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How much HP do you think this build has?
Ok I got into a heated argument with some.."guy"..for personal issues but basically he got pissed that i claimed i made x amount of HP and in reality i didnt. So I want your opinion on how much HP i am making. and to clear some stuff up..I thought that the type of metal used doesnt matter has for as making HP. forged? cast? etc? does forged pistons make more HP than cast? and 2. he said that my build was factory specs so it cant make the horsepower i claimed. which is not true i am sure.

Ok its a 1972 302.

Things changed include:

1. RHS #35012 specs directly from website:
Cylinder Head Style 20°
Valve Angles 20°
Intake Runner 200cc
Exhaust Runner 66cc
Chamber 58cc
Intake Valve 2.020"
Exhaust Valve 1.600"
Valve Length .100" Long
2. H-beam chrome molly conn rods with ARP bolts and bushings
3. 280-duration cam with 110 lobe separation..unknown lift (im guessing .512 passed on a similar cam from comp cams. but i havent asked) hydraulic. "custom grind" brand unknown
4. roller rocker arms. brand? PEP? 1.6 ratio
5. hyper-eutectic pistons flat topped @.020 over
6. Air gap edelbrock intake port matched to heads
7. molly pushrods
8. sealed power lifter set. (hydraulic? im pretty sure)
9.stock motorcraft distributor with GM module and 34 degrees of timing
10. CR raised to 9.75:1 with 135 PSI when you take out the spark plug and check compression
11. 750 Holley carb vacuum secondary
12: doug headers primary tube : 1 5/8in, collector: 2.5. with 2.5 piping an H-pipe and flowermaster delta flow 40's muffler.

The rest not mentioned is assume to be stock parts (crank block etc) and stock measurements. IF you have any other question ill glady answer them. And thank you for playing my guessing game Tongue

and sorry if my big rims offend you people Tongue

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
Do I remember a 302 with 350 to 400 horse? I am not much of an engine spec guy but 1 horse a cube is very standards in builds. 400 might be at the top end of the flow but 350 to be isn't in question. But honesty who cares what someone else thinks about your project. You know if your lying or not. And besides I see 1000 + horse 4 cylinders all the time, cubes can only take you so far. just my two cents.

Yea, Though I cruise through the valley of the Shadow of Rice, I will fear no Turbo, For Thine Torque art with me. Thy forged rods and crankshaft, they comfort me.

Thou preparest a strip before me in the presence of four cylinder enemies: thou anointest my heads with high octane; my quarter mile victories runneth over.

Surely Horsepower and RPM's shall follow me all the days of my life: and I will race on the streets and strips forever.
Ya thats true who cares..its just i guess i want other opinions. Hes a big horsepower dude (which is stupid) but i just wanted to know if i was wrong or he. But i havent dyoned it. its still a fresh build and want to break it in before i dyno it.

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
You may be a little surprised if you get it dyno'ed...
If you're happy with it, and it sounds good, who cares.

We all want more hp, there's always going to be someone with more and someone with less.
I think most of us stopped worrying about things like that...

Some young excited kid at the petrol staition asked me how much hp is it, I just said, dunno, not interested in finding out, and that it's just a sunday cruiser.

[Image: Image3.png]
I would say 275ish horsepower to the rear tires probably isn't far off. Engine tune {carb jetting/ignition timing and curve} can help peak numbers but may affect overall driveability. Sounds like a nice well matched combo.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            

@jim that is really true..because yes i do care bout the numbers but if it isnt what i wanted im not gonna throw some tantrum i have fun with car no matter the HP.

@275 thats good enough for me i do 0-60 in like 4.8 seconds with 3.08 3800 LBS car and a 27 in tall tire..good enough for me

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
well i'm somebody with a dyno proven 626hp with it fresh off the break in. and even since i've tweaked the valve trained for more power. i use every bit of that power at the track and have fun. but when i'm on the street i tell people i have a 429 with about 400hp only so i can get a chuckle.

however, its kind of hard to keep from laughing when they see my NHRA Racer number on both side windows and on my windshield, see a ladder bar suspension, see's a 13 inch wide rear tire on a 11 wide rim, see's that i got a ladder bar suspension, see's 2 inch long tube headers hanging below, then they look inside that i have no interior, i have a full 10 point roll cage, 2 alumium seats with a 5 point harness and seeing a hurst manual shifter in the OEM spot.

i go around the streets saying i got 400hp in all reality i got more than 150% more than that. Big GrinTongue who cares what those people think. BTW, they are probably the usual ignorant chebby people. so ignore them.
The 1970 Boss 302 was rated 290hp at the crank. Parnelli Jones race car was rated 330hp at the crank. These ratings were taken from engine dynos with NO accessories attached and shorter exhaust sustems. This was a mechanical lifter, higher compression engine with Cleveland heads. Your engine was rated at 210hp at the crank and 140hp at the rear wheels...from the factory. Your new heads are still windsor heads and your current compression is still pretty low compared to the 1970 model year. With similiar bore and stroke, despite having vastly improved ignition and valve train components, your current build is not likely to compare to the HP rating of the 1970 race motor "G series". What you have done is made your engine more efficient and more reliable than the stock engine your car came with from the factory. You make more than 140hp at the rear wheels, but probably not more than 175 IMO.
My 351C-2V's go-fast components have somewhat similar specs as most of those.

- 9.5:1 Keith Black hypereutectic flat-tops
- .060" over
- 1.7 CompCams roller rockers, push rods, roller lifters, roller timing chain
- 274/274 duration, 112 lobe, .566" lift CompCams High Energy roller cam
- Hooker Competiton long-tube headers (ceramic coated)
- 2.5" stainless w/X-pipe
- Edelbrock Performer intake
- Edelbrock Performer carb (600cfm)
- Accel Super Coil
- Duraspark ignition system & distributor
- 3-angle valve job, mild porting & polishing, bored, balanced, blueprinted
- stock crank, turned .010"/.010"
- AOD automatic transmission
- 3.00:1 rear gears

With all of that plugged into CompCams CamQuest utility, their calculator says for me to expect 402-ish hp.

You have a 750cfm carb, 9.75:1 CR, and port-matching. I would say you're somewhere in the same ballpark for sure, if not a bit over 400.

Of course, that's just a WAG... but to echo what the others have said, who really cares. It's a bad-ass car and you're happy with it, so screw 'em. Wink


[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
Ya i get you guys its just it bugs me when people just want numbers and it makes me look like a "ricer" because i just talk and no show. I dont street race so i never put it against other cars. But also i wanted other opinions because i specifically asked for it to be a 400 HP motor. So just wanted other opinion to feel less cheated? haha but ya thanks guys alot!!

@mister where is this calculator you speak of?

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
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