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Hood lock install
#1
Well I bought them some time back, but the thought of cutting holes in my hood kept me from getting to this project for some time. Well Sunday I decided that it was time to either do it right or mess it up.


First I mounted the brackets. I removed the hood adjusters and the brackets installed in holes that ford equipped the car with. The kit did not include the hardware to mount these brackets, but thankfully I had plenty laying around. Install these brackets loosely as you will need to adjust them later.

The bottom side of the hood has two circular cut outs of about 4 inches. From under the car I looked up with a flashlight and was able to see that the hood cut outs were located appropriately to the brackets.

Using a 3" hole saw from underneath and centered in the opening I drilled the center pilot hole on each side.

I laid newspaper under the hood and closed it and taped over the area to be cut with clear packing tape. Using the hole saw with light pressure and moderate speed I cut both holes with no damage at all to the surrounding paint. I peeled up the tape, used a bit of sandpaper to clean up a few burrs and painted the raw edge of the metal.

Before installing the hood locks, I took a file, chalked the teeth to keep it from loading up and removed some light flashing around the bottom edge to ensure that I would not damage the paint. Actual installation is simple enough with just two screws on a retainer bracket on the back side.

The next parts to install are the "strike plates" these again are held in place with two small screws and should be installed loosely. The provided screws really need larger washers so I headed to the coffee can of hardware and found four likely candidates.

Now comes the tricky part you do have to align everything to get acceptable operation. With everything tightened just snug so it would only move with intentional pressure I crawled under the car and used a flashlight to check alignment.I started with getting it close side to side then tightened the hood adjusters and the upper bolts on the brackets completely. This leaves the striker plates still loose and the lower leg of the bracket still a little loose. Next I repeated the procedure and adjusted the strike plates fore and aft and snugged them down. Now with this adjustment the only remaining adjustment was height. I twisted the locks down, latching them, and measured the amount the locks sat above the "cup" they sit in. I then opened the hood for the umpteenth time, and pushed the bracket down and tightened the final bolt on each side. Again I crawled under the front of the car and inspected alignment of the pins to the strike plates and made some final adjustments.


Some hints

Drilling thru the paint is not a big deal if you r paint is in good condition-juse sensible precautions of taping the paint and using a fresh sharp drill and no more than moderate pressure or speed..

Tape the hood latch in the open position while you are working as you will raise and lower the hood a number of times.

plan for the hardware that does not come with the kits.

The hood pins thread into the lock and lock with 9/16 nuts This does allow you to alter the depth a bit in your install. If a hood pin becomes trapped in the latch somehow and you keep twisting counterclockwise the pin will unscrew. Snug this part down and keep an eye on it, it might require a drop of locktite, but you could end up with a hard to unlock hood if there is ever any misalignment induced by percussive influence.

and I am new here so be nice


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[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
[+] 2 users Like Jeff73Mach1's post
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#2
Jeff73Mach1;66944 Wrote:...and I am new here so be nice...

Wow...is Q bugging the newbies again?

That was an outstanding post.

Is that a new hood, or did that come from the factory?

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
  Reply
#3
Jeff73Mach1;66944 Wrote:The hood pins thread into the lock and lock with 9/16 nuts This does allow you to alter the depth a bit in your install. If a hood pin becomes trapped in the latch somehow and you keep twisting counterclockwise the pin will unscrew. Snug this part down and keep an eye on it, it might require a drop of locktite, but you could end up with a hard to unlock hood if there is ever any misalignment induced by percussive influence.

and I am new here so be nice


Very detailed post, the reason we're all here, very much appreciated. The last portion of your post hit home, I had that happen once and was on the verge of taking a cutting torch to the hood to open it. Since that "incident" I basically super glued the pin to it's correct setting with locktite to insure it didn't twist not allowing me to open it. I know, shade tree mechanic solution but it worked and I can open the hood when I want to open it.

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
  Reply
#4
Jim and Jutta;66950 Wrote:
Jeff73Mach1;66944 Wrote:The hood pins thread into the lock and lock with 9/16 nuts This does allow you to alter the depth a bit in your install. If a hood pin becomes trapped in the latch somehow and you keep twisting counterclockwise the pin will unscrew. Snug this part down and keep an eye on it, it might require a drop of locktite, but you could end up with a hard to unlock hood if there is ever any misalignment induced by percussive influence.

and I am new here so be nice
Very detailed post, the reason we're all here, very much appreciated. The last portion of your post hit home, I had that happen once and was on the verge of taking a cutting torch to the hood to open it. Since that "incident" I basically super glued the pin to it's correct setting with locktite to insure it didn't twist not allowing me to open it. I know, shade tree mechanic solution but it worked and I can open the hood when I want to open it.

2 thumbs up on this. Bet you won't find this information in the owner's manual...but it should be.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#5
Good job.

[Image: 20r9ylt.jpg]
  Reply
#6
Great post and the locks look fantastic.

[Image: 1_14_01_12_10_54_29.png]

Ken

73 Convertible 302-4v-3spd yellow /white int

08 Bullitt 4.6-5 spd black/black int


All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy
  Reply
#7
Wolverine;66946 Wrote:
Jeff73Mach1;66944 Wrote:...and I am new here so be nice...

Wow...is Q bugging the newbies again?

That was an outstanding post.

Is that a new hood, or did that come from the factory?

I believe it to be factory, though I really never looked too close. I am fairly sure the fenders are not though.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#8
Nice work Jeff. Sweet looking car too. I'd like to do that installation at some point.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
  Reply
#9
Great info! Your final result looks great!

Great info! Your final result looks great! I'll give this thread a five star rating!



Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony

Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06


[Image: 20180127_082009.jpg]

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#10
Since this has been discussed a few times lately, I thought I would locate the thread and bring it back up.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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