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heater hose routing
#11
(12-03-2010, 06:11 PM)machman_73 Wrote: Didn't know if this would help or not. The inboard hose between the heater control valve and firewall should be about 8 inches to clear the valve cover. The one in the pic is 6 inches. What do you need to know exactly. Mark

http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz340...0703-1.jpg
Mark, Thanks for helping. The issue is lots of information that is contradictory. The assembly manual (I've found errors before) shows coolant entering the outboard heater core fitting and returning to the engine from the inboard fitting. But the drawing I have doesn't show a heater control valve (I know there was one on AC cars). It seems to me that the heater control valve should block the flow of coolant entering the heater core. However, I'm almost certain the control valve attaches to the inboard fitting (as in your pic) via short S shaped formed hose. This contradicts the Ford drawing. The other end of that hose goes to the fitting in the block next to the thermostat outlet (supply, I think). The outboard heater core hose connects to the fitting on the water pump (return, I think). I have spent hours trying to sort out what is actually correct. All help appreciated.
Thanks, Chuck
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#12
just remember the direction of coolant doesn't matter as long as the heater control valve stops one side of flow into the core.

the easiest is hooking the right side of the heater core straight to the top fitting on the water pump(putting the heater control valve in between)
then the left side of the heater core to the left side of the water pump

this makes the most sense since the S hose helps clear the back of the motor to allow you to run the heater hose on the left side of the intake between the carb and the heat riser.

also the vacuum line from 71-72 coming out of the dash is short so it makes sense to put the control valve on the right side.

the picture posted is a 73, 73 has that vacuum tree on the cowl area because it needed to feed the EGR valve. and to clean up the look of the manifold a little.
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#13
(12-08-2010, 10:40 AM)72HCODE Wrote: just remember the direction of coolant doesn't matter as long as the heater control valve stops one side of flow into the core.

the easiest is hooking the right side of the heater core straight to the top fitting on the water pump(putting the heater control valve in between)
then the left side of the heater core to the left side of the water pump

this makes the most sense since the S hose helps clear the back of the motor to allow you to run the heater hose on the left side of the intake between the carb and the heat riser.

also the vacuum line from 71-72 coming out of the dash is short so it makes sense to put the control valve on the right side.

the picture posted is a 73, 73 has that vacuum tree on the cowl area because it needed to feed the EGR valve. and to clean up the look of the manifold a little.
That is how I decided to route the hoses for the reasons you stated. I appreciate your help.

Thanks, Chuck
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#14
This is a GREAT thread for routing heater hoses on a 72 351 Q code car with air!!!

Thanks!

Ray

1971 Boss 351  
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 
1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 
1973 Mach 1 (parts car)
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#15
Here are a pics of my 73 351C factory air car. You can see the route and the heater valve on the hose with the "S" tube. What you can't see in the pic is that the hoses are strapped to the shock tower to ensure the clear the engine.

[Image: 48_20170323_143626.jpg]

Also, my 73 came with an "H" tube which I did not reinstall. It was used to provide a port for a PVS vacuum valve. The "H" tube was inserted/installed just after the heater hoses passed the oil dip stick.

[Image: 20160326_102201.jpg]

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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#16
(09-02-2018, 10:07 AM)rackerm Wrote: Here are a pics of my 73 351C factory air car. You can see the route and the heater valve on the hose with the "S" tube. What you can't see in the pic is that the hoses are strapped to the shock tower to ensure the clear the engine.

[Image: 48_20170323_143626.jpg]

Also, my 73 came with an "H" tube which I did not reinstall. It was used to provide a port for a PVS vacuum valve. The "H" tube was inserted/installed just after the heater hoses passed the oil dip stick.

[Image: 20160326_102201.jpg]

Racherm what was the  purpose of the H tube. My 73 Q code had the same fitting and it starting leaking right after I bought the car 6 years ago so I removed it.



John J
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#17
(09-02-2018, 01:01 PM)John J Wrote:
(09-02-2018, 10:07 AM)rackerm Wrote: Here are a pics of my 73 351C factory air car. You can see the route and the heater valve on the hose with the "S" tube. What you can't see in the pic is that the hoses are strapped to the shock tower to ensure the clear the engine.

[Image: 48_20170323_143626.jpg]

Also, my 73 came with an "H" tube which I did not reinstall. It was used to provide a port for a PVS vacuum valve. The "H" tube was inserted/installed just after the heater hoses passed the oil dip stick.

[Image: 20160326_102201.jpg]

Racherm what was the  purpose of the H tube. My 73 Q code had the same fitting and it starting leaking right after I bought the car 6 years ago so I removed it.



John J

I believe it was needed to add a heat sensite port. Three ports were needed for the temp sender, the two port pvs and three port pvs vacuum valves. The temp sender and one pvs valve were installed in the two ports at/in the water pump. The "H" tube provided the third. Altgough not factory correct, I eliminated the "H" tube as well and used a cast iron
[Image: 20170313_141739.jpg]


[Image: 20170313_163556_1.jpg]



thermostat housing with a port instead. The pics below show the location of the temp sender and the two PVS valves.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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