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How well do you trust your service manual?
#1
I went in thinking I could use the service manual as a 'Mustang Bible' of sorts, but I don't know anymore. I mean don't get me wrong, I know most of the information is accurate and its some good stuff, but when I went to go pull my rear drums off, it messed with me a little.
Mind you, I have never messed with drums or brakes really before.
I removed the front drums with no problems, then got to the rear. Ok, pretty easy stuff so far. Then I get to this "Remove the three drum retainer nuts and remove the drum" Huh. Ok I guess. Look for these 'drum retainer nuts' to no avail. So I spend an hour going back and forth trying to google these things and search the manual, and trying to pry it off. I was worried I would break something if I didn't find these mystical nuts. Eventually I figured I'm replacing everything anyway, so I'll just beat the hell out of it. Comes off with a lot of beating and prying, like the front. OK then.
So what I want to know is, how many of you have come across 'errors' like this? Now I know these nuts could have been there back in the day on the original drum (then again, this thing looks like its from 1973) I just found it weird I couldn't find anything online about it or on the actual car. Maybe I just missed something.


Short story: Anyone else dealt with misinformation from the service manual?
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#2
The drum retainer nuts were put on at the factory.
Usually the person to remove the drum the first time, never puts them back on.
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#3
Our 2002 Jeep Liberty manual gives the incorrect number of head bolts for torquing. I think someone copy/pasted off of the v8 version. If you are not paying attention you will torque the crap out of two much smaller bolts!

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#4
The manual and Don are correct. This is what your car came with:
http://www.championfalcon.com/images/Hardware/F-579.jpg

Don is also correct in most people didn't replace them. They were used in the assembly line to keep the brake drums on until the wheels were mounted.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
cfrance729, the nuts the service manual was referring to were the spring nuts the factory installed on the lug studs. Shop techs were divided on their purpose. Some claimed brake drum retention on the assembly line and others to quiet drum squawk when some cars were put into gear. (Some claimed both) As Don stated, most were left off during routine maintenance. I had a 429 car that I actually had to install one on each rear brake drum stud the noise was so bad. It worked!!


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Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
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#6
It is dead wrong with regard to removing the front shocks.
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#7
I have not had an opportunity to check the 71-73 manual in regards to this, but I can speak for the 1969 Ford Servicer manual in regards to the template for the bow location of the convertible top. I had some issues with my 69 convertible top so I was working with the shop owner on the frame of my 69 vert. I made up the template as per the manual for the bow locations ahead of time and gave it to him when I brought the car into the shop. We spent close to 30 hours removing sections that were wracked / bent and straightened them out and re-assembled it so it folded correctly.

When he got to the point of installing the new top, he mounted the template to set the #2, #3 and rear bows - it mounts using the hanger screw hole location - he kept having issues with the rear panel with the glass window lining up properly. It set the bow too low. Finally he decided to check some different manufacturer data and found the service manual template was for a rear panel with a plastic window. Turns out there is a 1 1/2" +/- difference in where the rear bow is located depending on whether you have glass rear window or plastic. If he would have used the service manual template location, there would have been black material showing at the top of the window where it meets the main top fabric.

He re-cut the template to the proper dimension for the glass window and everything lined up perfectly. Normally an installer will use the old top as a template for positioning the fabric and bows and never need the wood template, but initially my original top fabric went missing during an episode with a bad shop. The top intallation when pulled it out the bad shop and took it to another shop was not the best and after 6 years I decided it was time to get it done properly.

I do not know if the 71-73 service manual template is correct or not, but Ford did re-design the convertible top frame and fabric which now allowed the top to be put doen without unzipping and folding the rear window. I've never had an issue with mine or noticed anything out of alignment with any 71-73 convertible I've ever looked at during shows and cruises.
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#8
Bill73Ragtop;276824 Wrote:I have not had an opportunity to check the 71-73 manual in regards to this, but I can speak for the 1969 Ford Servicer manual in regards to the template for the bow location of the convertible top. I had some issues with my 69 convertible top so I was working with the shop owner on the frame of my 69 vert. I made up the template as per the manual for the bow locations ahead of time and gave it to him when I brought the car into the shop. We spent close to 30 hours removing sections that were wracked / bent and straightened them out and re-assembled it so it folded correctly.

When he got to the point of installing the new top, he mounted the template to set the #2, #3 and rear bows - it mounts using the hanger screw hole location - he kept having issues with the rear panel with the glass window lining up properly. It set the bow too low. Finally he decided to check some different manufacturer data and found the service manual template was for a rear panel with a plastic window. Turns out there is a 1 1/2" +/- difference in where the rear bow is located depending on whether you have glass rear window or plastic. If he would have used the service manual template location, there would have been black material showing at the top of the window where it meets the main top fabric.

He re-cut the template to the proper dimension for the glass window and everything lined up perfectly. Normally an installer will use the old top as a template for positioning the fabric and bows and never need the wood template, but initially my original top fabric went missing during an episode with a bad shop. The top intallation when pulled it out the bad shop and took it to another shop was not the best and after 6 years I decided it was time to get it done properly.

I do not know if the 71-73 service manual template is correct or not, but Ford did re-design the convertible top frame and fabric which now allowed the top to be put doen without unzipping and folding the rear window. I've never had an issue with mine or noticed anything out of alignment with any 71-73 convertible I've ever looked at during shows and cruises.
That is so funny the 1965 bow template is also off. I cut mine out of plywood probably 35 years ago according to the Ford manual and was no where near where it should have been. You mount with the screw that puts the chrome coat hanger hook on the frame.
I also found error in the Ford Factory manual for the 1985 SVO mustang I have. When I replaced the TPS and took manifold off to clean and put back I needed to purge the fuel system of air. The manual said to go to the PASSENGER seat and there was a wire connection under it. You unplugged and shorted across two specific terminals to make the fuel pump run continuous. I could not find a plug so I pulled the seat, NO PLUG, I pulled up the carpet NO PLUG. I could not get the car to fire and needed to be ready to drive to Florida. So I had the dealer come get with a roll back and take in. I told the service manager that this was the first time a car of mine had ever gone to the shop I always fix my own. When I told him what I had done he started to laugh. The plug is not under the passenger seat as the manual said. He went to the drivers side pulled the plug out took a paper clip and jumped the two terminals and the car fired right up, DAMN. Now the thing was still not running right so he hooks up the computer and it says the TPS is bad. I showed him the box and the receipt where I had just bought it from them. It was bad out of the box. He replaced with another and it still was not right so he hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and we drove down the road. If I recall it had over 100 lbs. of fuel pressure all the time when it was built to have one lower pressure when no turbo and then when the turbo was kicked in the pressure with jump up. It was staying on high pressure all the time. So the Fuel pressure regulator was bad. It was like 30 min. before closing and he said it was hour an half job to R&R. I looked at it and said if you will let me borrow the allen wrench I think I can do without removing the manifold. In less than 15 min. I had it changed and all was good.
Some of the over the counter manuals have errors also. The Haynes or maybe Helms manual for 71-73 mustang says to pull the front cross member out to remove the oil pan. There is no removable cross member...
People write these things and there are and will be errors.
On the Pal nuts, push nuts or speed nuts on the rear. Ford back in the 50's had three maybe 1/4" bolts holding the drum on their trucks. I don't see how it could reduce any noise?? The rears came in from vendor on racks and yes I agree they were there to keep the drum from falling off in transport and assembly.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#9
Interesting stuff, thanks guys.
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