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OK, everybody has got me scared to run my heads with multi-groove valves. The valves are aftermarket replacements and I confirmed the exhaust valve is stainless. My other issue is figuring out valve-train geometry with pedestal mount rockers, nobody seems to agree how to do this. I had the heads shaved .023 and the block zero decked and running a hydraulic cam, so figuring correct pushrod length, and pedestal shims, etc seems like a nightmare!! SSOOO, I might want to switch gears, get the heads milled and tapped for studs, and might take the heads back in for valve replacement. My questions are.....Which studs do I need? Do I need push rod guide plates? My original valve guides are intact and tight, do I need bronze bushings for stainless valves? I know I want to DRIVE this car, and I have put a ton of work into this thing, I guess I'll sleep better KNOWING the top end is strong!
These or equivalents from ARP, Pioneer, etc.. http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/par...Field=2871
Yes, you'll need guide plates and hardened pushrods. Chuck
You don't need bronze valve guides, but they wear much longer than the cast iron. It's easier, and cheaper in the long run, to have them replaced now rather than later when they get worn.

Also, if you haven't already had hardened exhaust valve seats installed, now is a good time to do it.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
if you buy new valves you can buy ones with undercut stems to increase air flow . . alexes parts has them cheap.
I used the Alex's valves and they are nice quality.

I wouldn't waste the money on hardened valve seats-the chances of cutting into a water jacket is too great and the need is overstated

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
Cool, Thanks Gents. I'll keep you posted!!
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