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How to apply Rust Mort or other inhibitors?
#1
How do you apply Rust Mort or other inhibitors to the outside surface?  
Does it brush on and then you just primer\sealer over it?
Does it dry on and then you was the panel before primer\sealer?
What brands other than Rust Mort do you recommend?

I will have to do the whole car after I sand all of the surface rust off.  Some of the areas are pretty pitted by rust.  

Thanks
Wade

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
There should be directions on any of the solutions for the use of.
I use a phosphate etch to remove the last traces of rust and it actually etches the surface to promote the paint adhesion. I would suggest that you do sections of the car and not try to have the whole car naked at one time, lol. With all the rain we have you for sure will get flash rust on bare metal.
The way I apply the solution I am using right now is with steel wool or a scotch brite pad. I think the last bottle I got was form the POR distributor. You do wash off with water after applying. I use a heat gun to make sure it is dry even in the cracks quick.
If I were you I would plan on putting a good coat of etching primer on right after you do a section. Might do roof. a fender, hood and keep everything protected. Go on the Mfg. web site and read what they recommend for application. This is what I am currently using. https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep
I would never prime a body in the POR coatings. It is not made for that and is very difficult to sand. It is also very dangerous to spray. If you get in your lungs it reacts with the moisture and hardens in your lungs. I have had bare metal laying around for months with just the Metal Prep on it with no rust issues. I think we are closing in on 100" of rain last year so never low humidity here. There is 3" of water around the garage today. 
In years past I used the DuPont phosphate but they are long gone. Your local paint supplier will know exactly what you need for surface prep and primer.
Even though you are grinding all the surface you should wash with Dawn before starting and also wipe down with lacquer thinner to get any wax or oil off.
Decide on whose paint you are going to use and follow there prep and prime instructions to the letter.
I think your car would look great in the green original color. Just me.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#3
There are some places where I had to use Rust Mort extensively, and it's a good product.  As long as the pieces aren't rusted to the point of inevitable failure, you can use Rust Mort with good results.

Basically, however you can get the product applied, go for it.  I used some in a spray bottle and saturated a few areas, and also used some sponge brushes to hit some other less easily accessible places.  I found the spray bottle worked best for most places.

Following the directions, you'll want to keep the area/piece 'wet' as much as possible for the 'Mort to do its stuff.  It's converting iron oxide into iron phosphate, which will then be sealable/primerable after it's completely dried/cured.  You're looking for the area/piece to be completely black once the process is complete.

If you're able to sand off surface rust and get down to clean metal, you won't need the 'Mort at all.  Just make sure to seal/primer it as quickly as possible once you're at the point to prevent a recurrence.

David also offered up some great ideas of using a heat gun (I'm also thinking hair dryer might be helpful as well) to move things along and get it all dried out before sealing/primering.

If something's pitted badly and it's outwardly visible, you might consider replacing the piece(s) and/or doing some reconstructive surgery (filling the pits with some All Metal, fiberglass filler, or 'Bondo'-like products) before final paint.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#4
DuPont is now called Axalta , you can still buy 5717s metal cleaner (rust remover) and 5518s conversion coating only in gallons. Get the tech sheets. They also have metal prep wipes ps4000 final step before primer on bare metal. RBL products has a similar product. Which is something we used to call a Hinkel Wipe for metal prep not rust removal. A less expensive phosphoric product that works well is kleen strip prep and etch at Home Depot or Lowes. They now call it a concrete cleaner they just started doing that. I scrub it around rinse or wipe with damp cloth,let it dry and sand again with 180.
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#5
[b]Rust-Mort Directions[/b]
  1. Rub the rusted area with a wire brush to remove loose rust. ...
  2. Wear protective gloves and a face mask. ...
  3. Dip a clean, wide paintbrush into the Rust-Mort and allow excess to drain back into the can.
  4. Apply a thin coat of the product on rusted areas, distributing it evenly. ...
  5. Allow the surface to dry for at least 24 hours.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#6
Click on the Technical Data sheet

https://www.semproducts.com/product/rust-morttm/morttm

Yes, I've used Rust Mort, and posted about it's use in several of your threads.


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