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Hot Start Issue
#41
there was no reason to remove the distributor.

keep turning the carb needle counterclockwise until gas comes out the inspection hole.

no you should not have 12 volts to the coil unless the orig wire has been bypassed.

shade the engine compartment

turn the key to run position

remove the center coil wire from the distributor

hold the end 1/4" away from a carb nut

jump the two front solenoid posts together . this will engage the starter.

see if it has a big yellow spark or pale blue one . either is good . a weak yellow spark is not good.
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#42
Thanks for the suggestions Don and Barnett.....Yes I do have a factory tach. As for removing the dist. I just wanted to make sure everything was "correct" and nothing was overlooked.

As far as adjusting the float levels, since it seems so far off how to I establish a "baseline" to go from. The adjusting nut has the needle nearly all the way down (clockwise). Should I remove the needle and then thread back in 1-2 turns and start from there?

I've established there IS spark. As I was just looking at voltage across the coil (+ and - terminals) I had thought this should read 9 or 12 volts when cranking. Tested the spark and it is a nice strong yellow spark, so am good to go there.......another item off the list.

Sorry guys, it takes me a bit longer than you all to get things "correct" am a bit slow....
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#43
no prob, you will get it.

turn the adjuster nut COUNTER CLOCKWISE until gas comes out the inspection hole . do NOT do this while it is running . the top of the brass needle valve may be almost flush with the top of the nut by the time gas comes out . you must do the adjustment to both the front and rear float.
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#44
Ok Barnett will most likely get to this tomorrow. Just wanted to make sure I have things straight as the Holley float videos show doing this WHILE the engine is running.....that I wasn't too comfortable with.

So I should:

1.) remove coil to dist. wire and crank engine over 10 seconds to fill bowls
2.) remove inspection screw and look to see if fuel is just coming out
3.) If fuel is not coming out, adjust screw 1/2-3/4 turn countercolckwise
4.) Replace inspection screw and crank engine over again
5.) repeat process 1-3 above until fuel comes out inspection screw area

Am I right with this method?
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#45
i would start the engine and let it run for 10 seconds then follow your list . make 1/2 turns to start with.

you "can" do it with the engine running and i do it that way but you need to be experienced and the gas can squirt out past the nut when you loosen the screw if you dont do it right.
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#46
Well the MACH is currently not starting right now so is it possible to just use the cranking method to fill the bowls and then go from there??
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#47
I've been away a few days, so forgive me if I am off base, but even though you are sure you were on top dead center, are you positive that you have your number 1 wire starting in the right location and that you have gone in the correct direction around the cap for the firing order?

I can never keep it straight in my head, so I print it out and put it in place when working on firing order on any car.

Fuel is important, but if your aren't getting spark at the right time and in the right place all the carb adjustments in the world won't fix it.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#48
Thanks Jeff,

Did the same thing you do, printed it out and checked 3 times now.... Smile good to go for firing order...
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