow. I am going to start by calling all the restoration shops around the area and see if they have a tool for stainless brake lines. Otherwise Im going to have to cut the line and use a swagelock compression fitting, stainless of course. I hate to use a non approved fitting but I know from years of experience that a Stainless swagelock fitting will take 3000+ psi without failure. I was hoping to cut my old original line and put the correct fitting on it to get the car going but the line is so corroded and rusty that there is no way it will take a flare and seal.

So either way I am going to have to go ahead and run the rear feeder line NOW instead of later. Im trying to get this job done so my son can use the car to go to college next week. We have been working on it all weekend doing the front lines. Which would be a simple 2 hour job with the engine out, but with it in, has taken us the better part of 3 days. Im old and cant wallow on the ground working under the car anymore, and my son (19) is a total green horn working on cars. He is also totally freaking out taking apart his car, a totally irrational fear that he cant get it back together. With me guiding him, and him doing all the under car work and ground work, which has been maybe 90% of the job, he has got it done. He is just Very slow. It doesnt help that everything is rusted to shit and damn near every bolt has taken way longer than it should to get out. He won't let me take the hood off for fear of not getting it lined up right going back on. so were having to work around that. We couldnt get the strut brace off the other day, but I figured out how to get access to the nuts underneath it today and we got that off. Which made things so much easier. Of course none of the parts stores have any usefull brake line fittings in stock that would help things. So I have been struggling with that as well. I finally came up with a viable solution for the master cylinder lines today. Thats all set. I still havnt worked out exactly how were going to mount the proportional valve yet. I will cross that bridge when I get to it.

Of course all this would have been no problem if I had access to a lift. It all would have been much simpler.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#5
(01-01-2019, 10:05 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: Ok so looking at your first pic,.....

It looks to me like there are no clips holding the line till well after the transmission.  Is that correct? I

My biggest concern was getting to those clips. The ones after that I have no problem getting to.

There is a clip up front near the bell housing and then on past the trans tail and then another before it bends up to the rear well. I could get specific measurements and pics tomorrow.

Here are few more of the fuel line from back to front
[Image: 20160727-165501.jpg]

[Image: 20160724-121202.jpg]

[Image: 20160724-121239.jpg]
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#6
One thing I have noticed doing this project that really disturbs me. I can tell now that the car has been hit in the passenger front side now that we have been working on it. Things just dont line up quite right, close but not there. Another thing we noticed is the door gaps. The front clip is sagging when on jack stands. We had it on stands behind the front tire yesterday and the gaps in front of the door disappeared at the bottom and the door was touching the fender. Up at the top it was much wider. Once we got it off the jack stands it went back to where it was, but that much movement really disturbs me and makes me wonder if there is some nasty rust inside the front torque boxes.

We put the jack stands in front of the tires today just in front of the lower control arm and the gaps held to their normal spacing, which is 1/8" at the bottom and 1/4" or a bit more at the top. The passenger side gaps are worse than the drivers side. So Im thinking the passenger side front took the hit. That and you can see where they drove screws into the fender to pull it out. You can only see them on the inside of the fender.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#7
On the sagging. That is pretty normal. I have a California vert 73 with 48,000 miles. It is original paint and pretty much rust free. Not a hole in floor of body anywhere. When I lift it on the two post lift with pads under the torque boxes and front leaf spring eye you cannot open and close the doors because of the body sag. That is why when doing panel replacement it is very important to support the chassis in correct plane for repairs.
Seems like that is one of the laws of physics, equal and opposite reaction. The body has to bend unless you turn off gravity.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#8
Thanks David,

That makes me feel a bit better.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#9
Thanks David,

That makes me feel a bit better.

It makes me wonder where the weak spot is. I suppose it is where the front frame rail welds to the unibody. I wonder if the front clip frame from Total Control Products would fix that. I talked to them a while back and they told me they would gladly make a front clip frame for a 71-73. They just need someone to send them a car for a month to do the prototyping and install it on the car. He said they could do the complete thing with subframe connectors and coil over conversion for about $7-8k. I wish I had the money to do it right now. But maybe someone will and it will go into the catalog.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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