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I am scared to put another cam in her
#1
Alright brothers, I got it started early and I will leave you with a complete run down to ensure I don’t miss anything.
Went to parts store to get pcv valve to help pressure, went ahead and got my rebuild kit for my carb while I was there.
When I got home I pulled the plugs and checked, (Again this motor had less than 3 or 4 hrs running) they were nasty, a lot worse than they needed to be. I started to check pressure, and noticed a few where only hitting around 115, while the rest where 135-140. So I put them back in and fired it up and that is when it sounded like a bag of marbles was released. So I pulled the covers and noticed the 3rd cy (P side third back) rockers was way lose, but the rest where fine, or tight that is.
So I knew what needed to happen, and about an hour later you see what happened. That cam was brand new crane, I will leave specs below again, because I have want to ask for thoughts on hyd cam. I am not trying to go stock, but this car will never see a track, and of course street racing is illegal,lol.
I have seen them many times burn through one lobe but three, hey there is a first time for everything. I know my numbers where correct when I built it, but when it rains it pours,lol.
I am in need of some good parts, and need someone to throw me a bone on where to go too many places are good for some and horrible on others.


Cam int .280,/ valve int .485 /advdur 284*timdur int 208*/ open -3*BTC close int 31*/over lap 62*/ center 107*

I am scared of putting too big of a cam in there after this happened could use some help to ensure I can focus on the prize at hand.

Maybe I made the mistake by not changing my push rods, or I am overthinking this way beyond what I need too


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1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#2
Congrats on keeping calm and diagnosing it properly!
Before installing any other cam, I'd strongly suggest tearing the engine down for a complete bath.
Sure, it'll run without cleaning. Actually, may not ever hurt a thing. I just know I wouldn't try it, cause my luck plain ol' sucks! Smile
Most of those tiny, hard iron fragments are still in the engine and can cause nothing but heartache down the line.

Need to know what intake, carb, rear gear and converter is in the trans before thinking about other bumpstick specs...

If choosing a flat tappet cam, use specialty break in oil an/or GM "EOS" .
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-88862586
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...ber=476990
The web is filled with recommendations on break in sauces for the crankcase, and most seem to revolve around zinc content. And, everyone has an opinion on what is best.
The last junkyard 302 that Dad and I put together years ago ate its new FT hydro cam in under 1K miles. This was before we knew of the zinc free standard oils. Lesson learned.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#3
+1 to new camshaft failure due to low ZDDP zinc levels during break-in.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#4
it is a standard eldelbrock performer intake, with a 1406 carb (600), standard gear (2:75) for now 3:55 collecting dust in the garage. I will be using break in oil without a doubt, that stuff cost more than my kids birth together, but hey I don't remember trying to have to put my kids back in their mother. The trans is normal (FMX), and I am not wanting something that will rip out the rearend even with the new gears. Just like the extra, you know. I spent a lot of time reading numbers for cams but I think I overlooked an area which is the cause for taking it back out, Thank you

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#5
Cool, looks like excellent street component choices!
For that 302 that I mentioned, it was in a beater '68 Torino coupe with 2.80 gears and a C4 tranny.
Used a stock bottom end, added this cam kit (it was waaay cheaper at the time):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-13.../make/ford
Lightly ported a set of early, stock 289 heads (slightly smaller chamber for more compression), stock replacement valves, and the STOCK 2 BARREL CARB with manifolds.
Yes, a budget build at its finest.
Chose the cam 'cause I wanted the slightly rumpity idle, and the 2-5000 RPM range.
It ran fine.
Car ran even with my friend's '68 Ranchero and its stock 5.0 HO roller engine with headers and Performer intake/carb. Ranchero was geared tall, too.

If I were you, I'd look at similar specs for the 351. You're limited by its compression ratio and rear gears. I wouldn't exceed 270ish duration, stay under .500 lift and stay above 110* lobe separation (112-114* is probably better), max RPM only a little past 5K. Remember, what you gain on top is what you give up off the bottom.
Again, there's a zillion choices, and everybody will have an opinion on which is "best".
There are no "perfect" cams as far as I'm concerned. It's less critical in a street machine, too, so don't beat yourself up too bad with numbers Wink

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#6
I love those Torinos, I have the break in oil and a few bottle of additive I will continue to run in there. I should not have to change my rods if I keep with the specs you gave me correct. I think I will need to get some new pivots the one that was lose looks rough.

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#7
Are the pushrods and rocker arms the original ones to the engine?
If so, I'd probably replace them with new (pushrods, rockers and sleds, they work together as a team).
I don't recall seeing many OE valvetrain components that I would reuse, even on the cheapest of rebuilds.
Stock replacements are better than worn originals, and they are (were) fairly inexpensive.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#8
If it were my brand new engine and I smoked the cam on break-in, I would pull the whole motor out. All those grindings from the cam and from the lifters is now all through that motor. You could chance it and try to just flush the motor and get lucky. It could run for 10 years or 10 min before it spun a bearing or eats cam bearing out....ect. I know its a pain in the arse but definitely pull the motor, tear it all down, check your main and rod bearings for any scratches, check or replace cam bearings. clean and flush every nook and cranny of the motor and put it back together. That's a lot of metal floating around in a brand new motor. The filter will catch a lot but not all of it. That's just my opinion for what its worth. I have seen guys flush the motor several times with diesel fuel and slide a new cam in and be fine, but I also seen a motor not last 500 miles after that.

I had my valve guides go out and put brass all through one of my brand new motors because the builder put too long of pushrods in and threw the geometry of they valvetrain off and side loaded the valves and ate the guides out. I pulled the heads and the builder rebuilt the guides and got the right length pushrods. I flushed motor well and reinstalled the heads. Ran good for almost 1000 miles. Then I heard a knock, then louder and louder. Spun a main bearing a toasted a few others. And that was mainly just brass in my motor not iron filings from a cam and lifter. You can try what you want but from personal experience I would pull it and clean it all from top to bottom.

Whatever you decide good luck!! And keep us posted on your progress!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#9
Do NOT overlook another very common mistake: running an aftermarket cam with stock style press-fit rocker studs. High lift cams will pull the studs right out of the head and cause all kinds of problems.

My friend once brought his '67 Coupe with a 289 to my garage to swap in a Comp Cams 280 Magnum hydraulic flat tappet cam I was selling in order to upgrade to a roller. We swapped it in and it didn't even make it home... rocker studs pulled out.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
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#10
Yeah the shavings are pretty bad, but you know what I could care less. I am probably going to flush it throw a cam in it and sell it, might just leave it as it lays, I have onwed this car for 8 years, and I have put 12K into it and only driven it 1 mile. I am sure there are some that will get on their soap box and try to tell me about hot rodding, but at some point you have to understand to walk away. This blows like none other but hey it happens, and I cannot see myself spending anymore time with something that has drug me the whole way. I know car guys it happens but it won't stop you from getting on here and telling me again.

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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