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Hooker headers - super comp to comp swap
#1
The tri-power manifold required a swap to 4v heads and exhaust. I was running a 2v Edelbrock performer and some hooker super comp headers. The swap over was a few years back, I don't have any pictures. I had spent so much money on the manifold, the carbs, the heads and such that I 'jumped' at an ebay auction for some used 4v Cleveland Hooker super comp headers. I ran with that for years.

Never buy used headers off of Ebay. The picture looked good but they had been smacked a few times and the fresh coat of paint was good enough to hide in pictures but not in real life. Still, I didn't have the funds to 'do it right' so I slapped them on.

Then a week or so ago I managed to have a stupid moment pulling into a gas station. As I turned left across traffic the bay I had in mind became occupied. I adjusted my course at the last moment but didn't see the curb sticking out. SMACK. I ran over the peninsula and hit the headers HARD. This is no surprise, the 4v super comp headers didn't have much ground clearance. Heck, any speed bump or higher speed dip and it seemed like I would smack them.

The good news is between the headers and the subframe connections I managed to avoid any body damage at all.

Now for some pics:

First the ugly. Here is what a header pipe is NOT supposed to look like:
[Image: P1010296.jpg]

Here is a shot of the slider bars.. um, I mean sub frame connector. I have a jeep I four wheel with some slider bars, they work great! I never expected the subframe connectors to double up as sliders but, goodness, it saved the floor pans and rockers and such:

[Image: P1010297.jpg]

Another pic of the header. Horrifying I know...

[Image: P1010298.jpg]

No damage! Sweet! I had spend a small fortune on some NOS rocker moldings years before they were available aftermarket. Add to that some rocker/fender damage I would have been out a 'not so cool' grand or two.

[Image: P1010300.jpg]

'The worlds best header to the rescue!'
[Image: P1010303.jpg]


They were packed great. Really nice job. I have pics but no need to post them.

Let's just jump in and look at the difference between the 4v super comp and the 4v comp

[Image: P1010322.jpg]

The comp are shorter and not 'tuned'. That means each pipe is not 'exactly' the same length. You will notice they don't take the same path to the collector either.

The tubes are different sizes. 2 inches on the super com, 1 3/4 on the comps.
[Image: P1010329.jpg]

The super comps really push the outside limits of the port. I had issues getting them to seal and ended up using genuine hooker gaskets. With the smaller pipe size this may not be an issue with the regular comps.

[Image: P1010330.jpg]

This shot makes it a lot more obvious. You can see the difference between the bolt hole and the primary tube.

[Image: P1010331.jpg]

Installed you can see the difference in length. The exhaust pipe is hanging down a little but you can see the comps sit a little higher and are quite a bit shorter than the super comps.

[Image: P1010334.jpg]

Here is a picture from the drivers side. The lowest part of the header cleared the ground by just 4 inches.
[Image: P1010340.jpg]

I have to take another pic with the new headers. Individual results will vary depending on tire/springs. Wink

The tubes themselves sit about 5" above the groun with the super comps. No wonder I smacked them!

[Image: P1010345.jpg]

You need a lot more ground clearance for the installation/removal of the super comps than you do for the comps. passenger side is easy but the driver side is a little tricky with the steering stuff in the way. This gives you an idea of how far I jacked it up to get the super comps out. The comps slipped right in no issues.

[Image: P1010347.jpg]

Yep, that's a pair of blue jeans I used to protect the new headers. Worked pretty good.

It seemed like it was leaning more that the picture shows.
[Image: P1010349.jpg]

I did learn the trick to jack up the rear axle and get that side off the ground. This puts less strain on the frame jack point. I did it in 'stages'. Rear/body/rear/body/rear/body/rear/body. Same thing letting it down. Took more time but I think it was better overall for my 40 year old car.

Here is the new header installed. Pretty!

[Image: P1010357.jpg]

This will be what I think is my 4th header set. My first were a used set that didn't have a common flange, the second were some super comps for 2v that I had modified to clear the c6 (I don't think this was necessary now but it did allow for removing the tranny without disconnecting the headers). The 3rd set were the ebay super comps for 4v. They were a little rough to start with but I was trying to save money. I now finally have a beautiful set of ceramic coated headers. I will do some more measurements on ground clearance tomorrow.

Both the super comp and the comp headers cleared the c6 tranny. The passenger side of the comp headers is close but it makes it. I think removal of the tranny is not an issue with the super comps. It might be necessary to remove at least one side of the headers to get the c6 out. Anyone have experience with this?

I did a write up on the stage 8 header bolts. Well worth the effort:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-stage-8-header-bolts

I know this was long. Thanks for reading it. I hope it helps out at least one other member considering/installing hookers.

Keyword search: 6915 6211

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#2
Great write-up. Easy to read and follow along.

Thanks for taking the time.
  Reply
#3
Steven Harris;100506 Wrote:Great write-up. Easy to read and follow along.

Thanks for taking the time.

+1 My Supercomps saved the underside after a mishap backing into a friend's garage before installing the rest of the exhaust.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#4
So which is better Comps or Super Comps?

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
73 F-code Convertible, Planned: color TBD/Black top/White Int., 351C, 5-spd, 3L50.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
#5
Don65Stang;100574 Wrote:So which is better Comps or Super Comps?

Good question! I will get another ground clearance shot with the new headers. I will also report on if it 'feels' different. Up to this morning I was running open headers. It seemed faster but it was probably more the noise factor. Open headers are very very very loud.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#6
Mine were the Hooker Comps 6921 which cost me $229.71. Running them completely open they turned heads and really made me smile. Cool

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#7
73vertproject;100606 Wrote:Mine were the Hooker Comps 6921 which cost me $229.71. Running them completely open they turned heads and really made me smile. Cool

yeah, the looks I got in the neighborhood were pretty funny. I set off several car alarms.

First impression is good. Seems a little more torquey. But I also had them put in a equilizer bar (h pipe). What a difference at the tail pipe that makes. No more phat phat sounds at idle. Smooth. Seems quieter too. That might be the thicker pipes, the ceramic coating, the h pipe or a combo of all three.

It's not running 100 percent. I have to check the plugs, too much gas smell. Maybe a crossfire or a loose plug or ?? Still hauls butt. Wink

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#8
Looks to me like the smaller ones are for the 2V heads. I have the regular Hooker headers on my 4V and they are 1 3/4". The openings are still larger than the ones you are showing. I hope you did not buy the wrong ones Huh The exhaust ports on your 4V heads are bigger than the size of the opening on those headers, I would think that would be a big flow problem, and choke off performance.Sad

1973 Mach 1 Q code, 4 speed toploader w/3.70 traction lock
Freshly rebuilt with boss closed chambered heads, flat top pistons, adjustable roller rockers, Erson flat tappet cam, ARP bolts thru out, 10/10 crank, port plates, edelbrock performer intake, Holley 4160 750cfm duel feed, Hooker Comp. full length headers, custom h-pipe to dual Hooker mufflers. Specs out to 415 H.P.[quote]In the words of Ricky Bobby, " If you ain't first your last" Ha, Ha, Ha Tongue
  Reply
#9
t.klapperich;100811 Wrote:Looks to me like the smaller ones are for the 2V heads. I have the regular Hooker headers on my 4V and they are 1 3/4". The openings are still larger than the ones you are showing. I hope you did not buy the wrong ones Huh The exhaust ports on your 4V heads are bigger than the size of the opening on those headers, I would think that would be a big flow problem, and choke off performance.Sad

Got this at Clevelands forever:
EXHAUST NOTE: Rule of thumb, primary tube ID=exhaust valve diameter + 10%. Ex. 1.7”X1.10=1.87 or 1 7/8” primary tube header....jim
  Reply
#10
jims72;100869 Wrote:
t.klapperich;100811 Wrote:Looks to me like the smaller ones are for the 2V heads. I have the regular Hooker headers on my 4V and they are 1 3/4". The openings are still larger than the ones you are showing. I hope you did not buy the wrong ones Huh The exhaust ports on your 4V heads are bigger than the size of the opening on those headers, I would think that would be a big flow problem, and choke off performance.Sad

Got this at Clevelands forever:
EXHAUST NOTE: Rule of thumb, primary tube ID=exhaust valve diameter + 10%. Ex. 1.7”X1.10=1.87 or 1 7/8” primary tube header....jim

So if a 2" primary on the super com and 1 3/4" on the comps, then supers are 1/8" too big and comps are 1/8" too small.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
73 F-code Convertible, Planned: color TBD/Black top/White Int., 351C, 5-spd, 3L50.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
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