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How much should this work cost?
#1
I had my car in the shop and I am finally picking it up tomorrow and the price seems a bit on the high side. The following items were done. Should this cost 3 grand?

Top end removed and rebuilt with new valves.

Timing chain, cam and lifters replaced(I bought parts)

New axel seals on rear end

Rear brake rebuild

lowered front with new springs(I bought parts)

replaced rear shackles(I bought shackles)

Trouble shot and found electrical draw that was killing battery.(two hours)

He bought gasket kit, 4 pushrods, some miscellaneous hardware, rear seals, brake pads and a gable for emergency brake, He had my car for 2 months and I would like to know how much of this bill should be labor. What does a top end rebuild cost?

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#2
Do you know the parts and labor break down? The shop that I have used charges 90.00 per hour for labor.


John J
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#3
Hard to quantify another mechanic's actual labor on any job. There are certainly other mechanics that you could have shopped around for and likely found a "better" price.
However, when judging cost purely on "book rate", you open yourself up to a world of ultimate dissapointment.
Two different mechanics doing the same job can ( and often do) have considerably different results.
The overall skill and integrity of the mechanic along with the quality of his work is at least as important as his ( or his shop's) labor rate. I think it is most important.
Would you rather pay $3000 and have a quality trouble-free result that gives years of satisfaction, or pay only $2,000 to then later discover that certain aspects of that mechanic's work ethic were questionable, or maybe even sub-standard.

I own several auto repair facilities, so obviously I am biased. But...I demand all my techs and mechanics do each job as thoroughly and completely as possible: chasing threads, wire-wheeling reused bolts, torque wrenches on EVERYTHING with a torque spec, Loctite or Antisieze wherever appropriate, etc...
It is the details that make a mediocre job into a great job.

A good, honest and skilled mechanic is worth his weight in gold to a good customer, as well as the owner of the shop he works for.

If that mechanic you used is a concientious and honest one,the few hundred bucks you may have saved somewhere else will soon be long forgotten.
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#4
My only question is, does this sound like 1800-2000 dollars worth of labor content? That would be about 20-24 hours in my mental book and that seems like a lot of hours to do what needed to be done. They had my car 2 months and he is supposed to have reduced the bill for the 6 weeks of extra time my car sat there.

Heads were said to cost around 500 and the rest of the parts about 300 with fluids.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#5
Sorry I can't be of much help because I did all the things you describe myself except brakes and E-brake. The bottom end rebuild cost me $1100 in labor.

If you can post the parts/labor breakdown, we might be able to help a little but it will probably be too late anyway. Sounds like maybe $400 max for the parts he purchased, retail.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#6
What was the original quote?

Is this the engine that the cam went flat in? If so, was it completely flushed of all old oil, including the oil galleys?

After paying 80 bucks (20 years ago) to have a bare 302 hot tanked, then spending another 3 hours removing galley plugs and digging chunks of crud from the corners on the outside of the block... I question everything.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#7
Cam turned out to be o'k but replaced with milder one, valves were jacked on 4 exhaust valves. Guides not reamed properly(he suggested) most likely and stuck partially open. Bent push rods on open valves. Heads were completely torn down and rebuilt, all exhaust valves replaced, not sure about guides(told to do whatever was best). I will see the bill in the morning. My question is about labor. 20 hours to do this work, heads were sent to machine shop.

No original quote because he did not know what was wrong. I am just trying to get a reference point. If someone says 20 hours is close I am done asking assuming you are not pulling my chain. The 2 months pissed me off and then a higher bill than he said last week. He said I was around a grand at that point and then the head rebuild and reassembly and it would be done. So, I went from 1000 in labor to 2000 and brakes, rearend, lowering already in price.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
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#8
Ralph - Based upon my experience doing several of the projects that your mechanic did, I don't believe that a total of 20 hours of labor is outrageous. If the work is quality work, and not a shade tree mechanic special, I could see it taking a total of about 20 hours to complete all the things you mentioned, knowing that our 40-year-old cars can take a lot of "massaging" to disassemble and reassemble those old parts without breaking something.

Just my 2cents.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#9
O'k, thanks. Now lets just hope it runs like a beast. It needs to because my 8500 dollar car will hit 15000 tomorrow

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.
  Reply
#10
rottenralph;196622 Wrote:O'k, thanks. Now lets just hope it runs like a beast. It needs to because my 8500 dollar car will hit 15000 tomorrow

That's a good attitude. Post a pic or video of you sitting on a pillow while romping the Mustang when you get it back. Often, that helps soften the missing lump in your wallet. Not meaning to be flippant - I know what you're saying.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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