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how much can h.p. I build a 351c2v up to and still have a reliable ride
#1
Stop 
my 73 stang has the 351c 2v,H code,fmx trans.,275.1 rear. How much h.p. can I build it up to and still have reliability?I'd like to hear what others have did.Car needs a wake up.
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#2
I think you may Need to be a bit more specific, state intended use and budget. This is a bit of a subjective area. A blown Or turboed 351 couldnt make 1000+ hp and some folks would consider it reliable for other its a boss Or ho spec motor. As for waking it up now get a petronix module and a 3.25_3.5 gear set for the diff and a zero degree timing set,as our 73s are 3 degree retarded from the factory something I learned here.

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise
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#3
Luke;195341 Wrote:I think you may Needs to be a big more specific state intended use and budget. This is a bit of a subjective area. A blown Or turboed 351 couldnt make 1000+ hp and some folks would consider it reliable for other its a boss Or ho spec motor. As for waking it up now get a petronix module and a 3.25_3.5 gear set for the diff and a zero degree timing set,as our 73s are 3 degree retarded from the factory something I learned here.
thanks Luke.Budget up to 3k,would I be able to tell more diff. from the rear gears or the petronix?
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#4
Gears will give you the most seat of your pants bang for your buck. I am running 3.73 and really like them. Might be a little steep if you do a lot of highway driving. But around town they are fun. I had my 351c 2v built to around 425HP and I had around $4000-5000 into it. Very reliable right up until it swallowed a factory valve. Make sure you replace the valves if you plan on spinning some RPM's at all.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#5
The diff gears will make it feel punchier the petronix will also make a noticeable change for least dollars down. I don't know how much things are worth in the states but my guess is you could buy the base petronix module (best in this instance) a 0 degree timing set, re curve your dizzy and find a used gear set for under 3grand. It will feel like a clevo should you could also go for a 4 barrel manifold and a 650-680ish holley. Anything more and you would need to address the crap 8.1 comp ratio for any real gain IMO. Other guys will be along soon with more sound tips and advise. I have cut and pasted below advice Kit Sullivan gave me it works.


Luke, your comment about it being slow is interesting to me. I have always been unimpressed with the '73 version of the Cleveland.
I suggest to modifications that will wake this motor up:
1) replace the stock timing gear set with a "zero degree" set. The factory set on '73s are retarded a few degrees due to emissions concerns and performance suffer dramatically.
2) have your stock distributor blueprinted to bring the dynamic advance in fully by 1800 rpm, and install a simple "Pertronix" electronic ignition module.

These changes will make you feel like you have an entirely different engine. It will also retain a totally 100% stock appearance, will idle smoothly and run like a raped ape.
The Cleveland deserves these changes.

"If it ain't broke...fix it 'til it is!"

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise
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#6
nightmare stang;195342 Wrote:
Luke;195341 Wrote:I think you may Needs to be a big more specific state intended use and budget. This is a bit of a subjective area. A blown Or turboed 351 couldnt make 1000+ hp and some folks would consider it reliable for other its a boss Or ho spec motor. As for waking it up now get a petronix module and a 3.25_3.5 gear set for the diff and a zero degree timing set,as our 73s are 3 degree retarded from the factory something I learned here.
thanks Luke.Budget up to 3k,would I be able to tell more diff. from the rear gears or the petronix?

Nightmare - give us some more info about what you want to do. A few trips to the strip, weekend drags, weekend cruiser, burnout queen, etc. I'm happy with my build for my 2V 351C (see threads) but it may not be what you're looking for. More info would be helpful.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#7
nightmare stang,

Some really good suggestions from the forum members on what your purpose is. I looked some items that might would be good with moderate undertaking. . This is some basic equipment upgrades that should improve the performance of the 351C 2v engine. I believe the 3.25 Gear set would be a nice edition to the drive train. What size is your rear end? 8 inch or 9 inch?

Wow, the prices for these parts are not cheap anymore!

Motive Gear Ring and Pinion Sets F890325
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-f890325/overview/ $170.97

Patriot Exhaust H8412 - Patriot Ford Specific Fit Headers
http://www.jegs.com/i/Patriot-Exhaust/73...2/10002/-1
Patriot Exhaust#737-H8412 : $238.99

FORD 351 CLEVELAND V8
PERFORMER 351-4V & 351-2V (IDLE-5500 RPM)
Performer 351-4V is designed for street 351C and Boss 351 Fords that came stock with 4V carb and heads. Performer 351-2V is designed for street 351C and accepts 4V carb, however it's designed to improve the performance of engines that came stock with 2V carb and heads. Neither manifold will fit Boss 302 or accept stock Motorcraft spread-bore carb. End-seal flange width measures 6-31/32".
Performer 351-2V (non-EGR) - 2750

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2750 $ 264.47

Edelbrock Performer Carburetors 1405
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1405 $ 289.97

Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Sets 7821
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7821/overview/ $52.97

PerTronix Ignitor II Solid-State Ignition Systems 91281
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-91.../make/ford $108.97

Jones Exhaust Traditional X-Pipes XP4
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-xp4/overview/ $24.97

Total without Labor for installation or Tax and Ship: $1151.21


mustang7173
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#8
Ultimate horsepower-producing ability and overall durability are not necessarily functions that go hand-in-hand.
The quality of the components used, the expertise used in installing them, and the overall condition of the adjacent components in the entire system will have have a tremendous effect on the durability of your entire driveline.

For instance, A modern hi-power alternater will not deliver great performance through crappy old wiring or adjacent to a weak battery.
A great new carburetor will not live to it's potential with a stock intake or exhaust manifolds.

a nice 3.73 gearset will not deliver the smooth performance you want with worn out floppy old springs and an open differential.

You could build a mild 250 horse motor that could probably not take even one max-rpm WOT run without grenading, if built without foresight and care.

Or, you could could assemble a potent 450-horse motor that will deliver awesome performance, and bullet-proof reliability. It all depends on your initial plan for the motor.

Problems arise when the engine (and drivetrain) is modified piece-meal, one step at a time with out each choice being a fully thought-out part of an overall plan.
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#9
Kit Sullivan;195440 Wrote:Ultimate horsepower-producing ability and overall durability are not necessarily functions that go hand-in-hand.
The quality of the components used, the expertise used in installing them, and the overall condition of the adjacent components in the entire system will have have a tremendous effect on the durability of your entire driveline.

For instance, A modern hi-power alternater will not deliver great performance through crappy old wiring or adjacent to a weak battery.
A great new carburetor will not live to it's potential with a stock intake or exhaust manifolds.

a nice 3.73 gearset will not deliver the smooth performance you want with worn out floppy old springs and an open differential.

You could build a mild 250 horse motor that could probably not take even one max-rpm WOT run without grenading, if built without foresight and care.

Or, you could could assemble a potent 450-horse motor that will deliver awesome performance, and bullet-proof reliability. It all depends on your initial plan for the motor.

Problems arise when the engine (and drivetrain) is modified piece-meal, one step at a time with out each choice being a fully thought-out part of an overall plan.

Very true.

Also, it is also easy to build an engine that is powerful and durable but no fun to drive in traffic. As a broad brush number I find that to be about 1 RWHP per cubic inch of displacement in a naturally aspirated vehicle. Other people find cars to be a pain by about .85 rwhp/ci but the young or really hard core put up with much more power per ci. How much and where you plan to drive are big factors in the hop up game.
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#10
Here's the updated list from My Garage:

- Rebuilt the 351C-2V with:
-- .060" bores w/9.5:1 Keith Black hypereutectic flat-top pistons
-- CompCams Roller cam 274/274 w.566" lift (.218/.218 @.500" on 110 lobes)
-- CompCams Roller "Everything" (1.73 Rockers, lifters, rods, rod guides)
-- Crane Cams screw-in 7/16" rocker studs
-- Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock Performer 600CFM carb
-- 3-angle valve job & hardened seats (rebuilt the stock 2V heads)
-- Chrome 'stock' oil pan, Edelbrock valve covers
-- Holley "Black" electric fuel pump
-- Duraspark ignition conversion w/Accel Super Coil & 8mm wires
-- Hooker Competition Ceramic-coated Long-Tube Headers
-- Pype 2.5" stainless exhaust w/X-pipe - Pypes Street Pro mufflers

Hope that helps!

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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