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heater hose connector on engine block needs replacing
#1
My 351C has a heater hose connector on the engine block. It's probably pressed in. It has developed a hole in the side of it. I can just get the hose clamp on below it, so no leaks, but it's overall condition is marginal and I need to replace it.

How do I get the old one out?
Are new ones available?
SHould I just tap it and put a screwed in connector?

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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#2
will e;126030 Wrote:My 351C has a heater hose connector on the engine block. It's probably pressed in. It has developed a hole in the side of it. I can just get the hose clamp on below it, so no leaks, but it's overall condition is marginal and I need to replace it.

How do I get the old one out?
Are new ones available?
SHould I just tap it and put a screwed in connector?

You have to collapse the old tube inside the hole a little then yank it out with vise grips.

I tapped mine for a 3/8" NPT x 5/8" hose fitting. The hole is already the correct size for the tap.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#3
I just did the tap thing too. Must be an NPT tap and the tap cuts out the old sleeve. Have one of those magnets on a the end of a pointer for picking up parts. Gets the shavings out of the block.

[Image: 28iw51u.png]
"I prayed to God he would change Johnny but his plan was to change me"

Gene Stallings
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#4
My understanding is they sell a replacement pressed in fitting at NAPA.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#5
I already have the correct tap so I will probably go that route then.

If I go pressed, how do you get the new one pressed in? Do you tap it in with a hammer or ??

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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#6
they make both the press fit and the threaded version.

man its been years i have a cleveland book , you collapse the old one like tommyk said then the new one gets tapped in with a mallet or use a piece of wood on top and hammer it down, but i seem to remember you are suppose to use some sealant on the upper part before you hammer it completely into the block.
it was almost like machinist threadlock for when you press fit gears, maybe it was red threadlock i have to find the book about it buried in my car stuff.
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#7
will e;126156 Wrote:I already have the correct tap so I will probably go that route then.

If I go pressed, how do you get the new one pressed in? Do you tap it in with a hammer or ??

Put the fitting in the freezer. Heat the block with a torch. Put some type of sealant on the fitting to act as a lubricant. Place an appropriately sized socket over top if the fitting and drive it home with a dead blow hammer. But be quick!

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#8
Well, I got the old one 'mostly out'. It basically broke apart as I tried to use vice grips/channel locks. I started with the tap and that took some of the top part out. Now I am tapped about 1/4 inch down or so and the rest of the original fittig is still in the block. It spins, so it isn't 'stuck' but I can't get it to come out. I am cautious with the tap, if I 'force it' I might strip the threads I have already created.

Oh well, haven't screwed it up yet, so that's a victory. I am going to go get some mexican food and go back at it tomorrow. If you have a good idea on how to get the rest out, post up!

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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#9
did mine today just put sealant on it drove it in with the socket and a hammer

[Image: 2w6ugt2.png]
Brad Smith
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#10
will e;127617 Wrote:Well, I got the old one 'mostly out'. It basically broke apart as I tried to use vice grips/channel locks. I started with the tap and that took some of the top part out. Now I am tapped about 1/4 inch down or so and the rest of the original fittig is still in the block. It spins, so it isn't 'stuck' but I can't get it to come out. I am cautious with the tap, if I 'force it' I might strip the threads I have already created.

Oh well, haven't screwed it up yet, so that's a victory. I am going to go get some mexican food and go back at it tomorrow. If you have a good idea on how to get the rest out, post up!

You need to drive something between what is left of the tube and the block like a thin straight screw driver or a carpenter's awl and pry it toward the center to collapse it so it will come out.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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