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How do you paint this?
I am in a dilemma.

The proportioning valve leaked when putting everything together, and as brake fluid goes, it ate the paint below.  I read up on brake fluid and tried to clean the area with warm water and soap to stop the carnage.  Now I need to replace the paint in this tight area, which is where i need help.

My options:

1) Find a way to spray the paint in this area and not destroy the finish on everything around it.  (Any Suggestions here?)

2) Find a way to brush it on for solid corrosion protection. (Don't know the best way to do this)  Is there a good, durable, single stage, brushable chassis black that I can use.  I saw a Rustoleum brushable enamel at ACE earlier, but was unsure that it may not last.  (Acetone/mineral spirit cleanup)

3) Remove/Dis-assemble the engine and surrounding parts to have spray gun access.  (Shoot me first!)

What do you suggest?  I would like to paint today if I can.

You can see the area of concern in the photos below.

Thanks!  kcmash
[Image: 20180331_090145.jpg]

[Image: 20180331_090041.jpg]

[Image: 20180331_090204.jpg]
Fortunately, the stripped area looks fairly small, and contained to the flat spot of the frame. I would just touch it up using satin POR 15. Easy to apply and extremely resistant to gas, brakefluid, coolant once dry. You can use a small foam brush from ACE or home depot. Just be sure to remove all oils and residue. Soap and water works but also use paint thinner or acetone on a rag wiping only the area you are touching up. It will look good and last a long time. Spray cans are too messy and have no durability. gun painting is way too much work! The rustoleum brush on is not as durable as POR, it does look good and applies just like POR. If that is what is available would make a good second choice.
Once you are done with can, put a piece of plastic wrap between the lid and can or you will never get that lid off again!!

movie stars with addictions go to the Betty Ford clinic,
I take my addiction to the Henry Ford clinic.Haha
I tried something here.

I used the Duplicolor  Automotive Engine bay enamel and did the following.

First I wiped the area down with lacquer thinner to clean and degrease.

I got a cheap foam brush and sprayed the foam on the brush until it started to drip.  I quickly brushed the area for coverage and am letting it dry.

Don't have any POR 15 anymore or know where to get it locally.


[ Find a way to spray the paint in this area and not destroy the finish on everything around it.]
[Spray cans are too messy and have no durability. gun painting is way too much work!]
At this location, if you need spray, its gonna take either a long while to remove/tape everything yes...

Or a trick I use to mask/protect crowded locations with loads of small details for paint (air gun or can), is to steal my wife's aluminium foil roll.
You can wrap all the small thing very tight, and no tape needed. If you spray it will not fly away, will let nothing thru and will not react to solvents.
For the rest with a can, all that is in 1 a 2 meters of the to be painted location, use big sheets/plastics. In case of gun, cover the entire car as well, and ventilate the room as much as you can while busy.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
I always have a quart of urethane based black chassis paint on the shelf for touch ups from road chips, etc. Local automotive paint store will mix whatever flattener requested when I get it (usually add 20% flattener). Proper cleaning and foam brush sounds like it would work well in the area you're dealing with.

That area is down low and probably will not be too noticeable.
I would agree with the others comments on a good cleaning and then a foam brush to apply. If you can raise the car up enough to get underneath it may be easier to apply from below versus trying to navigate the path from above without bumping or dripping. Good Luck (not meant in a sarcastic way).

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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