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Help chosing from disc brake conversion options
#11
Yes pedal is different
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#12
I would also use stock parts on the front for a disc conversion its the best deal for the money also....

As for the rear if your trying to go aftermarket disc brakes I've raced circle track for years now and have used a kit like the one listed below on a 9 inch ford. I put two different kits first one is non e brake and the second one comes with the Ebrake calipers. The rear calipers used are stock 78-81 metric brakes so you can order any brake pads off any trans am from those years, but the rotors are slotted for both the ford 5 on 4-1/2" and chevy 5 on 4-3/4 bolt pattens. The only other thing you should need for a rear disc conversion is the adjustable proportuning valve to balance out your brakes while driving. Just twist the knob one way or another and it will either add or tak away some rear brake to get a more balanced out feeling. Speedway motors also has a knowledgable tech line so any further questions on what works best with what you have they may be able to help you.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-9-Inc...,5336.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-9-Inc...35268.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable...,6160.html
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#13
imusa76;127315 Wrote:
OMS;127139 Wrote:I have a couple of sets
Have a nice set with good rotors
I would consider the booster, M/C and calipers cores for rebuilding or replacement.
Here are some pics

Don,
now with this setup what about the brake pedal, is it different between manual drum, and power disc?


I'm asking because I was thinking next year upgrading the brakes to manual front disc, and I like the Idea of keeping with the Ford parts for the consumable purpose.
I currently have 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

I am curious to this as well, Could I use a manual disc setup as I'd rather have better stoping power without going through all the pedal, M/C, booster stuff.
Could we just swap out the spindles and use the disc hardware and leave everything from the brake line to M/C as is or does the disc NEED power assist to operate?
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#14
matrixx;127326 Wrote:
imusa76;127315 Wrote:
OMS;127139 Wrote:I have a couple of sets
Have a nice set with good rotors
I would consider the booster, M/C and calipers cores for rebuilding or replacement.
Here are some pics

Don,
now with this setup what about the brake pedal, is it different between manual drum, and power disc?


I'm asking because I was thinking next year upgrading the brakes to manual front disc, and I like the Idea of keeping with the Ford parts for the consumable purpose.
I currently have 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

I am curious to this as well, Could I use a manual disc setup as I'd rather have better stoping power without going through all the pedal, M/C, booster stuff.
Could we just swap out the spindles and use the disc hardware and leave everything from the brake line to M/C as is or does the disc NEED power assist to operate?

I am running manual disc brakes on my 71 for a couple years now and they work great. WAY better than the manual drums!! I left everything alone except the spindles and brakes. Hard Lines,MC,prop valve, all the same still and works well. I am even running disc brakes in the rear and havent had any trouble. I do have the pedal assembly, booster and MC to put on one of these winters. Just havent got that far.

Also for cheap rear disc brakes dont forget about the ford 8.8 from an explorer. If you have some fab skills its an easy swap. I got 3.73 gears, posi, and disc brakes all in one shot.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
  Reply
#15
turtle5353;127329 Wrote:
matrixx;127326 Wrote:
imusa76;127315 Wrote:Don,
now with this setup what about the brake pedal, is it different between manual drum, and power disc?


I'm asking because I was thinking next year upgrading the brakes to manual front disc, and I like the Idea of keeping with the Ford parts for the consumable purpose.
I currently have 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

I am curious to this as well, Could I use a manual disc setup as I'd rather have better stoping power without going through all the pedal, M/C, booster stuff.
Could we just swap out the spindles and use the disc hardware and leave everything from the brake line to M/C as is or does the disc NEED power assist to operate?

I am running manual disc brakes on my 71 for a couple years now and they work great. WAY better than the manual drums!! I left everything alone except the spindles and brakes. Hard Lines,MC,prop valve, all the same still and works well. I am even running disc brakes in the rear and havent had any trouble. I do have the pedal assembly, booster and MC to put on one of these winters. Just havent got that far.

Also for cheap rear disc brakes dont forget about the ford 8.8 from an explorer. If you have some fab skills its an easy swap. I got 3.73 gears, posi, and disc brakes all in one shot.

well I have a 95 explorer sitting in back of my dads house with a blown 4.0. Either way thats pretty cool it makes this swap more interesting for me.Smile
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#16
Well your lucky 95 was the first year for rear disc brakes in the explorer if I remember correctly.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
  Reply
#17
Update:

I decided to go with the factory disc brakes, bought a complete setup from OMS. So far I am very happy with this decision. I put in stiffer, lowered springs, a bigger swaybar, new shocks, and new or good take off uppers, lowers and tie rods. I removed everything suspension related from my car and put none of it back on. I haven't done anything with the back end yet except put on the new wheels. I think I want to lower the back a little, but still have some rake to it. I haven't driven it a lot since I put it back together, but I do seem to have one squeak coming from the drivers side. I haven't gotten under it to figure out where it is coming from, but I am suspecting the swaybar bushing on the mount (not the endlink).

So far, I like how it is driving, it feels like a completely different car from before. It was a manual steering car, that has since been converted to power, so now I feel the need to put a smaller steering wheel on it (since now turning is so much more fun).

Here is what it looks like now-

[Image: WP_20130621_004_zps5e2ec779.jpg]
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#18
Looks great!

Jeff T.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers.
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#19
I did it to mine a long time ago. Got all the parts I tthought I needed off a really rusty car. Something I did not think of but needed was the proportioning valve. I dont recall all the details since this was 18 or so years ago but wound up having to weld something to the bit that comes through the firewall to the brake pedal to get it to fit.

I also used the calipers and master sylinder from the donor car as cores for new ones since no idea what shape they were in as well as buying new runner brake hoses and pads.

The last thing I recently learned you can do (but is not reuired for things to work) is replace the rubberish cover on the brake pedal with one that has a metal disc emblem embdded into it to signify the car has disc brakes.
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