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How do I treat this surface rust?
#1
This rust is all over the body.  It all sands off but what do I spray over it?  Do I need to treat the body with something after I get the rust smoothed out.  Epoxy primer?
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Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
Try POR15 Metal Ready. Its a phosphoric acid wash that will eat that rust off. Then you need to epoxy prime it, high build prime it, sand it till your hands are numb, then paint.


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[+] 1 user Likes jowens1126's post
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#3
You cannot blast with sand or anything like it or car is junk. I use molasses tank to remove the rust but you have to treat with phosphate immediately or it will rust. If you get feed grade molasses and mix 9 to one with water it will remove the rust. I have a 275 gallon bulk chemical tank that I use to remove the rust. It does work an very great. I have panels in garage that have been bare metal for 6 months with no rust. I treated with phosphate right after molasses.
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lucy poems summary


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
[+] 1 user Likes Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs's post
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#4
+1 on David's molasses solution, I just did some con rods and heads that were quite rusted and came up a treat
For a simple de-oxidiser use a vinegar spray diluted 50/50 and keep wet for several minutes, better to work it in with a Scotchbrite, rinse well, dry and get some epoxy primer or phospate onto it ASAP.
[+] 1 user Likes OzCoupe72's post
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#5
I had similar rust issues with my 71 when I bought it. I mechanically removed as much rust as possible with a DA, then used SEM's Rust Mort to kill the rust that was remaining. Fifteen years on, nothing has resurfaced.


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#6
(10-22-2018, 06:38 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: Try POR15 Metal Ready.  Its a phosphoric acid wash that will eat that rust off.  Then you need to epoxy prime it, high build prime it, sand it till your hands are numb, then paint.


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For this stuff what do I do spray it on with a bottle, let it sit then hose it off?

For the molasses: 
isnt it thick sticky and messy?  
Where do you get it?
Where do you get the phosphate?
Is the phosphate liquid?
Mix it and spray it on with a bottle?

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#7
does the poor 15 and\or molasses remove the "rough to the touch" surface rust or do I still need to mechanically sand it first and then apply to remove any surface rust left behind that isn't "rough to the touch"?

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#8
Heavy rust like that you need to get off as much as possible before applying the acid. You also have to keep it wet for it to continue working. I found that the thin plastic drop cloths worked great for this. Spray the panel down well and lay a piece of the plastic over it. The plastic keeps it from evaporating and the thin material conforms to the panel nicely.

David's molasses solution is a great idea, but not everyone has a place to store a large plastic container like that.

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep
https://www.semproducts.com/product/rust-morttm/morttm


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#9
I totally agree with Hemikiller.

The way I used it was......  
I sprayed it on straight, used 400 wet/dry sand paper and lightly wet sanded it with the acid.  Then I wiped it off, and started again.
If that isn't doing much, spray it on, cover with plastic, check it every 10-15 mins by removing the plastic, wet sanding, then wipe it off.  Repeat till you have clean metal.
You shouldn't have to use anything more coarse than the 400 with this product.  It works amazingly well.  

When I did my engine block, I barely had to do anything, spray it on, wait 10 mins rinse it off a couple of times and it was shiny metal.  

You just don't want to leave it on too too long.  It is acid after all and you don't want it to cause any pitting you will have to fill.  Just start in a small area and use your best judgement.  It really is an amazing product.

This is another good product too.  Its called Eastwood After Blast.  Its similar to Metal Prep.  It also has Zinc, so it leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating on the surface to prevent flash rusting.  I have seen people use this and store a bare metal panel in a controlled environment for over a year with no flash rust.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-after-blast.html

If you feel you want to mechanically remove as much as possible first, this is an excellent tool from eastwood.
https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-vid...a-corvair/ 


Still your best bet is to coat any body panels you clean with epoxy primer.

You can do the painting at home no problem, you just need the proper equipment.  The biggest issue is getting the air dry enough.  This time of year is the best time to paint.  The air is fairly dry and you will just need a decent desiccant dryer and trap.

If you just want to seal the panel to prevent further rusting and don't intend to start body work any time soon, you can use the eastwood 2k rattle can epoxy primer.
https://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-aerosol-e...26898.html
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#10
I will say this. The molasses method works extremely well and is cheap. I buy the jugs of feed grade molasses at the local tractor supply store for around $8/gallon. The downfall is as stated,

1. you have a large container full of molasses.
2. it can start to smell pretty ripe after a while, especially if it is warm out.
3. it is kind of messy but not too bad.
4. if outside and you have wildlife they will be attracted to it. Bears, coons, etc.

on the plus side it is 100% environmentally friendly.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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