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How to strip my car
#1
I have seen lots of different ways to supposedly strip our cars, but I have been watching a lot of videos lately and nobody shows HOW they strip their cars. I have been told sand blasting warps metal and sand gets in all the nooks and crannies, soda blasting seems popular but hard to clean metal after or something? Then actual dipping sounds like a big no-no becasue it can seep out over time and ruin paint. I understand sanding the big panels is the way to go, but how do you get inside doors, inside frame rails, under trunk lids, door jambs and rockers and so on? Please let me know how you stripped your cars! Thanks!!
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#2
Ok will give you 2 cents worth, lol.
I purchased a 72 Q code vert that was dip stripped about 10 years ago. When I got the car he had it back to a rolling chassis with epoxy primer. He replaced or patched the floors, replace the trunk pan and had the engine bay back to black.
There is absolutely no signs of anything bleeding out of any seams. The dip process does remove all rust, paint, and seam sealer or under coating. He had applied seam sealer to most seams but not around where the convertible top goes. There is no signs of anything coming out of that seam or the pinch welds on the rocker boxes.
If the company that dips the body had the correct tanks to wash, rinse and then phosphate the body and then put in oven to dry out the seams there should be no issue with bleeding. The name of the company escapes me but is located in N.C. and S.C..
No to blasting. Yes Soda blasting has to have through and proper cleaning or you paint be a mess. Plastic media will remove the paint and some filler but do nothing to rust.
I am on another Mustang forum and one of the members just sent his 65 fastback to someone and he swears that they sand blasted it and did not warp it. I have never seen that. I have actually seen a 240 Z that was sand blasted and they simple scrapped it was so warped up.
I have asked the guy to get me a name and location of who did his car. I will go get you a link to his post and you can also inquire. He claims this is the second car they have done for him the first was a camaro.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#3
See if this link gets you to the facebook group. He had the 65 blasted.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=...ater&ifg=1

This is the name of the group. Ford Mustang Archeology 1965-73 mustangs


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#4
(01-05-2019, 10:30 AM)Omie01 Wrote: I have seen lots of different ways to supposedly strip our cars, but I have been watching a lot of videos lately and nobody shows HOW they strip their cars. I have been told sand blasting warps metal and sand gets in all the nooks and crannies, soda blasting seems popular but hard to clean metal after or something? Then actual dipping sounds like a big no-no becasue it can seep out over time and ruin paint. I understand sanding the big panels is the way to go, but how do you get inside doors, inside frame rails, under trunk lids, door jambs and rockers and so on? Please let me know how you stripped your cars! Thanks!!

I just had my 1970 Mustang "dustless" blasted in my driveway. They use water mixed with media and a rust inhibitor. It does not create any heat so there is no metal warpage.  It does create a mess and the media does get everywhere, but it can be blown out when dry. Aside from the cleanup, I am happy with the results and no surface rust developing almost a month later. I am getting ready to prime it.

BTW: it took all day to do the whole car inside, out, and underneath, as well as some extra parts on the side.

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#5
I always wondered about dustless blasting, looks like it worked good.

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#6
I used chemical stripper, followed up by small glass bead blasting. Insanely labor intensive...


If I was to do it over again I would have trailered it to the place that does dipping 5 hours away from me.

They dip it in hot caustic stipper for a long time, rinse, power rinse, repeat if needed, then dip in phosphoric acid metal prep and rinse. No fuss, would have saved me dozens upon dozens of hours.
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#7
My bodyman had mine dipped at a "Redi Strip" facility in Indiana.   http://www.redistripindy.com/

That was back in 2001 or so.  He has done several cars that way.

I have seen no signs of seepage at the seams or anywhere on the car.

kcmash
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#8
LIke other guys have said, the Seeping problem comes from having a half ass operation do the dip. If they do their job right, by properly neutralizing the solution and properly rinsing everything, you should not have any problems with seeping later on down the road.

That being said, I do wish these companies would take things one step farther like the new car manufacturers do and as a final part of the step, dip it in electrostatic etch primer. Most of the new car companies do that now. I dont see any reason why they couldnt incorporate that into their procedure as well.

I have heard good things about this place.

http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/...vices.html

If your on the Left coast, you might want to try this place. This is who Graveyard Carz uses.
http://www.metaldipping.com/faq.php

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#9
(01-06-2019, 12:11 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: LIke other guys have said, the Seeping problem comes from having a half ass operation do the dip.  If they do their job right, by properly neutralizing the solution and properly rinsing everything, you should not have any problems with seeping later on down the road.

That being said, I do wish these companies would take things one step farther like the new car manufacturers do and as a final part of the step, dip it in electrostatic etch primer.  Most of the new car companies do that now.  I dont see any reason why they couldnt incorporate that into their procedure as well.

I have heard good things about this place.

http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/...vices.html

If your on the Left coast, you might want to try this place.  This is who Graveyard Carz uses.
http://www.metaldipping.com/faq.php

The cost to set up a dip primer line would be in the millions and you could never get a payback. The cost to fill the tanks is astronomical. I have worked at facilities with both plating, e-coat, wet paint and powder paint. Powder has the least cost associated with any of them.
E-coat lines have a very small amount of paint in suspension in water in the tanks. The current that is ran through the body attracts the e-coat to the metal. It will not coat inside like between hood and trunk reinforcements. Not enough flow of material inside the confined space.
To get the body clean enough to go into a dip e-coat is something you have to see to understand. There are multiple stages of washing rinsing that you could never do on an old body.
An example of how easy it is to contaminate the solutions would be at John Deere at their combine facility. You can imagine how big the tanks have to be to accept parts for the combines. Like swimming pool size. All of a sudden one day they started getting fish eyes on the finish paint. A rubber wrist band was the cause. One like they give out at benefits say for cancer or something. The amount of silicone in the bracelet was enough to cause the entire paint wash system to have to be dumped and everything cleaned over and over. Cost millions of dollars over a rubber bracelet.
At one of the other John Deere facilities in Greeneville Tenn. they build the John Deere mowers sold at Home Depot and Lowe's. The company I worked for supplied all the stampings including the fender. We get a panic call and they are getting fish eyes in their fender paint which is powder coat for the green. They sent their chemical engineers to our plant and took samples of all or our draw lubes, equipment lubes etc. We took one of the fenders and cut out fish eyes and sent to our lab. They determined that the fish eyes were caused by under arm antiperspirant and even determined the brand. The issue was not in our plant but was John Deere employees that hung the parts on the paint chain. The antiperspirant was falling out of their shirt sleeves onto the parts and the wash system would not remove all of it. So there is an approve deodorant list that the employees can use.
To attempt to run old car bodies that have had Armorall, silicone, grease, oil on them for 40 50 60 years would impossible. That is the reason they do not and will never do that.
If you do get one dipped it is best to apply primer inside the panels with a brush. You cannot spray inside the corners and seams. Nothing says you cannot apply primer with a brush or a roller. A rotisserie works great so that you can run it into the seams.
One of the bad things about dipping a car is that you loose all the mastic that they put between the inner reinforcement in hood and trunk and no good way to get it back to look correct.
Molasses does not remove paint or mastic just the rust. That is why I like it.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#10
I started the stripping process by first installing a pole, then had a pole dancer come over...

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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