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How important is the convertible torque plate?
#1
I have a 73 convertible and am going to be doing some work to it that may include exhaust reroutes and such. The convertibles have a torque plate (maybe the wrong term) just behind the transmission.

How long can I drive around without this in place? I have weld on subframe connectors, do I even need the torque plate anymore? Ford wouldn't have put them on if they were not needed. I assume since the convertibles didn't have the support of a hard top these added some kind of rigidity?

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#2
On a vert you want everything that helps keeping it rigid, so I would say Keep it on. As you said Ford put it there for a reason.
I wish that subframe connectors were legal in my country so I could put them on.

[Image: 1z21rv4.png]

Mike

"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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#3
you need it, unless you have a cross bar tied into the sub frame connectors that does the same job as that plate. guys that took it off without some other form of re-enforcement twisted the frames over time. Verts are very soft in the middle you need original and then some to make them stop flexing.
the hard tops are not much better in all honestly.
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#4
Okay, you all think a 15 mile drive to my exhaust guy and then another short drive to a customizer who would modify/replace the plate would be okay?

Also, I was wonder what you all thought about adding some spacers to it. Get some 1/4" piece cut for both side and some longer bolts. I think if I drop it down a little I will be okay space wise.

Lux, that is a shame they won't let you put them on. Our friends in Switzerland said they are also limited to what they can do.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#5
Will, your car is solid so 15 miles would be fine

Spacers and longer bolts may weaken the effectiveness

You can add a plate / structure inside of the car too, like the one made for the early cars. Plus the original "spacered " plate

Item #3647Y
65-68 SEAT PLATFORM CONVERTIBLE
Convertible one piece seat base panel, covers both driver and passenger side seat bases. Use this raised platform to reinforce floor, reduce body flex and secure seats.

You would just need to make the over the tunnel plate
Then use the spacer / bolts on the underside plate

Or can your fabricator guy make some cross braces out of tubing
You could do 3 bolt in tubing braces VS the large plate
Muffer shop guy might be able to make something too
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#6
65-68 seats bolt down differently than 71-73s, so keep that in mind it thinking about the modification.
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#7
judge;159426 Wrote:65-68 seats bolt down differently than 71-73s, so keep that in mind it thinking about the modification.

I showed the P/N as an example

I advised he would need to make the plate over the tunnel
" You would just need to make the over the tunnel plate "

It would be way to much work to try and used the 65 - 8 platform parts in a 71-3
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#8
will e;159402 Wrote:Okay, you all think a 15 mile drive to my exhaust guy and then another short drive to a customizer who would modify/replace the plate would be okay?

Also, I was wonder what you all thought about adding some spacers to it. Get some 1/4" piece cut for both side and some longer bolts. I think if I drop it down a little I will be okay space wise.

Lux, that is a shame they won't let you put them on. Our friends in Switzerland said they are also limited to what they can do.

Why will it be necessary to modify/replace the plate after the exhaust is done?

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#9
That's my question too, why can't the exhaust guy remove it and reinstall it? I'm running 2-1/4" exhaust above the plate and have enough room to go to 2-1/2".

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#10
Yeah, I don´t know what the size of those exhaust tubes will be but they can easily fit above the plate.
The stock setup was that way too.
Here´s what my car looks underneath. The exhaust is a 2 1/4 repro exhaust, Edelbrock mufflers and Hedman shorty headers.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=12344]

[Image: 1z21rv4.png]

Mike

"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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