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Heater Core Replacement
#1
I've got to get some heat in this girl before winter time
I got the car with heater core bypassed and assume it leaks!

Some are saying the cheaper aluminum cores poop out quickly?

Some say you need to remove the dash-pad to get the heater box out easily?

I will remove the passenger seat and get the gasket kit for the box when the time comes etc.

what about a heater control valve?

What about a heater hose restrictor bung that stops the hammering of the core on start up?

Has anyone been through this?

Thanks
Paul
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#2
Did your car come with factory air? if so it is a bit more involved.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - edelbrock rpm fuel pump - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 3.50 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#3
yes I have an a/c car but the pump and all the bits are long gone.
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#4
There has been previous discussion on changing a heater core in a 71 - 73 mustang with AC. Best method is to totally pull the dash (should take maybe 45 minutes if you take your time).
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#5
When I did mine I just loosened the dash bolts so that it would pull back easily and removed the heater/AC box. It looks complicated but was really simple to do. Good luck on the project. Be careful when removing the clips, those boxes are pretty brittle from the age.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#6
When I installed my center console gauges I had all the screws out up under the
dash pad and the pad was loose in the front but when i tried to pull it toward me
and out it wouldn't budge?

Should I have yanked on it harder?
Are there clips on the windshield side that are super tight?

I read the other core posts but still have questions about
Copper vs aluminum

Thanks

73 Grandé
351C 2v
Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5


Gasoline is for washing parts.
Alcohol is for drinking.
Nitomethane is for racing!



Work in Progress photos here:
Last Update: 4/23/16

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/theroc...t=3&page=1






















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#7
rocket366;194516 Wrote:When I installed my center console gauges I had all the screws out up under the
dash pad and the pad was loose in the front but when i tried to pull it toward me
and out it wouldn't budge?

Should I have yanked on it harder?
Are there clips on the windshield side that are super tight?

I read the other core posts but still have questions about
Copper vs aluminum

Thanks

There are actually 2 screws that need to be removed from the top of that assembly. The metal part of that assembly has 2 machine screws that are close to the windshield so you'll need a right angle Phillips screwdriver to remove it.

I would go with the copper core.
thx

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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